Danville Plumber - Low-Flow Toilets: Pros, Cons - Different Brands on the Market - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville - 925.820.2090

The average person flushes the toilet six times a day. The average low-flow toilet uses 1.6 gallons of water per flush versus older technology toilets which used up to 7 gallons per flush. Water conservation like this not only helps the environment, but it can also help your wallet as well by consistently lowering your water bill each month. Though low-flow toilets can cost a bit more to install initially, the economic benefits over time are quickly making low-flow toilets an industry standard.

Despite their many obvious advantages, low-flow toilets are not known for their power and can sometimes fail to flush a particularly large bundle. Though we here at Guaranteed Plumbing are happy to drive to help you with a clog, we know that you’d rather just avoid the situation altogether to begin with. 

New technology is making it possible to get powerful flushing and water conservation all in one. If you’re considering installing a low-flow toilet in your home or want to upgrade your current model, the following brands are some of the best options on the market.

1) Toto Ultra-Max: Quiet, powerful, and consumer-friendly, this toilet is easy to assemble and is known for its “three second flush.”

2) Caroma Caravelle: Featuring dual flush technology that allows a half-flush button for liquid waste and a full-flush button for solid waste. Dual flush options are quickly gaining popularity in many homes around the country. 

3) Kohler Archer One-Piece: Chic and powerful, this toilet highlights “gravity-fed” flush technology that makes it quieter than normal pressure-assisted models. Consumer Reports recently did a feature blog and video on the Kohler One-Piece.

4) Toto Drake: Has what many industry professionals consider to be the most thorough and powerful flush, leaving nothing in the bowl.

5) Kohler Purist Hatbox: For those looking for a toilet that’s a little less intrusive and a little easier on the eyes, the Kohler Hatbox is a great low-flow option. With a modern design that stays true to its name, the Hatbox is powerful while still remaining stylish.

And remember, no matter what toilet suits you best, Guaranteed Plumbing will always be there to help when something goes wrong!

source: Consumer News

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

 

San Ramon Plumber - How to Install a Kitchen Sink - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville, CA

 

A shiny new sink, along with a new faucet and countertop, will jazz up a kitchen as much as new flooring and appliances, and for considerably less money. These days, it isn't that difficult to install a new sink and faucet, thanks to fittings that simply screw or glue together—often without solder or torches

Illustration: Gregory Nemec

The trickiest part of installing a new sink and faucet is connecting the sink's drain—the pieces between the sink's tailpiece and the waste line. Always start at the sink tailpiece and work down. This is where a swivel P-trap with a trap adapter earns its keep. It can swing side to side on two different axes and adjust up or down.

Before you head off to the store, Richard recommends drawing a "map" like the illustration here and checking the inside dismeters of the tailpiece and waste line, usually 1 ½ inches. Then, instead of buying a kit, get only the pieces you need, including Schedule 40 PVC pipe to cut and fit as needed.

Photo: Keller & Keller

Mark the counter's back edge to center the sink within its cabinet.

If sink has a template, align it with the mark on the counter. Place its back edge 1 1/2 inches from and parallel to the counter. Trace around it; proceed to Step 2.

If there's no template, use 2-inch tape to outline the sink location.

Mark the center of the sink on its back lip.

Lay the sink upside down on the counter. Align the mark on the sink with the one on the counter.

Adjust the sink to leave 1 1/2 inches between its back edge and the backsplash. Be sure sink is parallel with the counter's edge.

Trace around the sink, then remove it.

Measure the width of the sink lip, subtract 1/8 inch, and mark inside the sink outline by that much.

To make the cut-out lines, connect all the marks with a straightedge. 

Photo: Keller & Keller

After using a straightedge to connect the marks, you'll end up with a rectangular outline of the sink's hole on the counter.

Round off the corners by hand to approximate the radius of the sink's corners.

Next, use a spade bit that's slightly wider than the jigsaw blade (1/2-inch bit is usually sufficient) and drill a hole inside the radius at each corner of the cut-out lines

Photo: Keller & Keller

Lower a jigsaw blade into a front hole and saw along the cut line to back hole. Repeat on the other side.

Lay a scrap of wood a few inches longer than the cutout across the sink area. Screw through the scrap and into the cutout waste to prevent it from falling or binding the saw blade.

Cut along the front and back cut lines. Remove the cut-out piece.

Check the fit of the sink in countertop; trim the hole with the jigsaw, if necessary. 

Photo: Keller & Keller

Set the sink upside down on a padded sawhorse or counter.

Feed the faucet's supply tubing and tailpiece through the gasket that seals the faucet to the sink and then up through the hole (or holes) in sink.

Screw the mounting nuts and washers to the underside of the sink deck.

Make sure the faucet can swing in a full arc across the sink before tightening mounting nuts. 

With the sink still upside down, pack a thick roll of plumber's putty under the strainer's lip and push it up through the sink's drain hole.

Slip the gasket, washer, and housing (if your strainer has one) onto the strainer and against the underside of sink. Dab pipe-joint compound onto its exposed threads.

Thread the locknut onto the strainer by hand, then tighten it with pliers while holding the strainer in place.

Fit the gasket onto the sink-drain tailpiece and attach it to the strainer with its slip nut. Tighten the nut by hand while holding strainer. 

 

Photo: Keller & Keller

With sink still upside down, squeeze a bead of silicone caulk around the underside of the sink's lip.

Turn the sink upright and set it into the countertop hole.

Check that the front of the sink is parallel with the front edge of countertop. Adjust it, if necessary.

Connect the faucet to shut-off valves using acorn-head supply tubes or braided stainless steel hoses. 

Photo: Keller & Keller

Assemble the trap adapter onto the sink-drain tailpiece.

Cut and dry-fit lengths of PVC pipe to connect the trap adapter to the trap and the drain elbow to the waste line. Swivel the trap or slide it on the tailpiece to fine-tune the pipes' lengths and alignment. Take the drain pieces apart.

Clean off the cut ends with a utility knife. Coat them and their mating pieces with PVC primer. Let dry.

Swab PVC cement on both ends being joined. Immediately push pieces together. Hold for 30 seconds.

Reassemble and hand-tighten all threaded connections. 

 

Photo: Keller & Keller

Attach the dishwasher drain line to the waste nib of the tailpiece. Tighten the hose clamp with a screwdriver.

Remove excess putty from lip of strainer.

Remove the aerator from the faucet and run the water full blast. Look for leaks at all connections along the supply and drain lines. In case of leaks, carefully tighten the nuts by one-eighth turns until the leak stops.

Make sure the sink's front edge is parallel to counter's edge. Fill the sink with water to weigh it down and hold it tight overnight as the caulk sets. 

 

source - JEFFERSON KOLLETHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE

Danville Plumber - How to Fix a Leaky Outdoor Faucet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

 

Step 1: Tighten the packing nut
If the faucet is leaking around the stem, use a wrench to tighten the packing nut under the handle. If this doesn't fix the problem, move on to the next step. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building when tightening the packing nut)

Step 2: Shut off the water supply
If the faucet is dripping from the spout, the faucet fixture will need to be removed. Shut off the water supply to the outside faucet by turning the valve handle.

 

Step 3: Remove the valve assembly
Open the faucet completely by turning the handle all the way open. Loosen the entire valve assembly by using an adjustable wrench on the section beneath the packing nut and above the spout. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building when loosening the section beneath the packing nut and above the spout, which is not shown in the video.) Remove the valve assembly.

Step 4: Remove packing nut washer or graphite string
Using a socket wrench, remove the retainer nut that attaches the faucet handle. Unscrew the packing nut with an adjustable wrench, and remove the nut by sliding it up the stem. Use a screwdriver to pry out the packing washer or graphite packing string inside the washer. 

Step 5: Replace the packing nut
Replace the old packing washer or graphite string with a new matching washer or string. Slide the packing nut back over the stem and tighten with an adjustable wrench. Replace the handle and retaining nut or screw. Tighten the retaining nut with a socket wrench or screwdriver. 

Step 6: For a leaking spout, remove the compression washer
To stop water dripping from the spout, replace the compression washer inside the valve assembly. Using a screwdriver, unscrew and remove the retaining screw. Remove the worn compression washer with a small-bladed screwdriver. 

 

Step 7: Replace the compression washer
Remove the old compression washer and replace it with a new matching washer. Replace the retaining screw, and screw the new compression washer in place with a screwdriver. 

Step 8: Re-attach the valve assembly
Open the handle of the valve completely. Re-assemble the faucet by screwing the valve assembly into the faucet fixture. Tighten the valve stem assembly with an adjustable wrench. Be sure to hold the valve with your free hand while you tighten the valve assembly. The packing nut should remain loose. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building.)

 

Step 9: Tighten the packing nut
Using an adjustable wrench, gently tighten the valve stem packing nut until snug. (Editor's note: Use a second wrench to hold the faucet in place where it connects to the building, which is not shown in the video.) Close the faucet valve handle and turn on the water supply to the faucet

source: http://www.renovateyourworld.com/HowTo_Library/How_to_Repair_a_Dripping_Outdoor_Faucet-Faucets-S2659.html
text by Benjamin Hardy

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - 5 Tips on Shopping for a Stainless-Steel Sink - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

5 Tips on Shopping for a Stainless-Steel Sink

From making sure it's just the right depth to, yes, checking out its soundproofing, here are five things to consider when buying a stainless-steel sink

 

Photo: Alison Rosa

 

Stainless steel is an obvious choice for a kitchen sink because it cleans up quickly and has a great pro look. But once you get past the key design questions—one bowl or two, undermount or overmount—you want to base your buying decision on other, less obvious factors that affect quality and value. So we canvassed the experts for their tips. Read on for five ways to see beyond a shiny surface.

Shown: Franke GNX11020 undermount sink

 

Photo: Alison Rosa

 

You want the strong, silent type, which is characteristic—counter intuitively—of the lowest and thus best gauges. No need to lose sleep over 16- versus 18-gauge, but when you get up to 22-gauge the metal is more prone to denting and vibrating, and less able to handle a garbage disposer. High-gauge drop-ins can be especially thin around the edges, making them ill equipped to support the heavier weight of a quality faucet.

 

Photo: Alison Rosa

 

Six-inch-deep basins are cheap to make, but they splash and can't hold much. A 9- or 10-inch sink, on the other hand, holds lots—a big plus when countertop space is limited. Keep in mind that an under mount ends up another inch or so lower, which could strain your back—at which point you might consider investing in a basin rack. Shape matters too. You get more volume with square corners, straight sides, and a flat bottom, but soft angles allow for easy cleaning and good drainage.

 

Photo: Alison Rosa

 

Look for rubbery under coatings and pads, which deaden the sound of running water and clattering silverware, and also reduce condensation in the base cabinet. If the sink sounds like a steel drum, it's either lightweight or naked—or both.

 

Photo: Alison Rosa

Stainless steel is ranked to reflect its contents. You want 300 series, or about 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel for optimal corrosion and stain resistance. The sink should also have a lustrous satin finish, which will develop a better patina over time than matte-finish stainless steel. Tip: If the sink holds a magnet, it is not 300 series.

Photo: Alison Rosa

 

Some sinks come with drain assemblies and baskets, and some don't. There's location and design to consider too. Toward the back means more usable space in the base cabinet and better drainage when dishes are piled in the sink. A rear drain to the left or right—as seen here—is better yet.

 

 

By DEBORAH BALDWINTHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE

San Ramon Plumber - Drain Management - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville, CA

A home’s drain system is one of the most overlooked systems in the home. It is out of sight/out of mind until there is a problem. Although it appears to simply be pipes connected together, it is actually a complex system designed to provide a seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the home, removes solid wastes and removes waste water. Unlike the toilet, the other drains typically found in the home (Kitchen, Bathrooms, Laundry Room, Mud Room) are designed to manage waste water and not solid wastes.

The home owner has the ability to control this system in many ways before having to call in professionals.

How does a drain become blocked?

·         Short term

o   Excessive amount of solid waste put down drain

o   A foreign object put down the drain that is too large to pass

o   Grease is put down the drain and settles in the trap

·         Long term

o   Biofilm and/or fungal growth in piping

o   Settling of particulate matter over time

o   Build up of materials such as food or hair

Quick Tips for the Home Owner:

Sinks or Lavatories – General

·         Do not put grease down the kitchen drain as it can solidify and cause plugging. Pour cooking grease into an empty coffee can or something similar. When it becomes full, toss it in the trash.

·         Even if you use a garbage disposal, uncooked vegetables such as carrot and potato peels, broccoli stems, corn cobs or husks, asparagus, other fibrous fruits and vegetables, are best disposed of in the compost pile or the non-recycling trash.

·         Don't wash coffee grounds, tea bags or egg shells down the sink. Remove paper and toss the rest in the compost pile or the non-recycling trash.

·         Pasta and rice may not pass through the garbage disposal -add to disposal slowly while running water. They are best disposed of in the compost pile or the non-recycling trash.

·         Minimize the organic solid wastes (ie food) that are put down the kitchen drain. Follow with water to flush the pipes.

·         Do not put materials that cannot decompose down any drain.

·         Do not allow hair to go down the lavatory drain if possible – remove from the lavatory and dispose of in the trash.

·         The performance of system can be improved by regularly applying a mixture of baking soda and vinegar or an organic type drain cleaner.

·         It is a good practice to periodically fill the sink with water and then release it to flush your piping.

·         Harsh drain cleaners are not recommended – they are poison, give off harmful fumes when used, can harm skin and eyes and can damage some types of pipes.

source:

http://www.nkba.org/Learn/Homeowners/Tips/FaucetsAndPlumbing/DrainManagement.aspx

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Big Ideas for Small Bathrooms - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

Big Ideas for Small Bathrooms

Steal bath design ideas from the National Kitchen & Bath Associateion's Design Competition archives

 

A few things all old house lovers are familiar with: Drafty windows, less-than-perfect plumbing, squeaky floors—and small bathrooms. While new home baths have nearly doubled in size over the past 30 years, old home bathrooms average about 5- by 8-feet.

Not to worry, though: You can combat the claustrophobia by scaling down to physically save space. (Pedestal sink, anyone?) And, with the right colors and lighting, you can create the illusion of a roomy bath.

 

These homeowners opened up their space by getting rid of two small closets and adding task and ambient lighting to help create the illusion of a larger room. Little width remained after incorporating the tub and toilet, so a shallow cabinet was incorporated. Our favourite detail? The playful "dry riverbed" of stones in the floor.

Designer Erica S. Westeroth

His and Her Bath

The use of continuing horizontal lines, a large, frameless mirror, and well-placed task lighting helps to create the illusion of a larger space. The marble-clad dividing wall lends modesty to the toilet area, while creating a recessed storage opportunity. A must in every small bath, the shower has a curbless entry to eliminate demarcation of the limited footprint

Designer: Gary Hentges

 

These homeowners wanted to "keep it simple and do it well." This cherry and limestone bath replaced a tiny, cluttered space meant for guest use. The curved-front vanity maximizes usable space with two deep drawers on double extension drawer slides.

Designer: Gary Hentges

 

This bathroom was constrained by bedrooms on either side, so it wasn't possible to increase square footage. To make the space feel roomier, white marble tile and several mirrored surfaces wrap the room. Floor-to-ceiling cabinets add height, while a glass shower wall eliminates the visual barrier of a shower curtain or doors. Rich wood tones add warmth and create balance.

Designer: Keri Davis

 

This guest bath features a custom miniature sideboard topped with a rich red travertine counter and copper vessel sink. Rich shower draperies and handmade tiles add to the charm of this space, showing that patterns used selectively as accents will not overwhelm a small room.

Designer: Leslie Ann Cohen

 By TABITHA SUKHAITHIS OLD HOUSE ONLINE
Photos courtesy National Kitchen & Bath Association

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumbing - How to Install a Toilet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville

Illustration: Gregory Nemec

If your trusty toilet has developed cracks or leaks, uses far too much water per flush, or is simply a shade of baby blue not seen in 20 years, it may be time to replace it. You might consider this a good time to put in a call to the plumber, but it can be all in a day’s work for a reasonably handy do-it-yourselfer. It’s not for the weak, since toilets are heavy and unwieldy, but if you have a strong back (or a sturdy assistant) you can save yourself the cost of a house call by installing it yourself.

Here, we asked This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey to show how to install a new toilet. The time required varies, but give yourself half a day if you’ve got a lot of experience with plumbing jobs, and a full day if you’re a novice.

Stuff a rag into the soil pipe to block sewer gas and prevent hardware from falling in.

Check that the hole in the floor is large enough to accommodate the closet flange up to its collar. If the hole needs to be enlarged, trace around the flange's base with a pencil, then cut away the excess flooring with a jigsaw. Don’t cut any joists. 

Dry-fit the soil pipe into the closet bend. Place the flange over the soil pipe, then measure the gap between the bottom of the flange's collar and the finish floor.

Remove the soil pipe and use a handsaw to trim it to the measurement in the previous step. Remove burrs by scraping the cut edge with a utility knife. 

Dry-fit the flange to the soil pipe, and the soil pipe to the closet bend to ensure the flange's collar rests on the floor.

Wipe PVC primer on the inside of the closet bend and on the outside of one end of the soil pipe. Apply PVC cement to those same surfaces and immediately twist the soil pipe into the closet bend.

Prime and apply cement to the free end of the soil pipe and the inside of the closet flange. Twist and press the flange onto the soil pipe until the collar is seated on the floor.

Rotate the collar until its slots are positioned to the right and left of the hole. (The closet bolts, which will be inserted into the slots, must line up parallel to the wall behind the tank.)

Secure the collar to the floor with stainless steel screws long enough to bite into the subfloor.

TIP: When gluing a fixed-collar PVC flange, align the bolt slots quickly before the cement sets.

Shut off the bathroom's water-supply valve.

Place a bucket beneath the supply line, then sever the line with a tubing cutter. Leave about 1 inch of pipe to attach the stop valve and escutcheon. Allow the pipe to drain.

Remove the valve's handle and stem. (Heat from soldering may damage the stem's plastic washers.)

Dry the pipe inside and out with a rag. Clean the inside and outside of the pipe and the inside of the valve's inlet using a wire-brush pipe cleaner. Apply flux to both areas.

Slip the escutcheon over the supply line, followed by the stop valve; the valve's outlet should point upward.

Heat the supply line stop valve joint with a propane torch. Once the joint is hot enough to melt the solder, remove the flame and run the solder around the joint. When a drop of solder appears at the bottom, the joint is filled.

Insert the long brass closet bolts, threaded-end up, into the flange collar's slots. Slip a brass washer over each.

Gently press the wax ring, flat-side down, over the flange.

Lift the toilet bowl over the flange, align the holes in its base with the closet bolts, and lower the base onto the ring.

Without twisting or rocking, press the bowl down onto the wax ring until the bowl's base rests on the floor. If the floor is uneven, shim the bowl with stainless steel washers.

Slip a nylon washer over each bolt, then hand-thread the nuts. Tighten the nuts with a wrench one quarter turn at a time, alternating between the two. Stop when the wrench meets firm resistance; overtightening will crack the bowl.

With a hacksaw, trim the closet bolts at a point two threads above the top of the nut. Snap the plastic bolt covers into place.

*Begin with this step is replacing an existing toilet or a faulty wax seal.

Make sure the large-diameter rubber tank-to-bowl (or spud) washer on the outside of the tank's bottom is firmly seated.

Fit the small-diameter rubber tank washers into the small tank holes from the inside of the tank, then insert the tank bolts.

Gently lower the tank onto the back of the bowl, guiding the ends of the tank bolts into the holes. 

Slip a nylon washer onto each bolt, then hand-thread the nuts.

Holding each bolt head in place with a screwdriver, hand-tighten the nuts, alternating from nut to nut and checking repeatedly to make sure the tank is level. Overtightening will crack the porcelain.

Connect the tank's handle to the flapper chain.

Using a tubing bender, curve the supply line to fit between the stop-valve outlet and the tank-supply fitting. Then hold the pipe, flared-end-up, between these two points and mark it half an inch below the outlet. This will leave enough line to sit inside the outlet.

Cut the supply line at the mark made above, using a tubing cutter.

Slip the plastic nut, compression nut, and compression ring (in that order) onto the supply line. Add a thin coat of Teflon paste to the valve's outlet threads, then seat the line in the outlet, and fit the compression ring.

Hand-tighten the supply line's plastic nut under the tank. Then tighten the compression nut with a wrench

Position the seat assembly over the bowl, then insert the plastic bolts through the seat back and the bowl's seat holes; tighten the nuts by hand. 

Turn on the main supply line, open the stop valve, and allow the tank to fill. Flush six times. Check for leaks.

by Scott Gibson

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/overview/0,,250406,00.html

Plumbing San Ramon - Bar Sinks - What you should look for - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville

There are now a wide variety of options for bar sinks - they range from the smaller space-saving sinks to the commercial-size ones (those that have many bays). To make it easier for you to make the decision, you must think about the available space you have and the amount and quality of entertainment that you will do in your home bar.

As a matter of fact, before designing your bar space, you would need to foresee how much entertainment you will probably do, the number of guests that you will welcome at a time, and the distance that separates your kitchen and your bar space.

Bar Sinks for Small Parties

For instance, if you will throw one party a month, and host small number of guests each time (less than 20), then you would likely need a sink that would be good for quick washing of glasses, rinsing of blenders and mixers, and so on. For these tasks, a small drop-in type of sink might be enough, or a stainless steel single-bay type might even save you some space. It may also be best for you to have the sink mounted in the counter that is underneath the bar as it is the most convenient location. One bay type sinks usually have side drain boards and back splash boards, and is very easy to install. In addition, a stainless steel type that is of restaurant quality will last a longer time and can be a good investment.

Bar Sinks for Big Parties

On the other hand, if you plan to host more frequent and larger parties, you would want to think about reserving bar space and opting for a 2 or even 3 bay commercial sink. Making frequent and long trips to your kitchen for cleaning and washing of glasses and other bar accessories can not only be disruptive to your guests, but can also take you away from being able to entertain them. Wandering through the crowd frequently with trays of glasses can also be distracting and can potentially lead to undesirable accidents. Larger 3 bay sinks can accommodate glassware preparation, cleaning, rinsing and drying all in the same place. These models also are equipped with back splashes, swivel faucets, and side drain boards which are most convenient for party hosts. Also, they are quite simple to install. Aside from these benefits, these large sinks are usually adjustable so that they perfectly fit into your bar space, wherever you install it (against the wall or under the bar). You would only need to leave the right size opening on your under bar counter tops, slide the assembled unit in, and connect the water supply and plumbing drains. Of course, best results can expectedly be achieved if you let a professional do it for you.

Thus, choosing the right bar sink for your home should not be done carelessly depending on what you feel like. You should make sure that it matches your bar design style and has just the right functionality.

source: http://www.streetdirectory.com/etoday/bar-sinks-and-faucets-peple.html

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumbing - Things You Should Know About Your Home Sump Pump - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

As mechanical things go, we don’t often think about the sump pump. It’s down under the house, out of sight and out of mind. In reality, your sump pump is one of the hardest working pieces of equipment in your house.

A typical submersible sump pump drains water year round, and when a rainstorm hits the  water pump works extra duty keeping your basement from flooding. Some homes  have sump pumps to aid in basement or under the house drainage.

So, here are a couple of things to consider:

Sump pumps are mechanical and will eventually fail.  Average sump pump life is 10 years. The most common reason for failure is the sump pump switch.

If your sump pump fails during a rain storm, hundreds of gallons of water can  flood your basement  in a matter of minutes. It doesn’t take much water to cause thousands of dollars in damage.

Basement flooding can ruin your furnace, water heater and other mechanical and electrical devices. According to the Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association these appliances must be replaced.

Sump pumps should be checked for proper operation a couple of times per year – pour some water into the sump pit until the submersible pump cycles. This is usually an easy process and only takes a couple of minutes.  Don’t wait for a failure during a rainstorm to find out your sump pump doesn’t work.

Again, all sump pumps eventually fail, so you should protect your home with a battery backup sump pump.  If you have a finished basement, a battery backup system is essential.

Battery backup systems range from basic to very elaborate.  My experience has been the basic systems seem to fail when you need them most.  While you don’t need to spend a fortune, you will find that for a few extra dollars you can get a good quality battery backup sump pump. These systems give you an extra measure of defense. They not only protect your belongings in case of a power failure, but automatically kick in should your primary water pump fail. 

Written by Erik Schroll

Orinda Plumber - You Dropped Your Cell Phone in the Toilet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

What To Do: Those fireplace tongs might come in handy for this problem, too—otherwise, you're just going to have to reach in and go fishing. "Put on your longest pair of rubber gloves and grab it," says TOH plumbing and heating contractor Richard Trethewey. If it gets stuck, a plunger can make the problem worse. "The pipe gets narrower inside the trap, and if the phone gets wedged, it's going to be a bear to get out," Richard says. If all else fails, a plumber may be able to hook it on the end of a snake. Once you've retrieved the phone, remove the battery and SIM card, dry them with a paper towel, and, if it's worth the $100 it will cost you, take the phone to an electronics repair shop, where they can open it up and dry the components inside.

How to keep this from happening to you: Lest you feel like a fool, nearly a third of the 20 phones fixed each day  are suffering from the ill effects of a spin in the loo, Don't multitask. That way, you won't lose your new iPhone. (Or offend your friends.)

source: This old house magazine
by Johs Garskof

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - How to Stop a Flood in its Tracks - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

 Learn what to do when pipes burst, fixtures leak, or appliances flood

Image by: Randall Enos

When pipes burst, fixtures leak, or appliances cause a flood, stop the deluge by cutting off the water at its source. Take a moment to locate all of the shutoff valves in your home so you'll be prepared for an emergency. 

Whole-house shutoff. For a home served by a well, the shutoff will be on the house side of the pressure tank. You should also cut power to the tank so it doesn't detect a phantom pressure loss and burn out trying to compensate. In a home with metered water, look for the shutoff on either side of the water meter. Remember, your meter could be located in the basement, mounted on an exterior wall, or even out near the street in a concrete "meter pit" where the household feed line meets the utility main. 

Whole-house hot-water shutoff. On your water heater there should be a valve on the hot-water outlet, which controls all of the hot water to the house. If there isn't one on yours, you or your plumber should install one. 

Toilet shutoff. Look for this inline shutoff — typically a ribbed oval handle — under the toilet tank. Sink shutoffs. These inline shutoffs usually sit just beneath the sink or within the cabinet or vanity. The one on the left is usually for the hot water, the one on the right for cold water. 

Dishwasher shutoff. Look first under the kitchen sink. Often there's a reducer coupling and shutoff valve leading to the dishwasher on the 1/2-inch hot-water sink-supply line. Not there? If you have a basement, look between the ceiling joists just below the appliance. 

Clothes washer. There should be valves where the house-supply lines meet the washer hoses. Washer hoses are notoriously weak, so always close the valves when leaving home for an extended period.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,193969,00.html

by John D. Wagner

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Alamo Plumber - Skills You Need to Survive Homeownership - Solder a Copper Pipe - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Don't get caught with your toolbelt down—learn this technique and tackle any household emergency with ease

Learn to sweat a pipe properly and you can save some bucks by doing simple plumbing repairs yourself. Just make sure your joint starts with clean pipes (no water or grit inside).

1) Deburr inside the pipe ends with a reamer, then polish the outside with an emery cloth.
2) Coat both parts with flux and fit them together—wherever the flux is, the solder will flow.
3) Hold a propane torch flame on one side of the joint. When the flux bubbles, touch the solder to the other side of the joint and move the flame away. The solder will be sucked all around the fitting. The heat draws the solder toward the hottest point
4) Immediately wipe the joint with a damp rag. New joint, no sweat.


source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20434090_20863283,00.html
this old house magazine


http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Fix a Leaky Faucet - Skills You Need to Survive Homeownership - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Too bad a house doesn't come with an owner's manual. And a week-long seminar where you learn what every button, switch, and wire is for. Alas, the keys to the castle come with no troubleshooting guide to dog-ear—and, we're betting, no wise master to unlock the mysteries of the place you call home.

Then again, that's what we're here for: to provide fast fix-it advice when it's time for you to do your home owning duty. Because at some point, you're going to have to know how to change out a light fixture without zapping yourself to kingdom come. Or paint a double-hung without gumming up the works. Or stem the flood when the toilet overflows. And you're going to want to do things right. The first time. 

This particular type of water torture is likely due to a failed washer inside a handle. The faucet is just the messenger.

To replace the washer, turn off the water supply valve under the sink. Stuff a rag in the drain so you don't lose parts, then take the handle apart. Pop the screw cover on top, remove the screw, and pull off the handle. Use a wrench to disassemble the stem, and line the parts up on the counter in the order they came off, so you know how it goes back together. Examine rubber parts or plastic cartridges for cracks, and take the offending piece to the hardware store for an exact replacement. Reassemble the parts you've laid out, in reverse. Then revel in the ensuing peace and quiet. 

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20434090,00.html
this old house magazine


http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Cause of a Cracked Sink? - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

 

Have you notice that a sink in one of your guest or main bathrooms has cracked even though it is 10 to 15 years old. Porcelain is a fairly brittle material; you don't need a rambunctious kid to break it. All it takes is a dropped jar of hand cream, or a blow to the countertop, or a sudden extreme temperature change from pouring scalding water into a cold sink; any of these could easily cause the crack. It might not show up immediately, either, but repeated exposure to the stresses of cold and hot water and a buildup of dirt will eventually enlarge and darken it to the point that it becomes noticeable.

This isn't an immediate problem, unless the sink is actually leaking, but cracked porcelain can't really be fixed, either. Replacing it will be easy, so I'd be inclined to get it out of there now. While you're at it, replace the faucet and both its water-supply tubes and the stop or shutoff valves under the sink. If they're as old as the sink, they're all ready for retirement.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,1547835,00.html
Richard Trethewey

Orinda Plumber - Loosening a Stuck Nut - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

 

Loosening a Stuck Nut

How to solve a common faucet-removal problem.

Any time you replace an old faucet, you have to take off the locking nut that holds the faucet tight to the countertop. But often that nut will be frozen due to corrosion or mineral buildup from years of water seepage. Here are some nut-freeing tricks from Richard Trethewey. This Old House's plumbing and heating expert, listed in order from easiest to difficult.

1. Tighten the nut. Moving the nut in any direction is progress. Then try to loosen it using a correctly sized wrench.

2. Tap with a hammer. Jarring the nut can break its bond to the bolt. To make sure you hit the nut itself and not the surrounding threads, place a center punch on the nut and strike the punch with a hammer.

3. Apply heat. Metal expands slightly when hot, which may be enough to crack the nut free. You can do this with a hair dryer, heat gun, or propane torch. (If using an open flame within 12 inches of anything flammable, shield it with a flame-resistant fabric.) Try to turn the nut before it cools.

4. Soak the nut. If the bolt is covered with orange streaks or crumbly bits of rust, scrub them away with a wire brush and wipe the area dry. Then squirt a penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench on the threads as close to the problem as possible. Give it time to soak in. The longer you let the oil work, the better. If you have the time, try several applications over 24 hours. If the nut is encrusted with whitish lime deposits, remove what you can with a wire brush, then brush on white vinegar to dissolve what remains.

If a nut resists all these attempts to loosen it, it will have to be cut off with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. Try making a vertical cut up through the threaded stem and nut, then crack the nut loose. 

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/skill-builder/0,,1194710,00.html
by Harry Sawyers

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumbing - Quieting Drainpipes - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Quieting Drainpipes

Plastic pipes are cheaper than cast iron, but they're also noisier

 

 

Cast iron drain- pipe is worth every penny in terms of its quietness, but I'm not surprised that your plumbers don't want to mess around with it. Plastic piping, whether it's PVC or ABS, is far less expensive, easier to handle, easier to cut, and easier to join. It's also noisier, no doubt about it.

While there's no way to entirely eliminate those annoying sloshing sounds, there are a few ways to reduce them. One thing to look at is where the pipes will be routed; it's always better to go through a closet wall instead of a living room wall, if you have the choice.

You can also reduce noise transmission by insulating around the pipe with sheets of sound- absorbing foams (www.soundprooffoam.com) or with open-cell spray foam insulation (www.icynene.com). Batts of fiberglass insulation aren't dense enough to be good at soundproofing.

Another option is to mix drain materials, the way we did at the TV project in Billerica, Massachusetts. There, the drains were all plastic except for a vertical length of cast iron that ran beside the dining room wall. Tom Silva then had foam insulation sprayed all around it, just to make sure that pipe would never be heard.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,603768,00.html
by Richard Trethewey

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com