Orinda Plumber - How to Unclog Your Shower Drain

Your shower drain will go worn out time by time due to daily use as well as the attack of weather. It will be slower than ever time by time. It drains not smoothly anymore and will just annoy you. If one day you find your shower completely stops draining, then it may be clogged. The cause can be various, started from scum of soap, hair, or metal things which fell off into the shower. Fortunately, unclogging your shower drain is one of the easiest plumbing projects ever. Here below are the things related to the topic of how to unclog shower drain. Keep reading for details.

You will need to first get the drain plug removed to check it out. The type of the shower will define the way of how to remove it, read the manual which comes with the shower package. For the tools which must be prepared, a screwdriver should be enough.

After the first step done, and you can see clearly inside the pipe/ shower, and you find something which makes the shower clogged, get it removed soon. It can be hair, debris, ,scum of soap or anything. By doing this shall make your shower work properly again.

If the second step did not make the shower work back properly, then you will need to do another way. It seems that the problem is way deeper inside the pipe and unseen. To check it, use metal wire, and get it inside the pipe and if there is something which block the shower, you will know it. After you are sure where the thing is, get it flushed using hard pressure of water.

This time I am sure that your shower has been back to its normal condition. But if you find the problem remains, then you will need to make a call for plumbers.

source: http://www.vizimac.com/how-to-unclog-shower-drain/
by Stewart

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Location of Your Shower Drain - Guaranteed Plumbing Danville

There is flexibility in where one locates the drain for the shower. Most shower stalls, certainly the more modern stalls are made in such a way that the floor of the stall has a slight concave allowing for a uniform drainage of water toward the middle. But even with a flat shower stall flooring, the location of the drain would be servicable whether it was located in the front, middle, or end.

Your tub to shower conversion sounds like you are making use of the existing shower and the location of the drain may very well have been satisfactory in any number of places. I know of no plumbing code that requires a shower drain to be located in the middle, though in a standing shower stall, that is almost always the preferred location. The ideal location is often a matter of practicality. In matters of plumbing, a good dose of common sense often prevails. The plumber in this situation should have ensured that he complied with your instructions. While the location of the shower drain may not have been to your specifications, ask yourself whether it is worth stressing out about. There is a certain symetry and as explained above, often a practical reason for why a shower drain is located in the center.

source: http://www.plumbingqa.com/location-of-shower-drain-plumbing-question-451/

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Orinda Plumber - 2 Common Air Admittance Valve Problems - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville, CA

2 Common Air Admittance Valve Problems

 

An air admittance valve is a valve that is completely pressure activated. It is for one way mechanical vents that are used in a plumbing system. It will totally eliminate the need for a conventional roof and pipe venting penetration. When there is a charge of water waste the air admittance valve will open and release the vacuum. This will allow all of the air to enter the vent pipe for your plumbing and will give you the proper type of drainage. It is important that you know all of the things that could go wrong so that you can keep your air admittance valve working for as long as possible.

Common Problems

Although air admittance valves are tested for their durability against rodents, sometimes they cannot persevere. Holes can sometimes still be chewed through if the area is overrun with varmint. If you happen to notice that your air admittance valve is acting like it is not sucking up what it should, then you may have a hole or two on your hands.
Sometimes you may find that even with an air admittance valve, there are still clogs and a sewer odor. While this is rare, it is possible. Remember that these valves should last anywhere from 20 to 30 years so if they are only lasting for a couple of years, then there may be some problems.

Common Solutions

Your best bet when it comes to holes in your valve is to go to the root of the problem. Get an exterminator if you need as rodents can be a large problem for issues like this. If you feel like you can handle the pest control problem yourself then give it a try, but you still may want to keep an exterminator’s number handy just in case. As for fixing the holes, you are going to be better off getting a new valve, just be sure your pest control problem is under control before you do.
If you have had the unfortunate experience of the rare occasion of an air admittance valve not doing its job, then you are probably pretty frustrated. Because this is a rarity, be sure to keep your receipt and take it back as soon as you see that it is not working. Make sure that the air admittance valve is not itself clogged as that can sometimes be an issue. If there are no clogs and everything seems to be free and clear, then return it immediately.

Overview

When it comes to an air admittance valve, there really are not that many problems that you will be running into. You will be pleasantly surprised more often than not, that they are great tools that will help to prevent clogs. They are also great at keeping that sewer stench out of your home. If you do happen to run into problems and do not know what to do, call a professional, they will be able to diagnose the problem and fix it for you quickly as well as safely.


By DoItYourself Staff
source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/2-common-air-admittance-valve-problems

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Leaking Hot Water Units - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville, CA

Leaking Hot Water Units

Warranties on hot water sytems vary depending on what system you have - the actual hot water cylinder itself will have a warranty of somewhere between five to ten years. Warranties on the electrics (thermostat and element) and valves (pressure relief, duo valve, etc) are only 12 months. These are manufacturers warranties and apply to all systems.

Having said that, the average life of a hot water unit is around 12 years although we have replaced systems that were more than 30 years old. It is a sad fact of life that sooner or later your unit will begin to leak from somewhere and the following gives you an idea of what it could be and what you can do about it.

There can be nothing more distressing than a leaking hot water unit, particularly if the unit is located inside the home. There are only a limited number of places that a hot water unit can leak from. The pressure and temperature relief valve (ptr valve) is located near the top and to one side of your hot water unit and will have a small lever on it. This lever should be gently lifted every six months or so to flush the valve free of accumulated debris. Be careful when you do this as hot water will come out of the relief line under pressure - keep your valuable body parts out of the way!

After 10 seconds or so, gently let the lever back down and the flow should stop. The relief valve is designed to leak small amounts of water particularly on the heating cycle (after someone has had a shower for example) to stop the excessive build up of pressure inside the hot water unit itself. These valves do eventually wear out and will need to be replaced. If you notice water running from the relief line on a continual basis the valve needs to be replaced. The longer you let it run the higher your electricity bill is going to be as the unit is constantly heating water even though you are not using it - hot water is running out the relief line on and cold water is coming in to the bottom of the tank to be heated continually.

The second place a hot water unit can leak from is the element gasket. The element will be near the bottom of the hot water unit where the electrical wires enter and is covered by a box or plate. The element has a rubber gasket around it where it penetrates the tank itself and these do perish over time causing leakage. Obviously, leaks from this area should be treated as a matter of some urgency due to the close proximity of the leak to the electrical supply. Do not, under any circumstances try to fix this yourself - water and electricicy do not mix and can make your hair curly. The unit usually needs to be drained and the element removed to allow replacement of the gasket. Sometimes the are where the element bolts on to the tank is too corroded to allow the bolts to be tightened up enough to allow the new element gasket to get an effective seal. If this is the case the hot water unit will require replacement as there is no repair available for this problem. Always use a qualified tradesman when dealing with any aspect of your electricity system and supply - it simply isn't worth risking your life for the sake of a few dollars.

The third place the unit can leak is from the cylinder itself. In the great majority of cases a leaking hot water cylinder means the unit is beyond repair and will require replacement. If you think your unit requires replacement don't hesitate to give us a call on (07) 5530 6333 for a competitive replacement quotation and fast service. This truly is one situation where we want to see you back in hot water as soon as possible!

 

source: http://www.theplumbingdr.com.au/welcome/page4.php

Alamo Plumber - The Facts on Faucets - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville, CA

 

Three signs that your old bath faucets are treading water: Their finish is dull or pitted. They still drip even after you repair them. Or, their style looks dated with the bath remodel you're planning. If that describes your faucets, get ready for a sea of replacement options. Stores are filled with quality $100 lav faucets with five-year warranties and others that take care of the needs of older users, tub faucets tough enough for a house full of teens and multihead shower walls that make you feel like you just stepped under a tropical waterfall. Making things tougher is that you'll also find poor-quality pretenders that glitter as brightly as top-of-the-line models. Picking a style you like is the easy part of buying a new faucet. The harder questions are: What material and finish were used in the faucet you like? Will they last and still be easy to clean? If there is a problem, how difficult and expensive are repairs? In other words, which faucet will give you the style and service for what you want to spend?

TESTING THEIR METALS
Aside from style and features, what separates good lav, tub or shower faucets from the not-so-good is the material they're made of. Start by checking out the body, which encompasses the spout and controls. Solid-brass bodies last longest and require the least care, especially with hard water, which corrodes lesser metals. At $150 or so to start, these faucets also cost the most. If you aren't sure whether a fitting is solid brass, pick it up. It should feel heavier than other units. Often, the box will read "all-brass body" versus "ZMACK" for brass- or chrome-plated fittings. Faucets with die-cast zinc-alloy bodies cost less (typically starting at about $70) and deliver good durability. Zinc is the metal beneath most brass- and chrome-plated fittings. Because zinc corrodes when it contacts water, these faucets must be replaced when the plating wears off. Stay away from low-end faucets with plastic bodies. Though their $50 entry price might be appealing, plastic simply doesn't hold up. Finish is another crucial choice that determines not only how a faucet looks but also how easy it is to maintain. An electroplated chrome finish on a brass or zinc faucet looks good and lasts. If you opt for the warmth of natural brass, you'll avoid frequent cleanings with one of the proprietary lifetime finishes that block out oxidation. Examples of these finishes include Delta Brilliance, Moen LifeShine and Jado Diamond. Pewter, nickel and satin finishes are also easy to maintain. Their muted tones hide water spots, scratches and fingerprints. They also match door and cabinet handles more easily than brass. Chrome and combination chrome-and-brass finishes are popular for baths but require frequent cleaning to maintain their shine. With a spectrum of colors available, going with painted or enamel finishes is the easiest way to individualize a faucet and coordinate it with the rest of the bath. But because most of these finishes aren't bonded to the metal like plating, they chip and scratch relatively easily. Save them for less-used powder rooms and guest baths.

PICKING A LAV FAUCET
If you're replacing only the faucets and not the sink, you have to know which size unit to buy. Start by removing the existing faucet and measuring the distance, or spread, between the holes in the lavatory. Small lavs often have three holes that span 4 in.; they accommodate faucets that consist of a spout and separate handles connected by an escutcheon plate. Your new faucet must be configured the same way. The same holds for single-handle faucets and some two-handle units mounted in a single hole. Lavs with holes 6-, 8- or 12-in. spreads have separate handles and offer more replacement options. Next, consider who will use the faucet; this factor determines the style you choose as well as the inner workings you opt for. How many handles. Look for a single-handle faucet or one with lever handles for older users or anyone who has trouble turning round knobs. Also look for an "ADA Approved" (Americans With Disabilities Act) label. If you opt for round knobs, look for ones with rotational limit stops, which take just a quarter turn to open and close the valve inside. Small children have different needs. "When children step up to the sink, they usually reach for one handle or the other. You hope it's the cold one," says Dale Archer, technical service manager for Hansgrohe, a Cumming, Georgia-based faucet manufacturer. The company suggests single-handle faucets for kids; these aren't likely to be in the full-hot position. You can also find single-handle models that let you adjust the flow mechanism to limit the amount of hot water available. What kind of valve. Control valves open and close water flow inside the faucet body when you move a handle or twist a knob. There are four kinds, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. Traditional two-handle faucets use compression valves, which control water flow with a rubber washer. Hard water and overtightening wear the washer, eventually causing leaks. However, the valve is easy to access, while washers cost only pennies to replace. Sleeve-cartridge valves are used in one- and two-handle faucets. Because all the working parts are contained in a single unit that lifts out quickly, sleeve-cartridge valves are easiest to repair. Each company has a different sleeve design, so be sure the replacement parts match your faucet. Replacements cost $10 to $20. Choose brass cartridges over plastic, if possible. Ball valves are exclusive to single-handle faucets. Introduced by Delta in 1954, they use a slotted-metal or plastic ball and spring-loaded seals to control flow. These systems are very durable and inexpensive to repair. But their many small parts make assembly difficult. Stick with metal ball valves and replacement kits (about $10), which hold up better than plastic ball valves. Ceramic-disk valves are considered the best by many experts. A two-part revolving disk turns water on and off depending on the alignment of its ports. Replacing the self-contained disk is fast and easy (about $15 to $20). And because the disk is impervious to sand and sediment, this is the system to choose if your water has lots of either. If impurities aren't a problem, other systems should be fine. Whichever control valve you consider, check the warranty. It's a good indication of how long the manufacturer expects the valve to last.

TUB AND SHOWER UNITS
To avoid extensive work on your shower wall, choose a new shower faucet with the same basic layout. Stick with a single- or double-handle faucet if that's what you have. The same goes for tubs, including antique or antique-style claw-foot units. Some have faucet holes drilled into the porcelain 3 5/8 in. apart, an unusual spread. Kohler and American Standard make faucets to fit this oddball size. Styles. The type of tub you have will determine which style faucet to select. If the tub is surrounded by a ceramic-tile platform, the spout and handles can be mounted on the platform. Rim-mounted faucets are installed through holes predrilled in the tub. Both configurations work when the tub and shower are separate. Wall-mounted faucets are the most common when the tub and shower are combined. They also offer the option of single-handle controls. Most showerheads provide a variety of spray options. If you don't like the height of your present showerhead, consider a handheld model. They're perfect for rinsing hair and cleaning the shower or tub. When not held, the head can be mounted on a bracket or on the shower arm like a conventional head. Many manufacturers also offer heads that slide on a pole to adjust for tall and short users. Using multiple showerheads in the bath is a growing trend. Separate jets molded into a shower wall wash your entire body at once. Each showerhead typically costs between $10 and $20. But because each head requires valves and piping to deliver the water, installing these systems requires extra in-the-wall plumbing - at a steep price. You'll also need to check water restrictions in your area before replumbing your shower. Temperature control. Most of us have experienced a hot or cold "shock" when someone flushes a toilet while we shower. Shower faucets with pressure-balance valves prevent this shock; the valve senses a sudden drop in hot or cold pressure and reduces pressure on the other side to keep water temperature from varying more than 2° or 3°F. Thermostatic valves accomplish the same thing by sensing changes in temperature. Until recently, scald protection was available only in single-handle faucets. The new Monitor II from Delta is the first two-handle faucet that offers it. Many communities have "scald codes" that require scald protection in all new construction. Even if your town doesn't have this requirement, antiscald protection is vital for children and older adults. Shower faucets with scald protection usually start at around $150. Heat memory is another shower option worth considering. Some are electronic, but most keep the handle in position when you turn off the water, allowing you to maintain the heat setting you had when you last shut them off.

 

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214006-5,00.html

by JHERI FLEET

San Ramon Plumber - Making Your Shower Safer - Guaranteed Plumibing Co Danville

Antiscald valves installed in tubs and showers maintain safe water temperatures

photo by Merle Henkenius

 

You're in the shower, doing your best imitation of a Top-40 pop star. Suddenly that warm, relaxing shower turns too hot to handle, causing you to jump back to avoid the scorching water. The cause? Someone in the house has flushed a toilet. If the situation sounds familiar, then you need to install a pressure-balance valve in your shower. These pressure-balancing devices prevent "shower shock" by automatically adjusting for temperature fluctuations whenever water?cold or hot?is diverted from the tub or shower, such as when someone starts up a load of laundry or flushes a toilet. Even in an instance when the water pressure drops drastically, a pressure-balance valve ensures that the water temperature doesn't change by more than 3° F. Antiscald devices have been required in hospitals and nursing homes for decades. Now, 31 states have enacted, or will do so soon, legislation requiring pressure-balance valves in all residential remodeling and new-construction projects. Antiscald devices are a wise investment. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, each year some 200,000 Americans suffer injuries caused by sudden changes in water temperature while they're bathing. Everyone is in danger of getting scalded or falling as they try to escape the hot water, but young children, the elderly and the physically challenged suffer the most injuries. BALANCING ACT

Until recently, single-handle pressure-balance valves were the only models available; these are fine when replacing a single-handle inner valve or for a full-scale remodel, but they're not very well suited to changing over an existing two-handle faucet. To hide the empty handle holes, you have to install an enormous trim plate, which isn't particularly attractive. For that reason, we chose the Delta Monitor II (about $260), the first two-handle pressure-balance valve. But, unlike a standard two-handle faucet, which has separate hot- and cold-water handles, the right handle of the Monitor II controls water temperature and the left handle controls water volume. It features a polished-chrome-and-brass finish, and includes a matching tub spout and showerhead. For our project, we removed a two-handle, 8-in. centerspread faucet through a hole we cut in the back side of the shower wall. We also enlarged the existing handle holes in the acrylic tub surround with a sabre saw to accommodate the Monitor II. If the walls of your shower are covered with ceramic tile, enlarge the holes using either a rotary tool with a 1/8-in.-dia. carbide bit or a sabre saw with an abrasive-grit blade

Step-by-step Start by removing the existing faucet handles, escutcheons, showerhead and tub spout. Look for a hex-head set screw on the underside of the tub spout. Loosen it with a hex-key wrench and pull the spout straight out. If there is no screw, the spout is threaded on. Cover it with a cloth and twist it off counterclockwise with a pipe wrench (photo 1), or insert a wood plunger handle in the spout itself and turn it counterclockwise. Next, cut an opening in the back side of the plumbing wall with a drywall saw (photo 2); gently pry out the piece and save it. Go from stud to stud (about 141/2 in. wide) and from 6 in. above the faucet handles to 8 in. below the tub spout. Keep in mind that a larger wall opening makes it easier and safer to solder; what's more, it's no more difficult to repair than a smaller opening. Shut off the water to the tub and shower and cut out the old faucet with a hacksaw or miniature tube cutter (photo 3). Next, move around to the tub side of the wall to enlarge the two handle holes (photo 4) for the Monitor II valves. Cut the right-hand hole to 3 1/2 in. dia. and the left-hand hole to 21/4 in. dia., making sure the enlarged holes measure 8 in. from center to center. Threaded inlet and outlet ports on the Monitor II accept 1/2-in. male adapters, which have to be soldered, or sweated, onto copper pipe. But to keep from scorching the neoprene and nylon cartridges inside the valve, solder the adapters onto short pipe lengths, called stubs. Allow the fittings to cool completely and then thread the adapters into the ports. Make all the stubs at least 8 in. long, except the one for the tub spout. It must be cut exactly to length: Set the valve assembly into the wall openings and measure down to the hole for the spout.

Steps 5-8 To establish the exact horizontal length of the supply pipes that protrude from the wall, look at the markings on the black plastic spacers covering the faucet stems. The outer mark should align with the surface of the finished shower wall. Using these marks, cut a length of pipe long enough to leave the threads of a male adapter protruding 3/8 in. from the wall. Solder this assembly together with a male adapter on each end. Wrap the threads of the adapters with Teflon tape and tighten them onto the valve with an adjustable wrench (photo 5). Set the faucet, fitted with pipe stubs, into the wall with the spacers extending through the wall openings. Match the water-supply pipes with the pipe stubs and mark each cut with a pencil. Remove the faucet, and cut the pipes and stubs to fit. Sand each pipe end with emery cloth, then set the faucet back in place. Brush flux onto the pipe ends and solder the connections with couplings and 45- and 90-degree elbows (photo 6). Warning: The flame from the torch can scorch and even set fire to combustible surfaces. You should protect the work area with a double thickness of sheet metal or a flame-shield fabric, which is available at plumbing-supply shops. After soldering the joints, check the marks on the plastic spacers. Reposition the valve assembly, if necessary, then slip a 1 X 2 support block behind the valve pipes (if one isn't already in place) and screw it to the stud at each end. Secure the pipes to the 1 X 2 with copper straps fastened with 1 1/2-in. screws. Finally, turn the water on and check for leaks. To trim out the faucet, begin by removing the black plastic spacers from the control stems. Then thread the tub spout onto its male adapter. Mount the volume trim flange and handle onto the left-hand control stem and connect the temperature trim flange and handle onto the right-hand stem. Now test the valve by turning on the water to its highest temperature setting. If the water feels too hot, turn it off, remove the handle and locate the nylon rotational limit stop on the stem. It's marked with two arrows. Rotate the stop several notches, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions, and replace the handle. Retest the system and readjust the limit stop if necessary. To repair the access hole cut in the wall, screw 1 X 2s between the wall studs, then screw the piece of drywall you removed earlier back in place. Conceal the patch with paper tape and three or four coats of joint compound (photo 7). Finally, on the shower side, apply a thin bead of silicone caulk around both trim plates and the tub spout (photo 8). Allow the silicone to cure overnight before using the tub or shower. You can now shower comfortably knowing that the only shock you might experience is when you actually sing on key.

Source:  http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,218723,00.html
by MERLE HENKENIUS

Plumber San Ramon - Tub Overflow Drain Leak - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

A tub overflow drain can be the cause of a leak even though it is a place not usually suspected. A water stain in the ceiling below a bathroom is often the first sign of a problem with a tub overflow drain. Most people start with the bold solution of opening up a huge hole in the ceiling to see what is leaking. There is another approach that involves looking for a hidden leak in the shower or tub and fixing that first to see if opening up the ceiling can be avoided.

The following steps can help confirm that the tub overflow drain is the source of a leak and show you how to repair the problem.

Confirm the source of the leak

Start by running water in the tub to see if you notice any water leaking directly below the bathtub, If water does not leak when only the tub is in use move on to running the shower. If running water in the shower causes a leak move on to narrowing down the source.

Look for signs of water splashing back onto the valve plate, tub spout, shower head, or overflow plate. Even a small amount of water can trickle between the walls and through the floor if it gets behind the shower surround.

In my case the tub spout was leaking slowly onto the overflow plate and this was an obvious sign that the leak was coming from there. I ended up changing the tub spout and overflow gasket for this repair.

A tub overflow drain has a gasket behind it that will get brittle and compressed over time. Water reaching the overflow drain will go into the overflow where the gasket meets the tub and it will leak if the gasket is old and cracked.

To check the overflow gasket remove the overflow plate by removing the screw or screws holding the plate in place. You may need to cut away caulking from around the overflow plate before it will come off.

With the plate removed you can see what kind of shape the gasket is in. If the overflow gasket looks worn it is an easy fix to replace it. If you suspect a leak is coming from this area and the gasket is worn out replace the overflow gasket and check to see if the leak is gone.

If the overflow gasket is in good condition or if replacing the gasket do not seem to stop the leak there are some other things you can try.

·         Make sure the gasket is installed correctly and that it sits in the center of the tub overflow drain.

·         Inspect the edge of the overflow plate for nicks or corrosion that can allow water to seep in behind it.

·         Check that the overflow plate is screwed tightly into place and that the notch in the plate is facing down.

·         Check the seal around other shower parts and re-apply caulking as needed to ensure water can’t get behind the shower surround.

source: By Aaron Stickley, About.com Guide
http://plumbing.about.com/od/shower_and_tub/ss/Tub-Overflow-Drain-Leak_4.htm

Plumbing Problems - Signs of and solutions to a toilet venting problem - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

Signs of and solutions to a toilet venting problem

If you have air bubbles that rise up through your toilet bowl (except when it flushes) or notice the water level rising and falling, you probably have a clogged or improperly vented toilet. This is especially true when you have an appliance like a clothes washer nearby. Your drain line is gasping for air.

When you pour liquid from a can, you’ll notice that it doesn’t flow evenly unless you have a second opening for air. The same holds true for plumbing. As water goes down a drain, air is needed to equalize the pressure in the drain line.

This is the purpose of a venting system. If the drain lines in your home have poor venting (as in Figure A, for example), water rushing down the drains will pull water from nearby P-traps. The drain in the toilet bowl is basically a P-trap. If the problem just started, it’s probably a blocked drain or vent that needs to be “snaked” out. And since the water in the toilet is dropping and gurgling, it’s likely that the problem is near that area.

Unfortunately, a clogged or missing vent is tough to fix, since it usually requires breaking into the walls to examine the drain system. Unless you have plumbing experience, this project is best left to a professional.

source: http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-Projects/Plumbing/Toilet-Repair/signs-of-poorly-vented-plumbing-drain-lines/View-All