Danville Plumber - TOILET BASICS: UNDERSTANDING TOILET STYLES, WATER USAGE, AND HOW THEY WORK! - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville - 925.820.2090

Whether you’re in the beginning stages of a bathroom remodel or you just need to replace your outdated or inefficient toilet, you may be wandering the aisles of a home store or browsing your computer wondering things like:

Which toilet is right for my bathroom?

What does gpf mean?

Do I need a one or two piece toilet?

Can I save money on my water bill?

And what’s the difference between all these toilets anyway?

Never fear!  We’re here to give you a two part easy-to-understand series in toilet basics, including types, sizes, and flushing systems, so that you leave with a clearer understanding of what you really want and need in a toilet!

Types of Toilets and How they Work:

Gravity Fed: The most common type of toilet is the gravity-fed model, which uses, well, gravity.  It relies on the weight of the water and the head pressure (how high the water is in the tank) to flush.  A gravity fed toilet has free-standing water sitting in the tank.

Pressure-Assist : The lesser used pressure-assist toilet depends on air pressure within a cylindrical vessel, inside the toilet tank.  Air inside the vessel forces a vigorous, rapid flush.

Dual Flush: A dual flush toilet is a type of gravity fed toilet.  Dual-flush toilets give users two flush options: tilt the handle up for liquid waste to save water, or push the handle down for a standard flush.  Dual-flush toilets often meet the HET (high efficiency toilet) criteria of averaging 1.28 gallons per flush or less (an average based on one high flush and two low flushes).

Toilet Technology and Water Use:  Recent toilet technology has allowed toilets to use less water than ever.  That term that keeps popping up in toilet descriptions, gpf, stands for gallons of water per flush, and is a measure to help identify water usage.  Toilets manufactured before 1980, not uncommon in many homes that haven’t gone through a bathroom remodel, usually need 5 to 7 gallons of water per flush (gpf), and toilets from the 1980s to 90s typically use 3.5 gpf.  In 1992, the U.S. government mandated that toilets use no more than 1.6 gpf, changing modern design and manufacturing.

It’s easy to see why replacing older toilets with the newer models can result in significant water and sewer savings.  Replacing a 3.5- or 5-gpf toilet with a 1.6-gpf toilet can save about 9,740 to 17,300 gallons of water per year.  Meaning today’s high-efficiency toilets use less water than ever, yet outperform many of the older, water-guzzling ones.

source: bath plumbing, consumer news

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Low-Flow Toilets: Pros, Cons - Different Brands on the Market - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville - 925.820.2090

The average person flushes the toilet six times a day. The average low-flow toilet uses 1.6 gallons of water per flush versus older technology toilets which used up to 7 gallons per flush. Water conservation like this not only helps the environment, but it can also help your wallet as well by consistently lowering your water bill each month. Though low-flow toilets can cost a bit more to install initially, the economic benefits over time are quickly making low-flow toilets an industry standard.

Despite their many obvious advantages, low-flow toilets are not known for their power and can sometimes fail to flush a particularly large bundle. Though we here at Guaranteed Plumbing are happy to drive to help you with a clog, we know that you’d rather just avoid the situation altogether to begin with. 

New technology is making it possible to get powerful flushing and water conservation all in one. If you’re considering installing a low-flow toilet in your home or want to upgrade your current model, the following brands are some of the best options on the market.

1) Toto Ultra-Max: Quiet, powerful, and consumer-friendly, this toilet is easy to assemble and is known for its “three second flush.”

2) Caroma Caravelle: Featuring dual flush technology that allows a half-flush button for liquid waste and a full-flush button for solid waste. Dual flush options are quickly gaining popularity in many homes around the country. 

3) Kohler Archer One-Piece: Chic and powerful, this toilet highlights “gravity-fed” flush technology that makes it quieter than normal pressure-assisted models. Consumer Reports recently did a feature blog and video on the Kohler One-Piece.

4) Toto Drake: Has what many industry professionals consider to be the most thorough and powerful flush, leaving nothing in the bowl.

5) Kohler Purist Hatbox: For those looking for a toilet that’s a little less intrusive and a little easier on the eyes, the Kohler Hatbox is a great low-flow option. With a modern design that stays true to its name, the Hatbox is powerful while still remaining stylish.

And remember, no matter what toilet suits you best, Guaranteed Plumbing will always be there to help when something goes wrong!

source: Consumer News

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

 

Danville Plumber - How to Fix a Leaky Outdoor Faucet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

 

Step 1: Tighten the packing nut
If the faucet is leaking around the stem, use a wrench to tighten the packing nut under the handle. If this doesn't fix the problem, move on to the next step. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building when tightening the packing nut)

Step 2: Shut off the water supply
If the faucet is dripping from the spout, the faucet fixture will need to be removed. Shut off the water supply to the outside faucet by turning the valve handle.

 

Step 3: Remove the valve assembly
Open the faucet completely by turning the handle all the way open. Loosen the entire valve assembly by using an adjustable wrench on the section beneath the packing nut and above the spout. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building when loosening the section beneath the packing nut and above the spout, which is not shown in the video.) Remove the valve assembly.

Step 4: Remove packing nut washer or graphite string
Using a socket wrench, remove the retainer nut that attaches the faucet handle. Unscrew the packing nut with an adjustable wrench, and remove the nut by sliding it up the stem. Use a screwdriver to pry out the packing washer or graphite packing string inside the washer. 

Step 5: Replace the packing nut
Replace the old packing washer or graphite string with a new matching washer or string. Slide the packing nut back over the stem and tighten with an adjustable wrench. Replace the handle and retaining nut or screw. Tighten the retaining nut with a socket wrench or screwdriver. 

Step 6: For a leaking spout, remove the compression washer
To stop water dripping from the spout, replace the compression washer inside the valve assembly. Using a screwdriver, unscrew and remove the retaining screw. Remove the worn compression washer with a small-bladed screwdriver. 

 

Step 7: Replace the compression washer
Remove the old compression washer and replace it with a new matching washer. Replace the retaining screw, and screw the new compression washer in place with a screwdriver. 

Step 8: Re-attach the valve assembly
Open the handle of the valve completely. Re-assemble the faucet by screwing the valve assembly into the faucet fixture. Tighten the valve stem assembly with an adjustable wrench. Be sure to hold the valve with your free hand while you tighten the valve assembly. The packing nut should remain loose. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building.)

 

Step 9: Tighten the packing nut
Using an adjustable wrench, gently tighten the valve stem packing nut until snug. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building, which is not shown in the video.) Close the faucet valve handle and turn on the water supply to the faucet

source: http://www.renovateyourworld.com/HowTo_Library/How_to_Repair_a_Dripping_Outdoor_Faucet-Faucets-S2659.html
text by Benjamin Hardy

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Drain Management - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville, CA

A home’s drain system is one of the most overlooked systems in the home. It is out of sight/out of mind until there is a problem. Although it appears to simply be pipes connected together, it is actually a complex system designed to provide a seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the home, removes solid wastes and removes waste water. Unlike the toilet, the other drains typically found in the home (Kitchen, Bathrooms, Laundry Room, Mud Room) are designed to manage waste water and not solid wastes.

The home owner has the ability to control this system in many ways before having to call in professionals.

How does a drain become blocked?

·         Short term

o   Excessive amount of solid waste put down drain

o   A foreign object put down the drain that is too large to pass

o   Grease is put down the drain and settles in the trap

·         Long term

o   Biofilm and/or fungal growth in piping

o   Settling of particulate matter over time

o   Build up of materials such as food or hair

Quick Tips for the Home Owner:

Sinks or Lavatories – General

·         Do not put grease down the kitchen drain as it can solidify and cause plugging. Pour cooking grease into an empty coffee can or something similar. When it becomes full, toss it in the trash.

·         Even if you use a garbage disposal, uncooked vegetables such as carrot and potato peels, broccoli stems, corn cobs or husks, asparagus, other fibrous fruits and vegetables, are best disposed of in the compost pile or the non-recycling trash.

·         Don't wash coffee grounds, tea bags or egg shells down the sink. Remove paper and toss the rest in the compost pile or the non-recycling trash.

·         Pasta and rice may not pass through the garbage disposal -add to disposal slowly while running water. They are best disposed of in the compost pile or the non-recycling trash.

·         Minimize the organic solid wastes (ie food) that are put down the kitchen drain. Follow with water to flush the pipes.

·         Do not put materials that cannot decompose down any drain.

·         Do not allow hair to go down the lavatory drain if possible – remove from the lavatory and dispose of in the trash.

·         The performance of system can be improved by regularly applying a mixture of baking soda and vinegar or an organic type drain cleaner.

·         It is a good practice to periodically fill the sink with water and then release it to flush your piping.

·         Harsh drain cleaners are not recommended – they are poison, give off harmful fumes when used, can harm skin and eyes and can damage some types of pipes.

source:

http://www.nkba.org/Learn/Homeowners/Tips/FaucetsAndPlumbing/DrainManagement.aspx

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Big Ideas for Small Bathrooms - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

Big Ideas for Small Bathrooms

Steal bath design ideas from the National Kitchen & Bath Associateion's Design Competition archives

 

A few things all old house lovers are familiar with: Drafty windows, less-than-perfect plumbing, squeaky floors—and small bathrooms. While new home baths have nearly doubled in size over the past 30 years, old home bathrooms average about 5- by 8-feet.

Not to worry, though: You can combat the claustrophobia by scaling down to physically save space. (Pedestal sink, anyone?) And, with the right colors and lighting, you can create the illusion of a roomy bath.

 

These homeowners opened up their space by getting rid of two small closets and adding task and ambient lighting to help create the illusion of a larger room. Little width remained after incorporating the tub and toilet, so a shallow cabinet was incorporated. Our favourite detail? The playful "dry riverbed" of stones in the floor.

Designer Erica S. Westeroth

His and Her Bath

The use of continuing horizontal lines, a large, frameless mirror, and well-placed task lighting helps to create the illusion of a larger space. The marble-clad dividing wall lends modesty to the toilet area, while creating a recessed storage opportunity. A must in every small bath, the shower has a curbless entry to eliminate demarcation of the limited footprint

Designer: Gary Hentges

 

These homeowners wanted to "keep it simple and do it well." This cherry and limestone bath replaced a tiny, cluttered space meant for guest use. The curved-front vanity maximizes usable space with two deep drawers on double extension drawer slides.

Designer: Gary Hentges

 

This bathroom was constrained by bedrooms on either side, so it wasn't possible to increase square footage. To make the space feel roomier, white marble tile and several mirrored surfaces wrap the room. Floor-to-ceiling cabinets add height, while a glass shower wall eliminates the visual barrier of a shower curtain or doors. Rich wood tones add warmth and create balance.

Designer: Keri Davis

 

This guest bath features a custom miniature sideboard topped with a rich red travertine counter and copper vessel sink. Rich shower draperies and handmade tiles add to the charm of this space, showing that patterns used selectively as accents will not overwhelm a small room.

Designer: Leslie Ann Cohen

 By TABITHA SUKHAITHIS OLD HOUSE ONLINE
Photos courtesy National Kitchen & Bath Association

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Learn to make faucet repairs and get your sinks in tip-top shape - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Let's face it, faucets wear out. They simply don't last forever, and eventually a working faucet morphs into a leaky faucet. The remedy is to fix it or replace it, it's that simple.

 

What's funny about broken faucets is that they often still work despite their leaky tendencies. In the last year alone I've had to replace our kitchen faucet, a faucet in the master bathroom and a faucet handle in one of our showers...

Average time living with these faucet repairs on the to-do list? I didn't keep track, but it was easily months. Countertops collected water around the handles and a shower required a little extra gripping power to turn on and off for the better part of a year.

What made me finally tackle each faucet repair is the same theme I always talk about - If I can fix it myself cheaply and stress free, the satisfaction for getting it done will far outweigh the nuisance of making the repair. It's a nice reward.

Swapping out a rusting kitchen faucet with a stuck cartridge (read: cemented) inside so the granite counters stopped turning dark from seeping water made us feel better about our kitchen more than we ever had.

And while a new kitchen faucet cost more than a few dollars, the new handle in the shower cost less than a few dollars. Oh...how nice it is to operate a working handle each morning.

Further, I once made a faucet repair in our guest bathroom that didn't cost anything. We had to reverse the hot and cold on the faucet, and as entertaining as it was to hear our guests yell "Yeow!" when they thought they were getting into a warm shower (but got cold instead), this easy and free repair was well worth it..

So ask yourself - is there a faucet or sink needing repair in your home right now? If so, I want to help you take a look and see how you can make your own repairs (most often the case), or if it's time to remove it, hold a memorial service, and move on to shiny new faucet. I'll help you through it all.

Common Sink and Faucet Repair Projects

Aside from faucet repairs, there are a few other parts to any one sink that might also be calling for your attention.

Accessories like broken sink sprayers adorn many a kitchen sinks, and down below, a garbage disposal repair can come about out of the blue, exactly when you need to use it the most. Both of these require only basic skills and knowledge to repair and will bring a smile to your face when you're done.

In basements and garages, wall-mounted sinks get loose over time and need repairing - not the much more expensive alternative of replacing.

Or, perhaps you want to install something new in the realm of faucets. Outdoor water faucets are a popular summer project; for example, helping homeowners water gardens more easily or rinse off after a day in the pool.

source: http://homerepairgeek.com/faucet-repair

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

 

 

Danville Plumber - Rocking toilet and loose toilet seat fix - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville

Rocking toilet and loose toilet seat fix

 

Sitting down to do your business in the bathroom, you don’t usually expect your toilet to be loose and rock back and forth. In fact, nothing feels less secure in this room in terms of sustaining an embarrassing injury. Fortunately, a rocking toilet isn’t going to cause you much personal harm, but a loose, wobbly toilet is still something you should fix since it can eventually lead to a water leak and damage your home. Most of us haven’t ever removed a loose toilet before or even have a clue how it’s done. So, fixing a rocking toilet by say, replacing or repairing a broken toilet flange may seem daunting. Don’t despair, if you tackle this problem with a mindset that all you are doing is fixing your wobbly toilet, then you can focus on that task and accomplish something you never thought imaginable in a do it yourself project. So without further ado, let’s see what may be causing your toilet to be loose and how to fix it.

Broken toilet flange causes rocking toilet Your wobbly toilet may be moving because the mounting bolts that hold it down have nothing to grab onto anymore. You might think your loose toilet bowl is held down to the floor by a couple bolts. While this is true, you should know that the bolts don’t go directly to the floor. Instead, they secure to a toilet flange. Think of this flange as a strong metal or plastic ring. It’s this piece that is bolted to the floor, and also sometimes secured to the drain pipe called a “bend”, which is made of sturdy iron.. Now, you might get lucky and just be able to tighten down these bolts, but if the bowl is rocking or as been for a while, it’s time to take a look at the flange underneath. In this how-to article, you’ll need to start with lifting up your loose toilet from the floor. This isn’t so bad, just be sure to turn off the water supply valve first. Second, give it a flush to drain the bowl water. And third, undo the bolts holding down the toilet. After lifting up you’ll be able to see the broken toilet flange that caused the unsturdy toilet.. You have two choices here: Fix the broken or cracked toilet flange or replace the broken flange altogether.

Fix broken toilet flange – this is usually the more popular choice mainly because it is easier and can really do the trick if your broken toilet flange is iron or metal. The part you’ll need is an adapter called a super flange or spanner flange (see here). This is a semi-circle piece that fits over or underneath your broken toilet bowl flange. It’s job is to provide a new hole for the mounting bolts to hug onto. Pick one of these up (or two if you discover that both sides of your toilet flange are broken), using the previous link or visit your local hardware store. Follow the directions, and your rocking toilet will be solid again.

Replace broken toilet flange – you may be one of the lucky ones who finds that their broken toilet flange is beyond repair (e.g. is cracked or split into several pieces), or that it is old and corroded. Again, this isn’t a terribly difficult task. A new toilet flange will give you years of solid toilet mounting. Assuming again that you’re now looking at your broken toilet flange, you can remove it by unscrewing the bolts (should be three or four depending on the model) that hold it to the floor. In older, vintage homes, you may not have any bolts holding it down as it was secured with lead (molten when poured in around the bend pipe). If this is the case, you’ll need to use a chisel and hammer to break the iron flange out of position. Be very careful not to damage the main pipe, called a “bend”. After removing the broken iron flange, simply place in your new toilet flange. Models with rubber gaskets (seals) and brass rings will be the best here. Just make sure the flange is flush tight with the top of the floor, otherwise your toilet will wobble. Follow the easy instructions that come with your product, being sure to tighten each of the four bolts a little at a time so the rubber gasket goes down evenly around the bend pipe.

Don’t forget that whenever you lift up your toilet, you’ll be breaking the wax seal that keeps water from leaking. Simply clean off the old one and insert a new one. Or better yet, replace with a a wax free seal for cleaner, better installation.

Loose or broken closet bolt making toilet wobble As probably the easiest fix, your loose toilet may simply be due to your loose toilet mounting bolts needing to be tightened. Simply remove the small plastic bolt caps at the base of your toilet (they will be on each side, and can be pried off with a small screwdriver). You’ll see a nut, and it should be unmovable with your fingers. If either of these nuts is moving, tighten them down with a socket wrench. No need to be as tight as your muscles can muster, since the material your toilet is made from can crack under too much strain.

If these bolts are actually broken, however, you’ll need to replace them. The bolts can be purchased by themselves, so don’t feel like you need to buy a whole toilet flange repair kit. Just remove the old bolts and insert the new ones. The best kind will be made from brass.To do this correctly, you will need to lift the toilet from the floor, so you will need to purchase a new wax seal to replace the one you’re breaking apart by removing the toilet. This will be a good time to inspect your toilet flange too.

Poor install can cause a toilet to wiggle Your loose toilet troubles could be related to the way your toilet was last installed. This can happen if you have your bathroom floor redone, and the level or height of the floor changed. If so, check that they didn’t shim the toilet to raise it up. This is not a solid install and can easily lead to a toilet that moves when you sit down over a short time. Follow the instructions for replacing a broken toilet flange. You may have to carve out some of the tile or other flooring around the edge of the drain hole so that you can place a new flange down into the hole since the old flange may have been positioned higher for the old floor.

As with any do it yourself project, if fixing a loose toilet seems complicated and you wish to hire a plumber, at least review this article so that when the plumber explains the problem you’ll understand more what he’s doing. You can even inspect that it’s done right and ask educated questions so that your rocking toilet doesn’t return any time soon!

source: http://homerepairgeek.com/toilet-repair/loose-toilet-fix.html

Danville Plumbing - Things You Should Know About Your Home Sump Pump - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

As mechanical things go, we don’t often think about the sump pump. It’s down under the house, out of sight and out of mind. In reality, your sump pump is one of the hardest working pieces of equipment in your house.

A typical submersible sump pump drains water year round, and when a rainstorm hits the  water pump works extra duty keeping your basement from flooding. Some homes  have sump pumps to aid in basement or under the house drainage.

So, here are a couple of things to consider:

Sump pumps are mechanical and will eventually fail.  Average sump pump life is 10 years. The most common reason for failure is the sump pump switch.

If your sump pump fails during a rain storm, hundreds of gallons of water can  flood your basement  in a matter of minutes. It doesn’t take much water to cause thousands of dollars in damage.

Basement flooding can ruin your furnace, water heater and other mechanical and electrical devices. According to the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association these appliances must be replaced.

Sump pumps should be checked for proper operation a couple of times per year – pour some water into the sump pit until the submersible pump cycles. This is usually an easy process and only takes a couple of minutes.  Don’t wait for a failure during a rainstorm to find out your sump pump doesn’t work.

Again, all sump pumps eventually fail, so you should protect your home with a battery backup sump pump.  If you have a finished basement, a battery backup system is essential.

Battery backup systems range from basic to very elaborate.  My experience has been the basic systems seem to fail when you need them most.  While you don’t need to spend a fortune, you will find that for a few extra dollars you can get a good quality battery backup sump pump. These systems give you an extra measure of defense. They not only protect your belongings in case of a power failure, but automatically kick in should your primary water pump fail. 

Written by Erik Schroll

Danville Plumber - Fix a Leaky Faucet - Skills You Need to Survive Homeownership - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Too bad a house doesn't come with an owner's manual. And a week-long seminar where you learn what every button, switch, and wire is for. Alas, the keys to the castle come with no troubleshooting guide to dog-ear—and, we're betting, no wise master to unlock the mysteries of the place you call home.

Then again, that's what we're here for: to provide fast fix-it advice when it's time for you to do your home owning duty. Because at some point, you're going to have to know how to change out a light fixture without zapping yourself to kingdom come. Or paint a double-hung without gumming up the works. Or stem the flood when the toilet overflows. And you're going to want to do things right. The first time. 

This particular type of water torture is likely due to a failed washer inside a handle. The faucet is just the messenger.

To replace the washer, turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Stuff a rag in the drain so you don't lose parts, then take the handle apart. Pop the screw cover on top, remove the screw, and pull off the handle. Use a wrench to disassemble the stem, and line the parts up on the counter in the order they came off, so you know how it goes back together. Examine rubber parts or plastic cartridges for cracks, and take the offending piece to the hardware store for an exact replacement. Reassemble the parts you've laid out, in reverse. Then revel in the ensuing peace and quiet. 

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20434090,00.html
this old house magazine


http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Orinda Plumber - Loosening a Stuck Nut - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

 

Loosening a Stuck Nut

How to solve a common faucet-removal problem.

Any time you replace an old faucet, you have to take off the locking nut that holds the faucet tight to the countertop. But often that nut will be frozen due to corrosion or mineral buildup from years of water seepage. Here are some nut-freeing tricks from Richard Trethewey. This Old House's plumbing and heating expert, listed in order from easiest to difficult.

1. Tighten the nut. Moving the nut in any direction is progress. Then try to loosen it using a correctly sized wrench.

2. Tap with a hammer. Jarring the nut can break its bond to the bolt. To make sure you hit the nut itself and not the surrounding threads, place a center punch on the nut and strike the punch with a hammer.

3. Apply heat. Metal expands slightly when hot, which may be enough to crack the nut free. You can do this with a hair dryer, heat gun, or propane torch. (If using an open flame within 12 inches of anything flammable, shield it with a flame-resistant fabric.) Try to turn the nut before it cools.

4. Soak the nut. If the bolt is covered with orange streaks or crumbly bits of rust, scrub them away with a wire brush and wipe the area dry. Then squirt a penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench on the threads as close to the problem as possible. Give it time to soak in. The longer you let the oil work, the better. If you have the time, try several applications over 24 hours. If the nut is encrusted with whitish lime deposits, remove what you can with a wire brush, then brush on white vinegar to dissolve what remains.

If a nut resists all these attempts to loosen it, it will have to be cut off with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. Try making a vertical cut up through the threaded stem and nut, then crack the nut loose. 

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/skill-builder/0,,1194710,00.html
by Harry Sawyers

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumbing - Quieting Drainpipes - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Quieting Drainpipes

Plastic pipes are cheaper than cast iron, but they're also noisier

 

 

Cast iron drain- pipe is worth every penny in terms of its quietness, but I'm not surprised that your plumbers don't want to mess around with it. Plastic piping, whether it's PVC or ABS, is far less expensive, easier to handle, easier to cut, and easier to join. It's also noisier, no doubt about it.

While there's no way to entirely eliminate those annoying sloshing sounds, there are a few ways to reduce them. One thing to look at is where the pipes will be routed; it's always better to go through a closet wall instead of a living room wall, if you have the choice.

You can also reduce noise transmission by insulating around the pipe with sheets of sound- absorbing foams (www.soundprooffoam.com) or with open-cell spray foam insulation (www.icynene.com). Batts of fiberglass insulation aren't dense enough to be good at soundproofing.

Another option is to mix drain materials, the way we did at the TV project in Billerica, Massachusetts. There, the drains were all plastic except for a vertical length of cast iron that ran beside the dining room wall. Tom Silva then had foam insulation sprayed all around it, just to make sure that pipe would never be heard.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,603768,00.html
by Richard Trethewey

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Orinda Plumber - How to Repair a Dripping Two-Handled Stem Faucet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville

Photo: Paul Perreault

 

Droplets from a two-handled laundry-room faucet have been falling with the relentless beat of a metronome in the home of Richard Trethewey, This Old House's plumbing and heating consultant. "Most people will ignore a dripping faucet out of fear or ignorance," says Richard. If they deal with it at all, it's usually by cranking the handle so hard they risk tearing a rubber washer or cracking something and making the leak worse. At his own Second Empire house, it's more the case of the cobbler’s child whose feet go unshod.

A homeowner with a little wherewithal should be able to finish similarly simple repairs in half an hour. "Fixing a faucet drip won't solve the world's water woes," says Richard. "But it will save the finish on your enamel sink and end your Chinese water torture."

Photo: Paul Perreault

 

Most leaky compression faucets need new seat washers. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, pull off the handle and use a crescent wrench to unscrew the packing nut. After unscrewing the stem, remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw. Pop the stem out of the packing nut and replace the O-ring, the culprit for leaky handles. Reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut.

If your faucet continues to leak, the seat may be pitted. Remove the stem and grind smooth the valve seat with a valve-seat dresser, a tool you temporarily screw down into the faucet.

source: This Old House Magazine
by Richard Weir

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumber Dublin - Easy Fix for a Leaky Toilet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Easy Fix for a Leaky Toilet

Everything should be as reliable as a toilet. It's not unusual for one to last more than 40 years with only a minimal amount of care. But, occasionally, water will begin to leak out from under the toilet and spill onto the floor, which can lead to serious water damage. But this type of leak is easy to diagnose and fix, even if you've never attempted a plumbing repair.

The leak is usually caused when the seal under the toilet fails. Even if this hasn't happened to one of your toilets yet, this "Home Care" is for you. You'll learn how to install a new wax gasket to create a watertight seal between the toilet and the closet flange and install a new flexible water-supply tube.

Finding the Problem
Water pooling around the base of the toilet is a good indication that the wax seal has failed. But in some cases the problem lies elsewhere. Soak up the water from the floor with a sponge and dry off the toilet with a towel. Wait until a new puddle appears on the floor, then check to make sure the water is seeping out from under the toilet and not coming from a loose supply tube, faulty shutoff valve, cracked tank or sweaty bowl.

If water is leaking from beneath the toilet, you might be able to stop it by simply tightening the closet bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Use a putty knife or slotted screwdriver to pry off the caps that are covering the bolts. Then use a wrench to alternately tighten each bolt, a little at a time. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; you can crack the toilet's base.

If you're lucky, the leak will stop. If tightening the bolts doesn't help, you'll have to remove the toilet and replace the wax gasket. 

Removing The Toilet
The first step is to turn off the water at the shutoff valve, which is usually located behind the toilet, or in the basement or crawl space directly below it. Turn the handle all the way in a clockwise direction.

Remove the tank lid, flush the toilet and hold down the handle to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Use a sponge to get up the remaining water in the tank; a small paper cup will help you remove any water left in the bowl.

Next, disconnect the water-supply tube by loosening the compression nut on the shutoff valve (step 1). Pry the caps from the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the nuts (step 2). If either bolt spins as you turn the nut, hold the top of the bolt with needle nose pliers.

Grab the rim of the bowl directly below the seat hinges, and gently rock the toilet back and forth to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet off the floor (step 3) and lay it on a blanket or piece of cardboard. Use a narrow putty knife to scrape off the old wax gasket from the bottom of the toilet and from the closet flange in the floor (step 4).

Check the condition of the flange to make sure it isn't cracked or bent. After we scraped off the wax, we discovered that a large piece of the flange had broken off. If this happens, you can replace the entire flange (no easy task), install a full replacement flange or fill in the missing piece with a repair strap

To install the curved metal strap, first loosen the two screws that secure the flange to the floor. Insert a new closet bolt into the slot in the strap, then slide the strap under the flange (step 5). Tighten the flange screws to lock the strap in place. Install the remaining closet bolt in the flange. If the bolts won't stand upright, pack a little wax from the old gasket around the base of each one.

Take a new wax gasket and set it down on the closet flange, making sure it's perfectly centered (step 6). Most wax gaskets are simply a ring of solid wax, but we used Harvey's Bol-Wax No. 5 (about $5). This one has wax surrounding a core of soft urethane foam, and it easily conforms to the flange and toilet to create a superior seal.

Replacing The Toilet
If the toilet is fitted with an old chrome-plated copper supply tube, consider replacing it with a new flexible one made of stainless steel-enmeshed polymer. It makes the installation a whole lot easier, and it will virtually last forever. We installed a 12-in.-long Fluidmaster supply tube (about $5); other lengths are available ranging from about 8 to 24 in.

Apply a light coating of pipe-joint compound to the fitting at each end of the supply tube, then tighten one end onto the fill-valve shank protruding from the bottom of the toilet tank (step 7).

You're now ready to set the toilet back in place. Grip the bowl near the seat hinges, lift up the toilet and walk it over to the flange. Set the toilet down onto the wax gasket, using the closet bolts as guides. Slip the washers over the bolts and thread on the nuts. However, before tightening them, press down on the rim of the bowl with all your weight to compress the gasket (step 8).

Check to make sure the toilet tank is parallel with the back wall. Alternately tighten each closet bolt until both feel snug. Then, press down on the bowl again and tighten the nuts a little more. Continue in this manner until the nuts no longer feel loose after you press down on the toilet. Again, be careful not to exert too much pressure with the wrench or you'll crack the toilet. Use a hacksaw to cut the closet bolts nearly flush with the nuts (step 9), then snap on the bolt caps.

Your final step is to tighten the loose end of the water-supply tube to the shutoff valve (step 10). Open up the valve and flush the toilet several times. If a leak occurs, press down on the bowl and tighten the nuts a little more. If it isn't leaking, use the toilet for a couple of weeks, then pry off the bolt caps and retighten the nuts. The toilet will often settle after several uses.

The Caulk Question
There's a long-standing debate in the plumbing world over whether you should caulk around the base of a toilet. Most plumbers don't because they're concerned that the caulk would conceal any leaks. However, in some municipalities, the local building code requires homeowners to caulk around the toilet to keep bacteria from growing in the joint.

Check with your building department for the code requirement in your town. If you do decide to caulk, be sure to use a high-quality, mildew proof tub-and-tile caulk.

Step by Step
1. Disconnect the supply tube from the shutoff valve using a wrench. Be sure the valve is closed and the toilet is drained.

2. Pry off the rounded caps that cover the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the hex nuts.

3. Very carefully lift the toilet by the bowl, not the tank, and set it down on an old blanket or cardboard sheet.

4. Scrape off all of the old wax gasket from the closet flange. Note that a section of the flange is broken off.

5. Slide a repair strap under the closet flange after loosening the screws that secure the flange to the floor.

6. Set the new wax gasket down on the closet flange, making sure it's centered. Note: Both closet bolts are in place.

7. Connect the new water-supply tube to the threaded fill-valve shank on the bottom of the toilet tank.

8. Press down on the toilet bowl rim to compress the gasket. Tighten the closet bolts, then press down again.

9. Use a close-quarter hacksaw to trim off the tops of the closet bolts. Tighten the nuts before replacing the caps.

10. Connect the supply tube to the shutoff valve. Then open the valve, flush the toilet and check for leaks.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,202149,00.html
by Merle Henkenius

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Everything should be as reliable as a toilet. It's not unusual for one to last more than 40 years with only a minimal amount of care. But, occasionally, water will begin to leak out from under the toilet and spill onto the floor, which can lead to serious water damage. But this type of leak is easy to diagnose and fix, even if you've never attempted a plumbing repair.

The leak is usually caused when the seal under the toilet fails. Even if this hasn't happened to one of your toilets yet, this "Home Care" is for you. You'll learn how to install a new wax gasket to create a watertight seal between the toilet and the closet flange and install a new flexible water-supply tube.

Finding the Problem
Water pooling around the base of the toilet is a good indication that the wax seal has failed. But in some cases the problem lies elsewhere. Soak up the water from the floor with a sponge and dry off the toilet with a towel. Wait until a new puddle appears on the floor, then check to make sure the water is seeping out from under the toilet and not coming from a loose supply tube, faulty shutoff valve, cracked tank or sweaty bowl.

If water is leaking from beneath the toilet, you might be able to stop it by simply tightening the closet bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Use a putty knife or slotted screwdriver to pry off the caps that are covering the bolts. Then use a wrench to alternately tighten each bolt, a little at a time. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; you can crack the toilet's base.

If you're lucky, the leak will stop. If tightening the bolts doesn't help, you'll have to remove the toilet and replace the wax gasket. 

Removing The Toilet
The first step is to turn off the water at the shutoff valve, which is usually located behind the toilet, or in the basement or crawl space directly below it. Turn the handle all the way in a clockwise direction.

Remove the tank lid, flush the toilet and hold down the handle to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Use a sponge to get up the remaining water in the tank; a small paper cup will help you remove any water left in the bowl.

Next, disconnect the water-supply tube by loosening the compression nut on the shutoff valve (step 1). Pry the caps from the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the nuts (step 2). If either bolt spins as you turn the nut, hold the top of the bolt with needle nose pliers.

Grab the rim of the bowl directly below the seat hinges, and gently rock the toilet back and forth to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet off the floor (step 3) and lay it on a blanket or piece of cardboard. Use a narrow putty knife to scrape off the old wax gasket from the bottom of the toilet and from the closet flange in the floor (step 4).

Check the condition of the flange to make sure it isn't cracked or bent. After we scraped off the wax, we discovered that a large piece of the flange had broken off. If this happens, you can replace the entire flange (no easy task), install a full replacement flange or fill in the missing piece with a repair strap

To install the curved metal strap, first loosen the two screws that secure the flange to the floor. Insert a new closet bolt into the slot in the strap, then slide the strap under the flange (step 5). Tighten the flange screws to lock the strap in place. Install the remaining closet bolt in the flange. If the bolts won't stand upright, pack a little wax from the old gasket around the base of each one.

Take a new wax gasket and set it down on the closet flange, making sure it's perfectly centered (step 6). Most wax gaskets are simply a ring of solid wax, but we used Harvey's Bol-Wax No. 5 (about $5). This one has wax surrounding a core of soft urethane foam, and it easily conforms to the flange and toilet to create a superior seal.

Replacing The Toilet
If the toilet is fitted with an old chrome-plated copper supply tube, consider replacing it with a new flexible one made of stainless steel-enmeshed polymer. It makes the installation a whole lot easier, and it will virtually last forever. We installed a 12-in.-long Fluidmaster supply tube (about $5); other lengths are available ranging from about 8 to 24 in.

Apply a light coating of pipe-joint compound to the fitting at each end of the supply tube, then tighten one end onto the fill-valve shank protruding from the bottom of the toilet tank (step 7).

You're now ready to set the toilet back in place. Grip the bowl near the seat hinges, lift up the toilet and walk it over to the flange. Set the toilet down onto the wax gasket, using the closet bolts as guides. Slip the washers over the bolts and thread on the nuts. However, before tightening them, press down on the rim of the bowl with all your weight to compress the gasket (step 8).

Check to make sure the toilet tank is parallel with the back wall. Alternately tighten each closet bolt until both feel snug. Then, press down on the bowl again and tighten the nuts a little more. Continue in this manner until the nuts no longer feel loose after you press down on the toilet. Again, be careful not to exert too much pressure with the wrench or you'll crack the toilet. Use a hacksaw to cut the closet bolts nearly flush with the nuts (step 9), then snap on the bolt caps.

Your final step is to tighten the loose end of the water-supply tube to the shutoff valve (step 10). Open up the valve and flush the toilet several times. If a leak occurs, press down on the bowl and tighten the nuts a little more. If it isn't leaking, use the toilet for a couple of weeks, then pry off the bolt caps and retighten the nuts. The toilet will often settle after several uses.

The Caulk Question
There's a long-standing debate in the plumbing world over whether you should caulk around the base of a toilet. Most plumbers don't because they're concerned that the caulk would conceal any leaks. However, in some municipalities, the local building code requires homeowners to caulk around the toilet to keep bacteria from growing in the joint.

Check with your building department for the code requirement in your town. If you do decide to caulk, be sure to use a high-quality, mildew proof tub-and-tile caulk.

Step by Step
1. Disconnect the supply tube from the shutoff valve using a wrench. Be sure the valve is closed and the toilet is drained.

2. Pry off the rounded caps that cover the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the hex nuts.

3. Very carefully lift the toilet by the bowl, not the tank, and set it down on an old blanket or cardboard sheet.

4. Scrape off all of the old wax gasket from the closet flange. Note that a section of the flange is broken off.

5. Slide a repair strap under the closet flange after loosening the screws that secure the flange to the floor.

6. Set the new wax gasket down on the closet flange, making sure it's centered. Note: Both closet bolts are in place.

7. Connect the new water-supply tube to the threaded fill-valve shank on the bottom of the toilet tank.

8. Press down on the toilet bowl rim to compress the gasket. Tighten the closet bolts, then press down again.

9. Use a close-quarter hacksaw to trim off the tops of the closet bolts. Tighten the nuts before replacing the caps.

10. Connect the supply tube to the shutoff valve. Then open the valve, flush the toilet and check for leaks.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,202149,00.html
by Merle Henkenius

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Low-Flow Toilets - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Low-Flow Toilets

A closer look at these water-saving commodes.

 

Contrary to popular myth, plumber Thomas Crapper did not invent the flush toilet. One of his contemporaries, though, did create the first toilet that prevented sewer gases from entering the home. Englishman Joseph Adamson's 1853 design — the siphon flush — eventually made obsolete both the chamber pot and the outhouse. Adamson's invention, like all modern toilets, relies on the tendency of a moving liquid to continue flowing, even in defiance of gravity: The tank is kept full, and during a flush, the water rushes into the bowl, creating a surge over the weir (or dam). The flow stops when the bowl is empty, and the tank refills in preparation for the next flush. Originally, tanks were placed high above the bowl to get water moving forcefully enough to clear the weir, but by 1915, narrower, smoother porcelain passageways allowed quieter, 5- to 7-gallon tanks to be mounted on the backs of bowls. The next giant leap in toilet technology came in 1994, when federal law restricted tanks to 1.6 gallons per flush, but to those who used the first generation of low-flow toilets, this leap seemed more of a stumble. "They often needed two flushes," says This Old House plumbing and heating consultant Richard Trethewey. Manufacturers largely fixed that problem by further modifying the passageways to move a reduced amount of water more vigorously into the bowl.

 

Anatomy of a Low-Flow Toilet

FLUSH LEVER: Pulls the lift chain. LIFT CHAIN:Opens the flapper. A chain float limits the flush to 1.6 gallons by closing the flapper when the tank has drained to a set level. OVERFLOW TUBE: Protects against an accidental overfilling of the tank. FLOAT:Shuts a valve on the supply line when the tank level reaches a predetermined depth. FLAPPER:Releases tank water into the bowl. When released by the chain float, drops against the flush valve seat, sealing the tank so it can refill. TRAP: Holds water in the bowl, blocking the entry of sewer gases, until the flow from the tank pushes the water over the weir. SIPHON JET: Concentrates flow from the tank, jump-starting the siphoning effect. RIM HOLES (not shown): Release water during the flush, cleaning the sides of the bowl.

 By Max Alexander, This Old House Magazine

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Outdoor Showers - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Outdoor Showers

A place to rinse off outdoors is a no-brainer for beach dwellers. But it's also great for cleaning up grimy gardeners, sweaty Little Leaguers, and muddy mutts. Here's how to hook up one of your own

 

photo by Julian Wass

You don't have to be shivering in a sandy swimsuit to appreciate an open-air shower. Even landlocked homeowners—stressed-out townies, gritty greenthumbs, suburban soccer dads—are discovering that bathing outdoors is not just practical, it's downright luxurious. That's how architect Howard Backen sees his shower. Every morning, he's out there, lathering up to the sound of birds in his garden and the sight of mountains beyond his home in California's Napa Valley. "It's invigorating when it's cold, it's interesting when it's rainy, and it's incredibly refreshing when it's sunny and hot," he says. Whether the goal is to wash off the day or to commune with nature, there is an outdoor shower for you. The simplest is a foot sprayer hooked to an existing cold-water spigot. The most complicated and expensive is an outdoor shower with cold and hot water, a custom enclosure for privacy, and a built-in changing room for convenience. What's universal about any alfresco shower is that it beckons you outside. And yes, for some, it's also about the exhilaration of being in the backyard in the buff. Here's what you need to know to create the outdoor shower that best suits your naked—or not-so-naked—ambition.

Site Selection
Determining the best location for an outdoor shower depends on how you'll use it. Luke and Allison Babcock put the foot shower at their Sag Harbor, New York, home near the front door so when the couple and their two daughters return from the beach they can spray off the sand before going inside. Others opt for a shower by the pool for a postswim rinse, or close to the back door for the resident athlete just back from a sweaty jog.
The best outdoor showers also take advantage of the natural beauty of the surroundings. For a family in Bridgehampton, N.Y., architect Nick Martin designed a shower with a mahogany enclosure that he situated toward the back of the house to offer views of a rose garden and a farm across the street.

Plumbing can also dictate site. A shower on a deck near the kitchen or bathroom or on a ground-floor patio off the laundry room means you can tap into existing hot- and cold-water lines. One placed in a remote cluster of trees, though appealing, requires digging a trench and running pipe to the destination.

Privacy
When designing your outdoor shower, consider how much you are willing to expose, and account for the feelings of guests or neighbors. "I encourage people to build with the most modest person in mind," says Ethan Fierro, author of The Outdoor Shower. The most straightforward approach is a freestanding folding screen, which works especially well on a multiuse deck where permanent walls can eat up too much space. For an outdoor shower on a rooftop of a client's home in Washington, D. C., architect Kai Tong designed a roll-up bamboo screen that's high enough for a shield but low enough not to block dramatic views of the capital. The most organic approach draws on the landscape, whether a new privet hedge or an existing curtain of trees. Keep in mind that if trees are deciduous, you may have to wait until late spring for sufficient cover.

A custom wood shower enclosure offers privacy plus flexibility to add built-ins and other amenities. To prevent mold and mildew, be sure the space is well ventilated so it completely dries out after every use. Walls should be secured to corner posts and elevated about a foot off the ground to promote air circulation. And if you decide to add a solid roof, attach it only to the posts, leaving open space above the walls. A sunny location like the poolside spot that designer Beau Clowney selected for a client's shower in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina, will also help dry the enclosure.

 

Plumbing
Hook up an outdoor shower much like you would an indoor one. If you want both cold and hot running water, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey recommends adding a pressure-balance valve to prevent scalding. "And for those who live in four-season climates, by far the biggest concern is having the ability to drain pipes when the temperature drops," cautions Richard; water trapped inside can freeze and crack the pipes. Shutoff valves should be located in the house with pipes traveling on a downward slope. An exposed riser and a showerhead that both unscrew, like the gooseneck model Steve Crandall used in a shower he built in Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains region, ensure that every drop is eliminated.

Drainage is also an issue when the shower is in use. Local building codes vary about the disposal of gray water. But for the most part, outdoor showers simply drain into the ground. A drywell consisting of an earthen pit lined with landscape fabric and filled with gravel can be placed underneath the shower floor to help disperse the flow. More complicated, but required in some locales, is routing wastewater into the sewer system.

Materials
For shower floors, walls, and fixtures, choose weather-resistant materials. Enclosures made of pressure-treated wood, cedar, teak, Brazilian ironwood, even salvaged window shutters will hold up well outside. When buying imported wood, look for FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification, which means the boards were sustainably harvested. Wood is also suitable for floors, but like most decking materials, it should be treated periodically to prevent mildew and fading. A stone floor requires less maintenance, but be sure to get a type that's comfortable under bare feet, such as bluestone or tumbled river rock.

Beau Clowney recommends bronze or copper fixtures because they develop a natural patina as they age. Brass also works well, but avoid anything too shiny, because the gloss will fade. In seaside locations, where salty air can pit most metals, corrosion-resistant stainless steel with a 304 rating is typically the best choice. To keep stainless looking new, wash it down every couple of weeks with warm soapy water, rinse, and then wipe it dry with a soft cloth.

Extras
The amenities you add to your shower will play a big role in how it feels and how frequently you use it. They also add to the price, which ranges from about $200 for a basic hose-connected shower to upward of $20,000 for a lavish bathhouse with a changing area and built-in seating. Among the simplest add-ons are hooks for hanging robes and wet bathing suits, and shelves for shampoo, and extra towels. A slatted teak mat will feel better on your feet than standing directly on a drain. Other options play off the natural setting. Homeowner John Brown used deer antlers as a towel rack in the shower outside his 1920s log cabin in Folly Beach, S.C. And then there are indulgences, such as an oversized rain-style showerhead to amplify the feeling of being out in the elements, outdoor speakers (some are disguised as rocks) to pipe in music, and low-voltage lighting to illuminate an evening shower. But of course, the best amenity of all is nature itself.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,20209468,00.html
by Nancy Beiles, This Old House Magazine

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Orinda Plumber - Buyer's Guide to Kitchen Sinks - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

Buyer's Guide to Kitchen Sinks

How-to improve the only working area used to prepare meals and clean up after them

 

The kitchen may be the heart of the home, but the sink handles most of the daily chores. That's because it's the only working area used to both prepare meals and clean up after them. Although quality sinks can last 15 years or more, they do wear out. Finishes start to dull or chip, and annoying leaks appear mysteriously around the rim and drain. And if you're planning a kitchen remodel, it makes sense to replace your sink and faucet.

Manufacturers offer sinks in a variety of materials and styles, from gleaming stainless steel and durable porcelain on cast iron to several newer materials. Sinks are also one of the lowest-priced components of a kitchen remodel. Although some high-end models carry four-digit price tags, there is a wealth of well-made sinks on the market starting at around $200.

We'll cover buying a quality kitchen sink that won't break your budget and tell you what to look for in a pro installation. We'll also discuss some developments in the faucets section, including the latest styles, colors and features, and the companies that offer them.

Sink Size Vs. Kitchen Size?
With so many options — single bowls to multiple bowls of different sizes, shapes and depths — you need to consider the size of the room and how you'll use the sink. Large multi-basin models, which are popular right now, will overpower a small kitchen.

The National Kitchen & Bath Association, an industry trade group, suggests a standard 22X24-in. single-bowl model for kitchens less than 150 sq. ft. (the bowl itself measures about 16X21 in.). For larger kitchens, you can consider the added convenience of double and triple bowls that allow you to stack the dishes in one bowl while you rinse off vegetables in the other. Multi-bowl models start at about $200, and you'll pay 5 to 10 percent more for sinks with bowls of different depths.

Many designers specify one main sink and a smaller bar sink for large kitchens. Don't go for a second sink unless there are two or more cooks in the house who prepare meals at the same time. Even then, you'll have to determine if the plumbing upgrade and the $400 or so for the sink and faucet are worth it.

Whatever size and bowl configuration you choose, you'll also need to select the type of mounting you want. This is both an esthetic and a practical decision as described above.

You'll also need to specify the number of holes in the sink deck. This number will range from one to five, depending on the faucet and the number of accessories like spray hoses and soap dispensers you add.

Still another consideration is color. A colorful sink can be a nice accent, but remember you'll typically pay 15 to 40 percent more for anything other than white.

Finally, don't be surprised that your new sink doesn't include a drain strainer; it costs extra. A good one in stainless steel runs $10 to $15. Match the strainer to the sink; those designed for stainless sinks aren't long enough for cast-iron sinks.

You'll be living with your new sink for a long time, so choose carefully. A well-made sink will last as long as you need it and maintain its good looks as well.

 

Faucets: Combining Style and Function

In most cases, you'll want to replace the faucet along with the sink. If you spend at least $125 and stick with a well-known manufacturer, you're assured of quality. You'll also get nearly lead-free water delivery. A recent change in federal law now restricts the lead your sink can contribute to no more than 11 parts per billion. So what should you be thinking about? Style, finish and features.

What's hot: Single-handled models with pull-out spouts are getting the most attention. They come in different finishes, and are convenient for cleaning produce as well as the sink. Spouts with stainless-steel hoses kink less than others, and start at about $325. Faucets with water filters built into the spout, like Moen's Pure-Touch (below, $450) and Price Pfister's Pfilter Pfaucet, are hot, too. Pot fillers — cold-water taps on long swing-out arms installed near your range or cooktop — are also growing in popularity. They cost about $150, plus the cost of running the new water line.

As for finishes, chrome remains the most popular. It's durable, easy to clean and versatile. Lifetime finishes such as Moen's Lifeshine and Delta's Brilliance have also made polished-brass finishes much easier to live with. These finishes stand up to abrasive cleaners and eliminate spotting. Satin-nickel finishes are another increasingly popular option. "They're warm and soft, and blend in with just about everything," says Oklahoma City designer Faye Norton.

Features: Once you decide on a style and finish, look for the following: 1. Washer less operation: This term lumps together ball, cartridge and ceramic-disk valves. Ceramic-disk valves are likely to last longest, particularly if your water is hard or has lots of sediment. But all three should be trouble-free for years and are relatively easy to repair if necessary.

2. A long spout: If your sink has three bowls, opt for a 12- to 14-in.-long spout.

A spout that swivels at least 180 degrees, especially when buying a multi-bowl sink. You'll need that flexibility to reach the different bowls.

Mounting Choices
The plumbing for a new sink is fairly straightforward — there's not a lot of choice involved. But how and where the sink is attached to the countertop is a decision you'll need to make before you order your new basin.

Self-rimming sinks (see image 2) are easiest to install; most take about an hour. Lighter sinks, such as stainless-steel or composite models, are secured to the counter with clips and screws. Heavy cast-iron sinks are held in place by their weight.

A few stainless-steel and enamel-on-steel sinks are held in place by a separate steel rim (see image 3). However, you wind up with two seams where muck can accumulate.

Under mount sinks (see image 4) are popular because they're sleek looking, make wiping off the counters into the sink a breeze and allow you to combine bowls of different shapes and sizes. However, under mounts often take at least twice the time to install as self-rimming models. They also require solid materials, such as granite or solid surfacing, since the counter material is exposed.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,219963-3,00.html
by Fran J. Donegan