Orinda Plumber - How to Unclog Your Shower Drain

Your shower drain will go worn out time by time due to daily use as well as the attack of weather. It will be slower than ever time by time. It drains not smoothly anymore and will just annoy you. If one day you find your shower completely stops draining, then it may be clogged. The cause can be various, started from scum of soap, hair, or metal things which fell off into the shower. Fortunately, unclogging your shower drain is one of the easiest plumbing projects ever. Here below are the things related to the topic of how to unclog shower drain. Keep reading for details.

You will need to first get the drain plug removed to check it out. The type of the shower will define the way of how to remove it, read the manual which comes with the shower package. For the tools which must be prepared, a screwdriver should be enough.

After the first step done, and you can see clearly inside the pipe/ shower, and you find something which makes the shower clogged, get it removed soon. It can be hair, debris, ,scum of soap or anything. By doing this shall make your shower work properly again.

If the second step did not make the shower work back properly, then you will need to do another way. It seems that the problem is way deeper inside the pipe and unseen. To check it, use metal wire, and get it inside the pipe and if there is something which block the shower, you will know it. After you are sure where the thing is, get it flushed using hard pressure of water.

This time I am sure that your shower has been back to its normal condition. But if you find the problem remains, then you will need to make a call for plumbers.

source: http://www.vizimac.com/how-to-unclog-shower-drain/
by Stewart

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Location of Your Shower Drain - Guaranteed Plumbing Danville

There is flexibility in where one locates the drain for the shower. Most shower stalls, certainly the more modern stalls are made in such a way that the floor of the stall has a slight concave allowing for a uniform drainage of water toward the middle. But even with a flat shower stall flooring, the location of the drain would be servicable whether it was located in the front, middle, or end.

Your tub to shower conversion sounds like you are making use of the existing shower and the location of the drain may very well have been satisfactory in any number of places. I know of no plumbing code that requires a shower drain to be located in the middle, though in a standing shower stall, that is almost always the preferred location. The ideal location is often a matter of practicality. In matters of plumbing, a good dose of common sense often prevails. The plumber in this situation should have ensured that he complied with your instructions. While the location of the shower drain may not have been to your specifications, ask yourself whether it is worth stressing out about. There is a certain symetry and as explained above, often a practical reason for why a shower drain is located in the center.

source: http://www.plumbingqa.com/location-of-shower-drain-plumbing-question-451/

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Orinda Plumber - 2 Common Air Admittance Valve Problems - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville, CA

2 Common Air Admittance Valve Problems

 

An air admittance valve is a valve that is completely pressure activated. It is for one way mechanical vents that are used in a plumbing system. It will totally eliminate the need for a conventional roof and pipe venting penetration. When there is a charge of water waste the air admittance valve will open and release the vacuum. This will allow all of the air to enter the vent pipe for your plumbing and will give you the proper type of drainage. It is important that you know all of the things that could go wrong so that you can keep your air admittance valve working for as long as possible.

Common Problems

Although air admittance valves are tested for their durability against rodents, sometimes they cannot persevere. Holes can sometimes still be chewed through if the area is overrun with varmint. If you happen to notice that your air admittance valve is acting like it is not sucking up what it should, then you may have a hole or two on your hands.
Sometimes you may find that even with an air admittance valve, there are still clogs and a sewer odor. While this is rare, it is possible. Remember that these valves should last anywhere from 20 to 30 years so if they are only lasting for a couple of years, then there may be some problems.

Common Solutions

Your best bet when it comes to holes in your valve is to go to the root of the problem. Get an exterminator if you need as rodents can be a large problem for issues like this. If you feel like you can handle the pest control problem yourself then give it a try, but you still may want to keep an exterminator’s number handy just in case. As for fixing the holes, you are going to be better off getting a new valve, just be sure your pest control problem is under control before you do.
If you have had the unfortunate experience of the rare occasion of an air admittance valve not doing its job, then you are probably pretty frustrated. Because this is a rarity, be sure to keep your receipt and take it back as soon as you see that it is not working. Make sure that the air admittance valve is not itself clogged as that can sometimes be an issue. If there are no clogs and everything seems to be free and clear, then return it immediately.

Overview

When it comes to an air admittance valve, there really are not that many problems that you will be running into. You will be pleasantly surprised more often than not, that they are great tools that will help to prevent clogs. They are also great at keeping that sewer stench out of your home. If you do happen to run into problems and do not know what to do, call a professional, they will be able to diagnose the problem and fix it for you quickly as well as safely.


By DoItYourself Staff
source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/2-common-air-admittance-valve-problems

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Leaking Hot Water Units - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville, CA

Leaking Hot Water Units

Warranties on hot water sytems vary depending on what system you have - the actual hot water cylinder itself will have a warranty of somewhere between five to ten years. Warranties on the electrics (thermostat and element) and valves (pressure relief, duo valve, etc) are only 12 months. These are manufacturers warranties and apply to all systems.

Having said that, the average life of a hot water unit is around 12 years although we have replaced systems that were more than 30 years old. It is a sad fact of life that sooner or later your unit will begin to leak from somewhere and the following gives you an idea of what it could be and what you can do about it.

There can be nothing more distressing than a leaking hot water unit, particularly if the unit is located inside the home. There are only a limited number of places that a hot water unit can leak from. The pressure and temperature relief valve (ptr valve) is located near the top and to one side of your hot water unit and will have a small lever on it. This lever should be gently lifted every six months or so to flush the valve free of accumulated debris. Be careful when you do this as hot water will come out of the relief line under pressure - keep your valuable body parts out of the way!

After 10 seconds or so, gently let the lever back down and the flow should stop. The relief valve is designed to leak small amounts of water particularly on the heating cycle (after someone has had a shower for example) to stop the excessive build up of pressure inside the hot water unit itself. These valves do eventually wear out and will need to be replaced. If you notice water running from the relief line on a continual basis the valve needs to be replaced. The longer you let it run the higher your electricity bill is going to be as the unit is constantly heating water even though you are not using it - hot water is running out the relief line on and cold water is coming in to the bottom of the tank to be heated continually.

The second place a hot water unit can leak from is the element gasket. The element will be near the bottom of the hot water unit where the electrical wires enter and is covered by a box or plate. The element has a rubber gasket around it where it penetrates the tank itself and these do perish over time causing leakage. Obviously, leaks from this area should be treated as a matter of some urgency due to the close proximity of the leak to the electrical supply. Do not, under any circumstances try to fix this yourself - water and electricicy do not mix and can make your hair curly. The unit usually needs to be drained and the element removed to allow replacement of the gasket. Sometimes the are where the element bolts on to the tank is too corroded to allow the bolts to be tightened up enough to allow the new element gasket to get an effective seal. If this is the case the hot water unit will require replacement as there is no repair available for this problem. Always use a qualified tradesman when dealing with any aspect of your electricity system and supply - it simply isn't worth risking your life for the sake of a few dollars.

The third place the unit can leak is from the cylinder itself. In the great majority of cases a leaking hot water cylinder means the unit is beyond repair and will require replacement. If you think your unit requires replacement don't hesitate to give us a call on (07) 5530 6333 for a competitive replacement quotation and fast service. This truly is one situation where we want to see you back in hot water as soon as possible!

 

source: http://www.theplumbingdr.com.au/welcome/page4.php

Alamo Plumber - The Facts on Faucets - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

 

Three signs that your old bath faucets are treading water: Their finish is dull or pitted. They still drip even after you repair them. Or, their style looks dated with the bath remodel you're planning. If that describes your faucets, get ready for a sea of replacement options. Stores are filled with quality $100 lav faucets with five-year warranties and others that take care of the needs of older users, tub faucets tough enough for a house full of teens and multihead shower walls that make you feel like you just stepped under a tropical waterfall. Making things tougher is that you'll also find poor-quality pretenders that glitter as brightly as top-of-the-line models. Picking a style you like is the easy part of buying a new faucet. The harder questions are: What material and finish were used in the faucet you like? Will they last and still be easy to clean? If there is a problem, how difficult and expensive are repairs? In other words, which faucet will give you the style and service for what you want to spend?

TESTING THEIR METALS
Aside from style and features, what separates good lav, tub or shower faucets from the not-so-good is the material they're made of. Start by checking out the body, which encompasses the spout and controls. Solid-brass bodies last longest and require the least care, especially with hard water, which corrodes lesser metals. At $150 or so to start, these faucets also cost the most. If you aren't sure whether a fitting is solid brass, pick it up. It should feel heavier than other units. Often, the box will read "all-brass body" versus "ZMACK" for brass- or chrome-plated fittings. Faucets with die-cast zinc-alloy bodies cost less (typically starting at about $70) and deliver good durability. Zinc is the metal beneath most brass- and chrome-plated fittings. Because zinc corrodes when it contacts water, these faucets must be replaced when the plating wears off. Stay away from low-end faucets with plastic bodies. Though their $50 entry price might be appealing, plastic simply doesn't hold up. Finish is another crucial choice that determines not only how a faucet looks but also how easy it is to maintain. An electroplated chrome finish on a brass or zinc faucet looks good and lasts. If you opt for the warmth of natural brass, you'll avoid frequent cleanings with one of the proprietary lifetime finishes that block out oxidation. Examples of these finishes include Delta Brilliance, Moen LifeShine and Jado Diamond. Pewter, nickel and satin finishes are also easy to maintain. Their muted tones hide water spots, scratches and fingerprints. They also match door and cabinet handles more easily than brass. Chrome and combination chrome-and-brass finishes are popular for baths but require frequent cleaning to maintain their shine. With a spectrum of colors available, going with painted or enamel finishes is the easiest way to individualize a faucet and coordinate it with the rest of the bath. But because most of these finishes aren't bonded to the metal like plating, they chip and scratch relatively easily. Save them for less-used powder rooms and guest baths.

PICKING A LAV FAUCET
If you're replacing only the faucets and not the sink, you have to know which size unit to buy. Start by removing the existing faucet and measuring the distance, or spread, between the holes in the lavatory. Small lavs often have three holes that span 4 in.; they accommodate faucets that consist of a spout and separate handles connected by an escutcheon plate. Your new faucet must be configured the same way. The same holds for single-handle faucets and some two-handle units mounted in a single hole. Lavs with holes 6-, 8- or 12-in. spreads have separate handles and offer more replacement options. Next, consider who will use the faucet; this factor determines the style you choose as well as the inner workings you opt for. How many handles. Look for a single-handle faucet or one with lever handles for older users or anyone who has trouble turning round knobs. Also look for an "ADA Approved" (Americans With Disabilities Act) label. If you opt for round knobs, look for ones with rotational limit stops, which take just a quarter turn to open and close the valve inside. Small children have different needs. "When children step up to the sink, they usually reach for one handle or the other. You hope it's the cold one," says Dale Archer, technical service manager for Hansgrohe, a Cumming, Georgia-based faucet manufacturer. The company suggests single-handle faucets for kids; these aren't likely to be in the full-hot position. You can also find single-handle models that let you adjust the flow mechanism to limit the amount of hot water available. What kind of valve. Control valves open and close water flow inside the faucet body when you move a handle or twist a knob. There are four kinds, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Traditional two-handle faucets use compression valves, which control water flow with a rubber washer. Hard water and overtightening wear the washer, eventually causing leaks. However, the valve is easy to access, while washers cost only pennies to replace. Sleeve-cartridge valves are used in one- and two-handle faucets. Because all the working parts are contained in a single unit that lifts out quickly, sleeve-cartridge valves are easiest to repair. Each company has a different sleeve design, so be sure the replacement parts match your faucet. Replacements cost $10 to $20. Choose brass cartridges over plastic, if possible. Ball valves are exclusive to single-handle faucets. Introduced by Delta in 1954, they use a slotted-metal or plastic ball and spring-loaded seals to control flow. These systems are very durable and inexpensive to repair. But their many small parts make assembly difficult. Stick with metal ball valves and replacement kits (about $10), which hold up better than plastic ball valves. Ceramic-disk valves are considered the best by many experts. A two-part revolving disk turns water on and off depending on the alignment of its ports. Replacing the self-contained disk is fast and easy (about $15 to $20). And because the disk is impervious to sand and sediment, this is the system to choose if your water has lots of either. If impurities aren't a problem, other systems should be fine. Whichever control valve you consider, check the warranty. It's a good indication of how long the manufacturer expects the valve to last.

TUB AND SHOWER UNITS
To avoid extensive work on your shower wall, choose a new shower faucet with the same basic layout. Stick with a single- or double-handle faucet if that's what you have. The same goes for tubs, including antique or antique-style claw-foot units. Some have faucet holes drilled into the porcelain 3 5/8 in. apart, an unusual spread. Kohler and American Standard make faucets to fit this oddball size. Styles. The type of tub you have will determine which style faucet to select. If the tub is surrounded by a ceramic-tile platform, the spout and handles can be mounted on the platform. Rim-mounted faucets are installed through holes predrilled in the tub. Both configurations work when the tub and shower are separate. Wall-mounted faucets are the most common when the tub and shower are combined. They also offer the option of single-handle controls. Most showerheads provide a variety of spray options. If you don't like the height of your present showerhead, consider a handheld model. They're perfect for rinsing hair and cleaning the shower or tub. When not held, the head can be mounted on a bracket or on the shower arm like a conventional head. Many manufacturers also offer heads that slide on a pole to adjust for tall and short users. Using multiple showerheads in the bath is a growing trend. Separate jets molded into a shower wall wash your entire body at once. Each showerhead typically costs between $10 and $20. But because each head requires valves and piping to deliver the water, installing these systems requires extra in-the-wall plumbing - at a steep price. You'll also need to check water restrictions in your area before replumbing your shower. Temperature control. Most of us have experienced a hot or cold "shock" when someone flushes a toilet while we shower. Shower faucets with pressure-balance valves prevent this shock; the valve senses a sudden drop in hot or cold pressure and reduces pressure on the other side to keep water temperature from varying more than 2° or 3°F. Thermostatic valves accomplish the same thing by sensing changes in temperature. Until recently, scald protection was available only in single-handle faucets. The new Monitor II from Delta is the first two-handle faucet that offers it. Many communities have "scald codes" that require scald protection in all new construction. Even if your town doesn't have this requirement, antiscald protection is vital for children and older adults. Shower faucets with scald protection usually start at around $150. Heat memory is another shower option worth considering. Some are electronic, but most keep the handle in position when you turn off the water, allowing you to maintain the heat setting you had when you last shut them off.

 

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214006-5,00.html

by JHERI FLEET

San Ramon Plumber - Making Your Shower Safer - Guaranteed Plumibing Co Danville

Antiscald valves installed in tubs and showers maintain safe water temperatures

photo by Merle Henkenius

 

You're in the shower, doing your best imitation of a Top-40 pop star. Suddenly that warm, relaxing shower turns too hot to handle, causing you to jump back to avoid the scorching water. The cause? Someone in the house has flushed a toilet. If the situation sounds familiar, then you need to install a pressure-balance valve in your shower. These pressure-balancing devices prevent "shower shock" by automatically adjusting for temperature fluctuations whenever water?cold or hot?is diverted from the tub or shower, such as when someone starts up a load of laundry or flushes a toilet. Even in an instance when the water pressure drops drastically, a pressure-balance valve ensures that the water temperature doesn't change by more than 3° F. Antiscald devices have been required in hospitals and nursing homes for decades. Now, 31 states have enacted, or will do so soon, legislation requiring pressure-balance valves in all residential remodeling and new-construction projects. Antiscald devices are a wise investment. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, each year some 200,000 Americans suffer injuries caused by sudden changes in water temperature while they're bathing. Everyone is in danger of getting scalded or falling as they try to escape the hot water, but young children, the elderly and the physically challenged suffer the most injuries. BALANCING ACT

Until recently, single-handle pressure-balance valves were the only models available; these are fine when replacing a single-handle inner valve or for a full-scale remodel, but they're not very well suited to changing over an existing two-handle faucet. To hide the empty handle holes, you have to install an enormous trim plate, which isn't particularly attractive. For that reason, we chose the Delta Monitor II (about $260), the first two-handle pressure-balance valve. But, unlike a standard two-handle faucet, which has separate hot- and cold-water handles, the right handle of the Monitor II controls water temperature and the left handle controls water volume. It features a polished-chrome-and-brass finish, and includes a matching tub spout and showerhead. For our project, we removed a two-handle, 8-in. centerspread faucet through a hole we cut in the back side of the shower wall. We also enlarged the existing handle holes in the acrylic tub surround with a sabre saw to accommodate the Monitor II. If the walls of your shower are covered with ceramic tile, enlarge the holes using either a rotary tool with a 1/8-in.-dia. carbide bit or a sabre saw with an abrasive-grit blade

Step-by-step Start by removing the existing faucet handles, escutcheons, showerhead and tub spout. Look for a hex-head set screw on the underside of the tub spout. Loosen it with a hex-key wrench and pull the spout straight out. If there is no screw, the spout is threaded on. Cover it with a cloth and twist it off counterclockwise with a pipe wrench (photo 1), or insert a wood plunger handle in the spout itself and turn it counterclockwise. Next, cut an opening in the back side of the plumbing wall with a drywall saw (photo 2); gently pry out the piece and save it. Go from stud to stud (about 141/2 in. wide) and from 6 in. above the faucet handles to 8 in. below the tub spout. Keep in mind that a larger wall opening makes it easier and safer to solder; what's more, it's no more difficult to repair than a smaller opening. Shut off the water to the tub and shower and cut out the old faucet with a hacksaw or miniature tube cutter (photo 3). Next, move around to the tub side of the wall to enlarge the two handle holes (photo 4) for the Monitor II valves. Cut the right-hand hole to 3 1/2 in. dia. and the left-hand hole to 21/4 in. dia., making sure the enlarged holes measure 8 in. from center to center. Threaded inlet and outlet ports on the Monitor II accept 1/2-in. male adapters, which have to be soldered, or sweated, onto copper pipe. But to keep from scorching the neoprene and nylon cartridges inside the valve, solder the adapters onto short pipe lengths, called stubs. Allow the fittings to cool completely and then thread the adapters into the ports. Make all the stubs at least 8 in. long, except the one for the tub spout. It must be cut exactly to length: Set the valve assembly into the wall openings and measure down to the hole for the spout.

Steps 5-8 To establish the exact horizontal length of the supply pipes that protrude from the wall, look at the markings on the black plastic spacers covering the faucet stems. The outer mark should align with the surface of the finished shower wall. Using these marks, cut a length of pipe long enough to leave the threads of a male adapter protruding 3/8 in. from the wall. Solder this assembly together with a male adapter on each end. Wrap the threads of the adapters with Teflon tape and tighten them onto the valve with an adjustable wrench (photo 5). Set the faucet, fitted with pipe stubs, into the wall with the spacers extending through the wall openings. Match the water-supply pipes with the pipe stubs and mark each cut with a pencil. Remove the faucet, and cut the pipes and stubs to fit. Sand each pipe end with emery cloth, then set the faucet back in place. Brush flux onto the pipe ends and solder the connections with couplings and 45- and 90-degree elbows (photo 6). Warning: The flame from the torch can scorch and even set fire to combustible surfaces. You should protect the work area with a double thickness of sheet metal or a flame-shield fabric, which is available at plumbing-supply shops. After soldering the joints, check the marks on the plastic spacers. Reposition the valve assembly, if necessary, then slip a 1 X 2 support block behind the valve pipes (if one isn't already in place) and screw it to the stud at each end. Secure the pipes to the 1 X 2 with copper straps fastened with 1 1/2-in. screws. Finally, turn the water on and check for leaks. To trim out the faucet, begin by removing the black plastic spacers from the control stems. Then thread the tub spout onto its male adapter. Mount the volume trim flange and handle onto the left-hand control stem and connect the temperature trim flange and handle onto the right-hand stem. Now test the valve by turning on the water to its highest temperature setting. If the water feels too hot, turn it off, remove the handle and locate the nylon rotational limit stop on the stem. It's marked with two arrows. Rotate the stop several notches, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions, and replace the handle. Retest the system and readjust the limit stop if necessary. To repair the access hole cut in the wall, screw 1 X 2s between the wall studs, then screw the piece of drywall you removed earlier back in place. Conceal the patch with paper tape and three or four coats of joint compound (photo 7). Finally, on the shower side, apply a thin bead of silicone caulk around both trim plates and the tub spout (photo 8). Allow the silicone to cure overnight before using the tub or shower. You can now shower comfortably knowing that the only shock you might experience is when you actually sing on key.

Source:  http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,218723,00.html
by MERLE HENKENIUS

Plumber San Ramon - Tub Overflow Drain Leak - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

A tub overflow drain can be the cause of a leak even though it is a place not usually suspected. A water stain in the ceiling below a bathroom is often the first sign of a problem with a tub overflow drain. Most people start with the bold solution of opening up a huge hole in the ceiling to see what is leaking. There is another approach that involves looking for a hidden leak in the shower or tub and fixing that first to see if opening up the ceiling can be avoided.

The following steps can help confirm that the tub overflow drain is the source of a leak and show you how to repair the problem.

Confirm the source of the leak

Start by running water in the tub to see if you notice any water leaking directly below the bathtub, If water does not leak when only the tub is in use move on to running the shower. If running water in the shower causes a leak move on to narrowing down the source.

Look for signs of water splashing back onto the valve plate, tub spout, shower head, or overflow plate. Even a small amount of water can trickle between the walls and through the floor if it gets behind the shower surround.

In my case the tub spout was leaking slowly onto the overflow plate and this was an obvious sign that the leak was coming from there. I ended up changing the tub spout and overflow gasket for this repair.

A tub overflow drain has a gasket behind it that will get brittle and compressed over time. Water reaching the overflow drain will go into the overflow where the gasket meets the tub and it will leak if the gasket is old and cracked.

To check the overflow gasket remove the overflow plate by removing the screw or screws holding the plate in place. You may need to cut away caulking from around the overflow plate before it will come off.

With the plate removed you can see what kind of shape the gasket is in. If the overflow gasket looks worn it is an easy fix to replace it. If you suspect a leak is coming from this area and the gasket is worn out replace the overflow gasket and check to see if the leak is gone.

If the overflow gasket is in good condition or if replacing the gasket do not seem to stop the leak there are some other things you can try.

·         Make sure the gasket is installed correctly and that it sits in the center of the tub overflow drain.

·         Inspect the edge of the overflow plate for nicks or corrosion that can allow water to seep in behind it.

·         Check that the overflow plate is screwed tightly into place and that the notch in the plate is facing down.

·         Check the seal around other shower parts and re-apply caulking as needed to ensure water can’t get behind the shower surround.

source: By Aaron Stickley, About.com Guide
http://plumbing.about.com/od/shower_and_tub/ss/Tub-Overflow-Drain-Leak_4.htm

Plumbing Problems - Signs of and solutions to a toilet venting problem - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

Signs of and solutions to a toilet venting problem

If you have air bubbles that rise up through your toilet bowl (except when it flushes) or notice the water level rising and falling, you probably have a clogged or improperly vented toilet. This is especially true when you have an appliance like a clothes washer nearby. Your drain line is gasping for air.

When you pour liquid from a can, you’ll notice that it doesn’t flow evenly unless you have a second opening for air. The same holds true for plumbing. As water goes down a drain, air is needed to equalize the pressure in the drain line.

This is the purpose of a venting system. If the drain lines in your home have poor venting (as in Figure A, for example), water rushing down the drains will pull water from nearby P-traps. The drain in the toilet bowl is basically a P-trap. If the problem just started, it’s probably a blocked drain or vent that needs to be “snaked” out. And since the water in the toilet is dropping and gurgling, it’s likely that the problem is near that area.

Unfortunately, a clogged or missing vent is tough to fix, since it usually requires breaking into the walls to examine the drain system. Unless you have plumbing experience, this project is best left to a professional.

source: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Plumbing/Toilet-Repair/signs-of-poorly-vented-plumbing-drain-lines/View-All

Plumber San Ramon - Check for Water Leaks - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

 

How to Check for Leaks

Studies show that dripping faucets and leaking toilets account for as much as 14% of all indoor water use, equivalent to 10 gallons per person of water lost per day.

 

Read Your Water Meter - Use your water meter to check for leaks in your home. Start by turning off all faucets and water-using appliances and make sure no one uses water during the testing period. Check this page on "How to read your water meter".

 

Take a reading on your water meter, wait for about 30 minutes, and then take a second reading. If the dial has moved, you have a leak.

 

Check for Leaky Toilets - The most common source of leaks is the toilet. Check toilets for leaks by placing a few drops of food coloring in the tank. If after 15 minutes the dye shows up in the bowl, the toilet has a leak.

Leaky toilets can usually be repaired inexpensively by replacing the flapper.

• Toilets can account for almost 30% of all indoor water use, more than any other fixture or appliance.
   
• Older toilets (installed prior to 1994) use 3.5 to 7 gallons of water per flush and as much as 20 gallons  per person per day.
   
• Replacing an old toilet with a new model can save the typical household 7,900 to 21,700 gallons of water per year, cutting both your water and wastewater bills.
• Check all faucets for drips. Replace worn and leaking washers, gaskets, pipes or defective fixtures.
• Check for leaks on outside faucets, and make sure the valve closes properly.

source: http://www.winterportmaine.org/waterleaks.htm


http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumber Danville - Are the pipes in your home vibrating in the wall? - Guaranteed Plumbing Danville

Are the pipes in your home vibrating in the wall?




Typically this is Water Hammer.  The water pressure in your pipes is too high.
You may need to allow your water arrestors to recharge. In some residences, pipes rise above the tee in order to trap air so that water does not "hammer" when turned on or off. Try turning off the water at the valve into your house. Open the hose bibbs, sink, bath and shower faucets and allow the cold water to drain out. Once drained, turn off the faucets and hose bibbs and turn the watersupply valve back on. Start at the closest faucet to the water supply valve and turn them on throughout the house moving from closest to farthest. Air should sputter from each as you go. When you have all of the cold water running, air should be trapped in any arrestor pipes. Turn off the all faucets. Air should now be trapped in the arrestor pipes, softening the noise when water is turned off. If you do not have riser type arrestor pipes you may have cartridge type water arrestors. These are typically in the wall and are hard to get access to. The riser type water arrestor pipes can typically be seen in the attic running straight up 12" to 18" above the pipe tee dropping down the wall to your tub.  Also, check that your pipes are anchored. That would be pipe straps that hold the pipe down to your framing. One other thing to check is to see if you have a loose screw or washer in your sink faucet. But, this noise would occur only when the sink was running. Also, check that the valves under your sink are fully open. Also, if you have a pressure regulator on your water supply, check and verify it's setting. You may have higher water pressure that is affecting the piping in your residence. Sometimes the diaphragm goes bad in the regulator and needs to be replaced. Not a major project. Also, if you do not have one on your hot water heater, an Expansion Tank is a good thing to install. 

source: http://www.justanswer.com/plumbing/2ghgo-pipes-house-seem-vibrating-wall-behind.html
by Patrick


http://www.guranteedplumbingco.com

Plumbing San Ramon - When Should I Repipe My Home - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

When Should I Repipe My Home?

If you are looking to repipe your home the first question we think you should ask is… well, why? There are many different reasons to repipe your home and usually the reason for repiping will decide which repiping option is best for you the homeowner.

Old Galvanized Piping – Galvanized Piping should ALWAYS be replaced. Galvanized Piping was originally thought to not rust as easily as other types of piping but the truth is it rusts very easy and if you have galvanized piping you are almost assured to have rust in your lines.

It is not healthy to be drinking water from these old rusted pipes. Also, it limits the amount of water flow and can cause other problems in other parts of your house as well. You can think of this rust as cholesterol for you pipes.

Leaking Copper Piping – If your copper piping (or any piping for that manner) is continually springing leaks in different areas there may be different reasons why. Depending on the type of copper that was put into your home when it was first built or remodeled, the builder may have used a low quality copper. For Example a type M copper is thinner than a type L copper (we only use the strongest types L or K for all copper piping). Another reason is the chemical composition of your water may actually over time eat away at the copper piping depending on how aggressive the makeup of the water is. If the water in your area is a very aggressive solution, you may have over time thinner wall on your piping making leaks and a repipe inevitable.

Illegal Piping – Its a sad truth that many contractors (including licensed ones) sometimes put in piping that is illegal and not up to building code. There is usually a reason this piping is not legal and should be taken seriously as it may be a hazard. Many times people never know until they get some work done or try to sell their home and find they can sell it because of the hazard this piping creates.

There are many other reason you may want to repipe your home but in our experience these are the most common.

by Aaron

Danville Plumber - How to know when your Toilet is leaking - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

It's not enough to just know your toilet is leaking; you also need to know what part is leaking. Here's a list of the most common places inside the tank that can leak into the bowl..

A worn out flapper or ball.
A damaged seat under the flapper.
A damaged gasket under the flush valve.
A hole or crack in the overflow tube.
A refill valve (ballcock) that needs a new seat or washer.

There are a number of signs that a toilet needs some repairs, but many toilets leak without conspicious indications of trouble. Here are some of the more obvious signs of a leaking toilet:

*** If you have to jiggle the handle to make a toilet stop running.

*** Any sounds coming from a toilet that is not being used are sure signs of leaks.

*** If you have to hold the handle down to allow the tank to empty. This can also mean the chain or strap is too long and doesn't lift the flapper or ball high enough to float on its own.

*** If you see water running over the top of the overflow, you definitely have a leaking refill valve. If you are unsure whether or not water is running over the top of the overflow pipe; sprinkle talcum powder on top of the water in the tank, and you can clearly see whether or not it is. A student of Toiletology 101 recently e-mailed me that he sprinkled talcum powder on top of the water in the bowl and it clearly will show water leaking into the bowl.

*** If you can see water trickling down the sides of the toilet bowl long after it's been flushed;

*** If water drips out of the refill tube into the overflow pipe;

*** If a toilet turns the water on for 15 secords or so without you touching the handle, this is otherwise known as the phantom flusher.

However, even if your toilet doesn't have any of these symptoms, it's still possible that it is leaking. These leaks are known as SILENT LEAKS, because they usually go undetected. There is an easy test you can do that will positively tell you whether or not your toilet is leaking. And if the test shows that the toilet is leaking, there is a second test that tells you what part inside the tank is responsible and needs fixing.

Remove the cover on the toilet tank and carefully set it aside so it can't be accidently knocked over and cracked. Remove any "in-tank" bowl cleaners that color the water and begin the test with clear water in the tank as well as in the bowl.

You'll need some dye. Some municipal water companies will provide dye capsules or tablets, but food coloring or instant coffee works fine. Another great suggestion from a viewer is to use several tablespoons of a powdered fruit drink mix; grape flavored is perfect. Now put enough dye in the tank water to give the water a deep color. Wait 30 minutes and make sure nobody uses the toilet. In 30 minutes if you find any of the dyed water is now in the toilet bowl -- your toilet is leaking. A properly operating toilet will store water in the tank indefinitely without any water running into the bowl. A student once told me she thought that water was supposed to be running in the toilet bowl to help keep it clean. Another student told me that she thought when you had a leaking toilet there would be water visible on the floor.

Water on the floor around a toilet is certainly a problem. It can be dripping off a sweaty toilet tank during humid weather; it can mean the wax sealing ring under the bowl has disintegrated, or the bowl is cracked; or it can mean the connections under the tank are leaking. (These problems will be covered later.)

So for now, let's say you've done the dye test and found your toilet is leaking, you now have to find out which part is the culprit ... the flush valve or the refill valve. And there's another simple little test that points to the perpetrator of the crime.

Draw a pencil line on the back wall of the tank on the inside of the tank at the waterline. Then turn the water supply off, either under the tank or at the main shutoff ~~ wait 20 to 30 minutes. If the water level remains at the pencil mark ~~ the leak is occuring at the REFILL VALVE, the unit in the left side of the tank. If the water level falls below the pencil mark ~~ the leak is in the FLUSH VALVE, the unit located in the center of the tank.

Photos courtesy Fluidmaster, Inc.
As noted above a leaking toilet should never be ignored; it can be a very costly oversight. The "Dye Test" is so easy to do and so useful that I found it impossible to believe that it was not included in an article published in USA Today titled, "Tender loving care beats costly home repairs" on 20 January 2006. In the section, Managing Your Money, the article took up two-thirds of a full page complete with several photos, sidebars and a Month-by-month to-do list. It appeared they covered everything except the toilet! Because a leak inside of a toilet is often not visible or audible, too many people can't believe their high water bills are due to a neglected toilet. Make sure you add this simple test to your home maintenance to-do list.  If you have determined the leak is at the flush valve and you replace the ball, flapper, seal or whatever and it still leaks, there is one more test to further try and pinpoint the problem. This time turn the water off to the toilet before going to bed. In the morning, check the water level. If there's about an inch in the bottom of the tank and the water level is even with the edges of the seat, the leak is either a bad stopper (ball, flapper or whatever) or a damaged seat. On the other hand, if the tank is almost entirely empty, and the water level is below the edges of the seat, the problem is a damaged gasket under the flush valve. This means the tank will have to be separated from the bowl in order to get to the connections.

If you don't have more than one bathroom and must use the toilet during the night, flush the toilet with a bucket of water from the bathtub. Fill a scrub bucket with water and dump the water into the bowl all at one time. It will clear the bowl.

source: http://www.toiletology.com/leaking.shtml


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San Ramon Plumber - Your Toilet Should Last 50 Years and Other Interesting Facts - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Your Toilet Should Last 50 Years and Other Interesting Facts

Everything in your house will require replacement. Here is a guide to the life expectancy of many of the components of the typical U.S. house. Please keep in mind that these are general industry standards, and family size and location can dramatically affect the expected life of an item.

Compiled from information published by the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development.


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Orinda Plumber - Moisture is the Most Destructive Force - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

Moisture is the most destructive force

Of all of the defects we look for in a home inspection, moisture is always the one that causes the most concern. Moisture is one of the worst enemies your home can have. It can cause your clothes and furnishings to mildew, ruin interior surfaces, reduce the insulating value of your insulation, cause squeaky floors and nail popping, cause paint peeling and stains on the walls and ceilings, and can ruin the structural frame of your house through fungus growth and rot.

Moisture levels in a home depend on a variety of different factors such as lifestyle (showering, cooking, heating and cooling), number of occupants, leaks and ground/atmospheric moisture. Moisture wants to move from areas of high vapor pressure to areas of low vapor pressure. Vapor pressure is the pressure exerted by water molecules in a mixture of air. When a home is being heated, moisture wants to move outside, and when it is being air-conditioned, moisture wants to move inside.

 

Since San Diego’s climate is generally dry, moisture in homes is usually caused by plumbing problems or building envelope (roof, window and wall) failures. The most destructive leaks are the slow leaks that go unnoticed for a long time. These can occur under sinks, behind dishwashers and refrigerators, and in bathrooms, or long term exposure to sprinklers. This creates a perfect environment for bacterial growth. While not all mold is toxic, it can lead to musty odors, deterioration of the house, and aggravate people with allergies.

 

Moisture in building materials can destroy structural integrity and nurture mold. The first step in moisture problem remediation is to quickly and accurately locate and remove all sources of moisture. Infrared cameras can show you what’s wet and what’s dry by highlighting differences in temperature due to thermal mass variations. IR cameras can help find the ultimate source with little or no physical disassembly of the premises and minimal disturbance of inhabitants.

 

What can you do to control moisture?

Bathroom vents can remove excess moisture from showers and baths. Often people do not use the bathroom fan because it is noisy, or they don’t want to let it run while they are gone from the house. We recommend using it! If not, leave the door open when you are done. Closing the door traps moisture in you bathroom which can cause a lot of problems. One great solution is to install a timer switch to control the fan after you exit the bathroom.

 

Kitchen vents, if vented to the outside, can remove excess moisture from cooking. Range hood fans that vent back into the room can remove smoke and odor by passing the exhaust through a filter, but they do not remove moisture from steam. If your house or condo is small, and you have a recirculating vent (one that blows back into the kitchen), be sure to leave a window open.

 

Clothes dryers that are not vented properly can produce large amounts of moisture in a house or garage. We recommend that you do not use a lint trap. These are considered a fire hazard, and they allow lots of warm, moist air into you house or garage. Even if your dryer vents to the outside, periodically check the duct for obstructions or built-up lint. This is a fire hazard, and can lead to blockage which will force the dryer to vent into the house.

 

Ventilation of your garage, crawlspace and attic are a must. Do not block the vents in your garage. There are several reasons for this. In many houses the furnace, water heater, and washer and dryer are located in the garage. These all create heat in addition to parking a car in the garage. If moisture is present you can create a perfect environment for mold. Be sure you have enough ventilation for your crawlspace and attic. The general rule is that you should have one square foot of ventilation of every 150 square feet of crawlspace or attic space. If you have had a room addition added to your house, be sure proper ventilation was installed.

 

Another big help in avoiding moisture problems is drainage, both around and under the house. This includes rain gutters and proper grading which direct water away from the structure. Good drainage will get rid of surface water and high ground water before they become a moisture problem. If you house has a raised foundation, consider installing a vapor barrier on top of the dirt.

 

Many homeowners will experience high humidity conditions in a new home the first year it is occupied. One reason for this is the amount of water that is present in the paint, plaster, concrete and other building materials. This moisture must be evaporated before the house thoroughly dries out. This problem usually corrects itself after the first year. If it does not and moisture problems persist, look for other causes of moisture problems and then correct them.

 

source: http://sdinspections.com/moisture

 

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Orinda Plumber - 10 Ways to Prevent a Home-Plumbing Nightmare - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

10 Ways to Prevent a Home-Plumbing Nightmare

A home plumbing job can quickly become a nightmare. Here are 10 rules to avoid disaster.

 

 

When homeowners hoist a wrench to install or repair sinks, tubs and toilets, they risk more than leaks. They risk their sanity, finances and general mechanical disaster. Here are 10 essential principles to avoid plumbing disaster. 

1. Don't go galvanic.

You often see copper and galvanized steel plumbing mixed in residential water systems with nothing separating them other than a little thread sealant or Teflon plumbing tape. The galvanic connection (copper to steel) can be trouble-free for years or the steel plumbing can begin to corrode almost as soon as the connection is tight. 

What to do: Use a plumbing fitting called a dielectric union to connect copper pipe to galvanized steel. The fitting uses a steel collar on the steel side and a copper collar on the copper side and isolation bushings to keep the parts separate. 

2. Flow out, not back.

Back flow occurs in municipal water systems (or within a house) when there's a sudden and severe drop in water pressure that causes water to flow back through pipes opposite the direction that it normally flows. When a runaway car severs a fire hydrant, for example, parts of a municipal system will see a flow reversal as water gushes out the hole where the hydrant once stood. The same thing can happen if there's a massive leak within your house. 

 

What to do: If your house's water is supplied by a municipal water system and you do a lot of work outside with a garden hose, use a vacuum-breaker fitting threaded onto the end of the hose bib (the valve mounted on the outside of the house). These fittings prevent back flow from a garden hose and attachments in the event of a massive shift in pressure. Some municipalities require their use, and they're not a bad idea even if you have a well. Suppose you've left a garden hose in a bucket of sudsy water and the severed-fire-hydrant scenario occurs. The vacuum breaker prevents water from being pulled out of the hose and bucket and into the municipal water system. If you're replacing a hose bib, use a freeze-proof type with a built-in vacuum breaker. Common sense measures apply too. For example, don't leave a hose unattended in a bucket and don't leave a hose laying in a puddle on the lawn. 

Likewise, if you replace or repair the main supply and valves entering the house, you may likely be required to install a back-flow preventer. 

3. Use the right connector.

Don't forget, gas lines count as plumbing too. Connecting a new gas range or dryer to an existing gas line seems simple, but the job can quickly go awry when you try to hook up a flexible gas connector to the line and find that the connector doesn't fit or you can't make the connection gas-tight, no matter how tight you make the connection. 

What to do: This is a thread compatibility problem usually brought about by a mismatch between the iron pipe supplying gas and the fitting on the end of the flexible connector you intend to use to bring the fuel to the appliance. The simplest solution is to buy a universal connection kit for a dryer or for a gas range. The kit will come with a variety of adapters to help you make the transition from the pipe and fitting supplying the gas to whatever appliance will be using it. 

4. Know where your pipes are.

Pounding nails and driving screws is all well and good, until you puncture a copper or plastic supply or drain. 

What to do: Buy a stud sensor that also detects pipes and wirings. You can also look around in the attic or the basement (if it's unfinished) to get a sense of where pipes are hiding. Finally, if the wall will be covered by whatever you're building or installing, you can always carefully cut a test hatch to find plumbing lurking in the walls. 

5. Know the code.

Plumbing is a tricky business, with rules that dictate how far you can place a fixture from the home's drain-waste-vent line based on the pipe diameter and other arcane matters. The only way you can handle a big job yourself is to know the code and what it calls for in pipe sizing, fixture spacing and related matters. 

What to do: There's lots of reference for ambitious do-it-yourselfers. Buy a copy of the International Plumbing Code or the Uniform Plumbing Code. One of the best references that we've used here over the years is Code Check, a handbook that's updated as building codes are updated. One of its best features is that it's written to cover common problems and things that even professionals get wrong. 

6. Cut right, fit tight.

You can't make a neat water- or gas-tight joint unless the parts are neatly cut. 

What to do: Buy pro-level tubing cutters, reciprocating-saw blades, hacksaw blades and a plastic pipe saw. For example, you'll be amazed by the difference between a professional tubing cutter from Ridgid, say, and the $5 special from the home center. Likewise, it seems silly to spend $20 for a plastic pipe saw when a standard handsaw works pretty well. The thing is, the plastic pipe saw works better and leaves less of a burr since its teeth have very little set compared to a saw meant for cutting wood. 

Remove burrs from plastic and copper and thoroughly clean both types of plumbing materials before soldering or gluing. Copper is best abraded with plumber's cloth (aluminum-oxide sandpaper on a spool) and plastic requires material-specific primer that softens the plastic so that the adhesive can create an optimal bond. When pipe feels greasy or dirty, use pipe cleaner before applying primer. 

A few minutes of preparation goes a long way in ensuring a watertight or gas-tight joint. 

7. Seal the deal.

Only a soldered or glued joint doesn't require sealant; everything else does. 

What to do: There are typically two types of sealant tapes in hardware stores and home centers. Tape for sealing water connections (in a blue spool) and tape for sealing gas (in a yellow spool). Yet there's no need for you to be satisfied with just those choices. Pros often carry brushable types, with variations specially formulated for threaded plastic or galvanized steel. Visit a plumbing supply house or shop online to find these varieties. Professional varieties have a higher percentage of gap-filling solids and better ensure a tight joint—no small matter given the lack of thread engagement that you often find today with badly made plumbing materials, valves and fixtures. 

8. Don't over-tighten.

If tight is good, really tight must be better. Right? Wrong. 

What to do: Given what I just said about the hit-or-miss quality of many plumbing components today, you'd think that a generous application of wrench torque is called for. Not so. A clean, properly cut and fitted joint that's been sealed just doesn't need to be massively tightened. In many cases, after bringing the parts together firmly hand-tight or using a wrench, often all it takes is another half a turn. In fact, brass–copper gas fittings are particularly vulnerable to wrench damage from over-tightening, while steel pipe is more forgiving. 

9. Leak test. Always.

It should be obvious: Make a thorough leak inspection before closing up and moving on. 

What to do: When you've installed a new valve component (or the valve itself), aggressively open and close the valve as well as running both hot and cold water through it. Do the same when checking drains. Run water down a drain and fill up a sink or tub and then drain it to check for leaks. Check gas lines with a soapy water and detergent solution or spend a few dollars for an 8-ounce bottle of bubble-creating leak detector sold on the Web or at a plumbing supply house. The advantage of this material, as opposed to dish detergent, is that it creates larger, more brightly visible bubbles than detergent does. 

10. Be kind. To your septic system, that is.

We get asked this question all the time: “Should I use an additive to improve the performance of my septic system and reduce the need to pump the septic tank?" An additive can be almost anything from sugar or enzymes to a dead chicken (we're not kidding about the chicken—we get that one plenty). 

What to do: Don't bother with additives, especially the chicken. A properly designed, built and maintained septic system will last for decades, and trying to reduce pumping intervals will more likely lead to a clogged leaching field as solids, not clear effluent, flows out of the septic tank and out into the leaching field. A septic-tank-pumping company can advise you on how often the tank needs to be pumped. It will depend on the tank's size and how many people live in the home. Likewise, avoid excessive use of chlorine bleach or caustic chemicals that can kill off beneficial digestive bacteria in the septic tank. 


source: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/improvement/electrical-plumbing/prevent-home-plumbing-nightmare?click=main_sr
by Roy Berendsohn

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