Plumbing Danville - How to Install a Pedestal Sink - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

 

How to Install a Pedestal Sink

Plumbing expert Richard Trethewey makes a challenging bathroom renovation task look easy

 

Illustration: Gregory Nemec

 

"There's something elegant about pedestal sinks," says This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey. "And they're perfect for a half bath, where a vanity would overwhelm the limited space."

Pedestal sinks were originally made of enameled cast iron, but by 1915 manufacturers began fabricating them from vitreous china, a glass-like porcelain. For all their stylish attributes, pedestal sinks present some installation challenges.

"This is the graduate school of do-it-yourself projects," Trethewey says. Drain and supply pipes must be roughed in at the right height. Completed pipe work has to look neat. And looming at every turn is the dreaded "tink," the sound porcelain makes when a fastener is tightened too much - and the china breaks.

Trethewey often gets calls from homeowners who've been stymied by some critical step in the process. "You must measure, measure, measure," he counsels. "Don't rely on the manufacturer's instruction sheet."

 •First choose your sink, thenhire a plumber to rough in a new waste pipe. "More often than not, the exisiting waste pipe is too low to install the trap, which fits inside the pedestal," Richard says.
•While the wall is open, install blocking, a horizontal 2x that's screwed between the studs at basin height, beneath the palster or drywall. Blocking provides a solid anchor for the lag screws holding the sink against the wall.
•Sinks do not come with fasteners. Have lag screws and washers on hand before undertaking this project.
•Some steps require four hands. If you try to do everything by yourself, you may see hundreds of dollars' worth of porcelain topple and smash to the floor.

Step 1: Prep the rough plumbing, Part I

 

Photo: David Carmack

Shut off the main water supply and drain the hot and cold lines into a bucket.

At the sink location, place a bucket under the copper supply lines and, with a compact tubing cutter, shear them both off about 2 inches from the wall.

Tighten the cutter slightly after each turn around the tube to avoid distorting the soft copper.

Find the distance from the center of the basin's drain to the wall. (On new sinks, this dimension is supplied with the instructions.)

Measure out from the wall and mark this distance on the PVC waste pipe. 

Step 2: Prep the rough plumbing, Part II

 

Photos by: David Carmack

Hold the P-trap, fitted with its elbow, alongside the pipe, with the trap's vertical end centered on the mark.

Now mark the pipe where the PVC shoulder joins the elbow.

Using a hacksaw, cut the waste pipe at this mark. To help ensure a square cut, hold the saw parallel to the wall and do not apply downward pressure. 

Step 3: Solder the supply lines

Gently ream the inside edges of the copper supply lines with a pocketknife or the triangular blade on a tubing cutter. This removes the burr left by the tubing cutter.

Polish the ends of the supply lines with sandpaper until the copper is shiny. Coat the line with flux. Polish and flux the inside of the angle stops and slip them, with their escutcheons, over the supply lines.

Light the propane torch and apply its bright blue inner flame to the stop, at the spot where the supply line ends. Hold the tip of lead-free solder against the copper tubing where it joins the stop, on the side opposite the flame.

When the solder starts to melt, turn off the torch and run the solder around the joint. After it cools slightly, wipe with a damp rag to smooth the exposed solder and remove any flux, which corrodes copper. 

Step 4: Install a pop-up drain

Photo: David Carmack

 

Roll a wad of plumber's putty into a¾-inch-wide rope and wrap it around the pop-up drain, underneath its flange.

Wipe the basin's drain hole clean and drop the pop-up drain through it.

On the underside of the basin, slide a gasket and washer onto the drain. Thread the nut onto the drain and hand tighten. Using a wrench or water-pump pliers, finish tightening with a quarter-turn. 

Step 5: Level the basin

 

Photo: David Carmack

Set the pedestal on the floor so it lines up with the PVC waste pipe and its center is about the same distance from the wall as the center of the basin's drain (see step 1).

Place the basin on the pedestal and against the wall. Fine-tune the pedestal placement and level the basin side-to-side.

Make a mark on the wall through each of the mounting holes at the back of the basin. This shows where to drill later for the lag screws that hold the basin to the wall. 

Keeping the pedestal and basin together, move them away from the wall. Have a helper hold the sink steady so it doesn't tip over.

Test-fit the P-trap and elbow assembly to the PVC waste pipe, and measure the distance from the floor to the top of the trap's open vertical end. Mark the same distance up from the floor on the tailpiece of the pop-up waste assembly. 

Step 6: Attach the trap

Photo: David Carmack

Remove the elbow and place the P-trap's slip-nut and washer over the pop-up waste's tailpiece. Cover the P-trap's threads with pipe dope or plumber's tape and slide the trap up to the mark you just made on the tailpiece. Thread the nut on to the trap by hand.

Tighten the nut with a wrench or water-pump pliers, taking care not to mar the chrome finish.

Drill into the wall at the lag screw locations marked in step 5

Step 7: Mount the faucet

Photo: David Carmack

Place O-rings (if provided) or rings of plumber's putty under the flanges of the faucet's valves and spout, and insert them into their respective holes on the basin deck.

Slide a gasket and thread a nut onto the underside of each of the fittings. Tighten the nuts by hand, then finish tightening with a basin wrench. Carefully move the sink back against the wall.

Line up the mounting holes in the back of the basin with the holes in the wall. Insert the lag screws with their fender washers through the mounting holes and tighten with a socket wrench while checking for level. 

Step 8: Make final connections

Photo: David Carmack

 

Place a washer between the elbow and trap, dope the threads, and tighten the nut by hand. Finish tightening with water-pump pliers.

Measure the distance between one angle stop and its faucet valve, add an inch, and cut a chromed supply tube to length with a tubing cutter.

Slip two compression nuts and a ferrule over the cut end. First, tighten one nut to the stop with a wrench, then bend (don't kink) the supply tube slightly—first to the side, then up—so its acorn head fits into the valve's outlet.

Tighten the head to the valve with the second nut. Repeat for the other angle stop and faucet.

With the lift rod in the up position attach the pop-up stopper to the actuator arm, then secure the arm to the lift rod with the screw provided.

Slide the escutcheon and cover over the PVC waste pipe. 

BY THOMAS BAKERTHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE

Plumber San Ramon - Fixing a Leaky Faucet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co - Danville

 

 

Paul Perreault

 Before You Start

• Shut off the water under the sink.
• Close the sink drain; cover it with a rag to catch dropped parts.
• Tape the jaws of your wrench with a layer of duct tape to avoid scratching the fixture.
• Establish a place to lay out parts in order of removal.
• Use distilled white vinegar and a soft scouring pad for removing mineral deposits on faucet parts.

Find Your Faucet

There are four kinds of faucets: compression, cartridge (sleeve), ceramic disk, and ball type. Each type is illustrated here. Except for the ball-type faucet, there are two illustrations for each. The less detailed version will identify the kind you have. The more detailed one will help as you make repairs.

A compression faucet relies on rubber washers to seal the valve seat. Rubber washers wear out and must be replaced occasionally. The other types, often called washerless faucets, last longer but they too can develop leaks. When these cartridge, ceramic-disk or ball-type faucets leak, you can either replace the O-ring or neoprene seal that's causing the leak or replace the entire assembly for less than $20.

Compression Faucets

Most leaky compression faucets need new seat washers. Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, pull off the handle and use a crescent wrench to unscrew the packing nut. After unscrewing the stem, remove and replace the seat washer held in place by a brass screw. Coat the washers with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease. Pop the stem out of the packing nut and replace the O-ring, the culprit for leaky handles.

O-rings range in size from 3/8 to 5/8 in., so it's crucial to exactly match the size on your faucet. Coat the new O-ring with the plumber's grease. Reassemble the faucet and tighten the packing nut.

If your faucet continues to leak, the seat may be pitted. Remove the stem and grind smooth the valve seat with a valve-seat dresser, a tool you temporarily screw down into the faucet.

Ball-type Faucets

This type of faucet contains a lot of parts, and that often makes it difficult to find the cause of the leak. You can avoid the aggravation by buying a replacement kit and putting in all new parts. First, remove the handle set screw and lift off the handle. Use adjustable pliers to remove the cap and collar. Using the special tool included in the faucet-repair kit, loosen the faucet cam and lift it out along with the cam washer and the rotating ball. Reach into the faucet body with needle-nose pliers and remove the inlet seals and springs.

Next, cut off the O-rings, coat the new ones in nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease and roll them on. Install new springs, valve seats and cam washers as you reassemble the faucet. Another more expensive option for an older faucet is to replace the entire fixture. You'll need a basin wrench to do this.

Cartridge Faucets

Pry off the decorative cap on the handle, remove the handle screw, tilt the handle back and pull it off. If there's a threaded retaining clip holding the cartridge in place, use needle-nose pliers to remove it, and then pull the cartridge straight up. Remove the spout and cut off the old O-rings using a utility knife. After coating the new O-rings with nontoxic, heat-proof plumber's grease, reassemble the unit.

To replace the entire cartridge ($10 to $15), match the length of yours to the replacement cartridge length. Also match the stem end where the handle attaches.

Ceramic-Disk Faucets

Push the faucet handle back to access the set screw. Remove the screw and lift off the handle. Remove the escutcheon cap, unscrew the disk cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder. With a blunt screwdriver, lift out the neoprene seals from the cylinder (if the seals are damaged, replace them) and use distilled white vinegar and a plastic scouring pad to clean the cylinder openings.

Rinse thoroughly. Then replace the seals and reassemble the faucet. Move the handle to the "on" position and very slowly turn the water back on—the force of the returning water can fracture the ceramic disk.

If you're replacing the entire cylinder, which seldom is necessary, merely set it in place and secure it 

By John D. Wagner
source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,193895-3,00.html

Plumbing San Ramon - Making Your Shower Safer - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

Antiscald valves installed in tubs and showers maintain safe water temperatures.

photo by Merle Henkenius

You're in the shower, doing your best imitation of a Top-40 pop star. Suddenly that warm, relaxing shower turns too hot to handle, causing you to jump back to avoid the scorching water. The cause? Someone in the house has flushed a toilet. If the situation sounds familiar, then you need to install a pressure-balance valve in your shower. These pressure-balancing devices prevent "shower shock" by automatically adjusting for temperature fluctuations whenever water?cold or hot?is diverted from the tub or shower, such as when someone starts up a load of laundry or flushes a toilet. Even in an instance when the water pressure drops drastically, a pressure-balance valve ensures that the water temperature doesn't change by more than 3° F. Antiscald devices have been required in hospitals and nursing homes for decades. Now, 31 states have enacted, or will do so soon, legislation requiring pressure-balance valves in all residential remodeling and new-construction projects. Antiscald devices are a wise investment. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, each year some 200,000 Americans suffer injuries caused by sudden changes in water temperature while they're bathing. Everyone is in danger of getting scalded or falling as they try to escape the hot water, but young children, the elderly and the physically challenged suffer the most injuries. BALANCING ACT

Until recently, single-handle pressure-balance valves were the only models available; these are fine when replacing a single-handle inner valve or for a full-scale remodel, but they're not very well suited to changing over an existing two-handle faucet. To hide the empty handle holes, you have to install an enormous trim plate, which isn't particularly attractive. For that reason, we chose the Delta Monitor II (about $260), the first two-handle pressure-balance valve. But, unlike a standard two-handle faucet, which has separate hot- and cold-water handles, the right handle of the Monitor II controls water temperature and the left handle controls water volume. It features a polished-chrome-and-brass finish, and includes a matching tub spout and showerhead. For our project, we removed a two-handle, 8-in. centerspread faucet through a hole we cut in the back side of the shower wall. We also enlarged the existing handle holes in the acrylic tub surround with a sabre saw to accommodate the Monitor II. If the walls of your shower are covered with ceramic tile, enlarge the holes using either a rotary tool with a 1/8-in.-dia. carbide bit or a sabre saw with an abrasive-grit blade.

Step-by-step Start by removing the existing faucet handles, escutcheons, showerhead and tub spout. Look for a hex-head set screw on the underside of the tub spout. Loosen it with a hex-key wrench and pull the spout straight out. If there is no screw, the spout is threaded on. Cover it with a cloth and twist it off counterclockwise with a pipe wrench (photo 1), or insert a wood plunger handle in the spout itself and turn it counterclockwise. Next, cut an opening in the back side of the plumbing wall with a drywall saw (photo 2); gently pry out the piece and save it. Go from stud to stud (about 141/2 in. wide) and from 6 in. above the faucet handles to 8 in. below the tub spout. Keep in mind that a larger wall opening makes it easier and safer to solder; what's more, it's no more difficult to repair than a smaller opening. Shut off the water to the tub and shower and cut out the old faucet with a hacksaw or miniature tube cutter (photo 3). Next, move around to the tub side of the wall to enlarge the two handle holes (photo 4) for the Monitor II valves. Cut the right-hand hole to 3 1/2 in. dia. and the left-hand hole to 21/4 in. dia., making sure the enlarged holes measure 8 in. from center to center. Threaded inlet and outlet ports on the Monitor II accept 1/2-in. male adapters, which have to be soldered, or sweated, onto copper pipe. But to keep from scorching the neoprene and nylon cartridges inside the valve, solder the adapters onto short pipe lengths, called stubs. Allow the fittings to cool completely and then thread the adapters into the ports. Make all the stubs at least 8 in. long, except the one for the tub spout. It must be cut exactly to length: Set the valve assembly into the wall openings and measure down to the hole for the spout.

 

Steps 5-8 To establish the exact horizontal length of the supply pipes that protrude from the wall, look at the markings on the black plastic spacers covering the faucet stems. The outer mark should align with the surface of the finished shower wall. Using these marks, cut a length of pipe long enough to leave the threads of a male adapter protruding 3/8 in. from the wall. Solder this assembly together with a male adapter on each end. Wrap the threads of the adapters with Teflon tape and tighten them onto the valve with an adjustable wrench (photo 5). Set the faucet, fitted with pipe stubs, into the wall with the spacers extending through the wall openings. Match the water-supply pipes with the pipe stubs and mark each cut with a pencil. Remove the faucet, and cut the pipes and stubs to fit. Sand each pipe end with emery cloth, then set the faucet back in place. Brush flux onto the pipe ends and solder the connections with couplings and 45- and 90-degree elbows (photo 6). Warning: The flame from the torch can scorch and even set fire to combustible surfaces. You should protect the work area with a double thickness of sheet metal or a flame-shield fabric, which is available at plumbing-supply shops. After soldering the joints, check the marks on the plastic spacers. Reposition the valve assembly, if necessary, then slip a 1 X 2 support block behind the valve pipes (if one isn't already in place) and screw it to the stud at each end. Secure the pipes to the 1 X 2 with copper straps fastened with 1 1/2-in. screws. Finally, turn the water on and check for leaks. To trim out the faucet, begin by removing the black plastic spacers from the control stems. Then thread the tub spout onto its male adapter. Mount the volume trim flange and handle onto the left-hand control stem and connect the temperature trim flange and handle onto the right-hand stem. Now test the valve by turning on the water to its highest temperature setting. If the water feels too hot, turn it off, remove the handle and locate the nylon rotational limit stop on the stem. It's marked with two arrows. Rotate the stop several notches, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions, and replace the handle. Retest the system and readjust the limit stop if necessary. To repair the access hole cut in the wall, screw 1 X 2s between the wall studs, then screw the piece of drywall you removed earlier back in place. Conceal the patch with paper tape and three or four coats of joint compound (photo 7). Finally, on the shower side, apply a thin bead of silicone caulk around both trim plates and the tub spout (photo 8). Allow the silicone to cure overnight before using the tub or shower. You can now shower comfortably knowing that the only shock you might experience is when you actually sing on key.

 

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,218723-3,00.html
by Merle Henkenius

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

 

 

Plumbing Orinda - How to Design Small Baths So They Feel Roomier - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

A small bathroom must contain all the elements of a large bath in less space. That's why planning a new one or remodeling your existing one is so challenging. You have to think about function, appearance, fixtures and storage, along with how much room you have—and how much you can afford to spend on the project.

When every inch counts, you might want to consider getting professional design help at a kitchen and bath dealer or from the design staff at a home center or plumbing distributor. Also contact the National Kitchen & Bath Association for a copy of “41 Guidelines of Bathroom Planning.” Then check your plans against the guidelines to be sure your bath looks and functions its best. We've distilled the NKBA guidelines to get you started.

Stretching Strategies

To create a powder room, you'll need at least 16 sq. ft.; a full bath requires a minimum of 36 to 40 sq. ft. The finished room must measure at least 5 ft. in one direction to accommodate a tub. Building codes typically require 32x32 in. (finished dimensions) for a shower; if you have the space, larger is better. Just make sure the shower is large enough so you-and all your family members-can comfortably raise your arms when washing hair or bend over to pick something up.

Once you've determined how much space you have, there are a wealth of ways to make it look bigger. For example, use a pocket, rather than a hinged, door. Choose as large a mirror as possible (use only one; more than one confuses the eye). And go with light-colored finish materials. Clear-glass shower doors stretch space visually, and you can unify the bath by using one finish for all trim and hardware.

Storage space usually is at a premium in small baths, so consider recessing an 8-in.-deep bath cabinet above the vanity. Install the vanity at a comfortable height—36 in. off the floor for most adults, 43 in. if you're taller than average. Select a vanity with drawers or bins, or add organizers for toiletries and cleaning supplies to a unit that comes unequipped with these items.

Finally, avoid pedestal sinks in a small, full bath. They look great but are impractical because they don't provide storage. Save them for powder rooms where storage isn't as crucial. If you must use a pedestal sink, include open shelves or a tile-lined niche behind or adjacent to it. Or consider using cabinetry 16 or 18 in. deep instead of the usual 21 in. A small-scale pedestal lav, available from every major plumbing manufacturer, is another viable option worth considering.

Keeping it Affordable

How much will a small-bath remodel cost? That depends on structural changes and the price of the components. The NKBA's annual “Trends Survey” of certified kitchen and bath designers puts the cost of the average bathroom re-model done by its members at about $9,000. You can cut that figure by more than half by shopping at a home center and doing the work yourself. On the other hand, it's easy to exceed that amount by picking high-end components.

For example, a deluxe whirlpool tub costs $5,000, while a white cast-iron tub goes for $500. A sculpted one-piece toilet with a power-assisted flush will set you back $1,000; a basic gravity-action, two-piece model in white costs only $150. A sink with a custom-designed solid-surfacing bowl and pedestal is a $1,000 investment whereas a simple self-rimming, white china version costs $100.

Another important factor in the final tally is the cost of labor. Because all the major building trades are involved in a bathroom remodel, sprucing up even a small bath tends to be expensive if you hire out all the work. 

Musts for Every Bath

No matter how small a bathroom you're planning, it must include certain items. Ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) are required by code to protect receptacles in wet areas, such as bathrooms and kitchens. GFCIs quickly break the circuit, which can prevent a potentially fatal shock from a blow-dryer or electric shaver.

Low-flow toilets, which use 1.6 gal. of water per flush, are required by law in all new and remodeled baths. Pressure-assisted toilets effectively clear the bowl with one flush, but make considerable noise in the process. Gravity models sometimes require two flushes to clean the bowl properly. For maximum efficiency, choose a bowl with a large water surface. And make sure there's sufficient space around the toilet for comfortable access-ideally, at least 16 in. from the centerline of the toilet and walls or fixtures on either side. Also allow at least 30 in. from the front of the toilet to the nearest object.

Proper ventilation will prevent moisture from getting trapped in the bath, which can lead to mold and mildew growth. This moisture can also destroy wallcoverings, harm wallboard and other building components and saturate insulation, rendering it useless. Extract moisture by installing a ducted exhaust fan on a timer. Most timers allows you to set the fan for 15 to 60 minutes to remove heat, steam and condensation. Choose a fan according to the cubic feet per minute of air it moves. To find how out much you need, divide the cubic footage of the room by 7.5. Look for a fan that generates 6.5 sones or less of noise.

Adequate lighting is needed for shaving, applying and removing makeup and other grooming tasks. Include task-specific and ambient, or general, light. Multiple recessed ceiling fixtures are all but invisible and eliminate the locker-room look of a single ceiling-mounted fixture. Include a light fixture above the tub and/or in the shower. Flank the vanity or pedestal lavatory with a pair of decorative sconces or multibulb theatrical strips. And avoid fluorescent lights, which alter the color of your complexion.

You also might want to place small low-voltage lights in the vanity toekick for drama and as a night-light. And, if you like to relax while soaking in the bathtub, install some of the bathroom lighting on dimmer switches.

Finally, admitting natural light with skylights, etched glass, transom windows and glass block is an effective way to maintain privacy without taking up additional space. At a minimum, window area should equal at least 10 percent of the square footage of the room.

A properly installed grab bar in the shower should be bolted directly to the studs. Do not simply screw the bar into the wallboard or glue it to the surface of ceramic tile.

Also remember that a locking cabinet for medicines and cleaning supplies is an especially important safeguard against poisoning if you live with or are visited by young children.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,337003-3,00.html
by Elaine Martin Petrowski

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumbing San Ramon - How Does Lead Get into my Water - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

How Does Lead Get Into My Water?

Lead enters the water (“leaches”) through contact with the plumbing.

Lead leaches into water through:

Corrosion of

• Pipes
• Solder
• Fixtures and Faucets (brass)
• Fittings

The amount of lead in your water also depends on the types and amounts of minerals in the water, how long the water stays in the pipes, the amount of wear in the pipes, the water’s acidity and its temperature.

Corrosion is a dissolving or wearing a way of metal caused by a chemical reaction between water and your plumbing

Quick Tips to Reduce Your Family's Exposure to Lead

Use cold water for drinking or cooking. Never cook or mix infant formula using hot water from the tap.

Make it a practice to run the water at each tap before use.

Do not consume water that has sat in your home’s plumbing for more than six hours. First, make sure to run the water until you feel the temperature change before cooking, drinking, or brushing your teeth, unless otherwise instructed by your utility.

Some faucet and pitcher filters can remove lead from drinking water. If you use a filter, be sure you get one that is certified to remove lead by the NSF International.

source: http://water.epa.gov/drink/info/lead/leadfactsheet.cfm

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Customer Testimonials - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Client Testimonials Melony Newman, President and CEO of the Danville Chamber of Commerce, experienced a break in her sewer line located underneath a custom tile walkway. Guaranteed Plumbing meticulously cut the tiles, excavated the concrete, located the break, trenched, and removed and repaired the broken lines. “Forgive me if I am overflowing with enthusiasm, but I cannot say enough good things about my experience working with Marcus Madrid and Guaranteed Plumbing! I originally was working with a nationally-known plumbing company, and the “issue” continued and was escalating. I was given a wrong diagnosis and a very expensive quote. I contacted Gaylor Construction for a local referral, nd I am so grateful for the decision. They referred me to Marcus, who quickly assisted with the correct diagnosis and resolved the issue in a fraction of the time the other company quoted and at a fraction of the cost! The team was professional, courteous, very careful to clean up after themselves each day, and solved the problem. The job took about a week. Working with Marcus has been a wonderful experience.” Melony Newman, President & CEO of the Danville Area Chamber of Commerce The Luckhardts were experiencing a leak under their kitchen sink. We sent our service technician to their home and received an email the same day. “We just wanted to let you know that Damen did a terrific job. He is a very polite and efficient young man. He came right on time, found the problem right away, fixed it, cleaned it up like it never happened and was on his way.” Ruby and Wade Luckhardt, Owners of FastSigns   http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumbing Orinda - 25 Years of Innovation: Faucets - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

25 Years of Innovation: Faucets

Today, there's as much variety in fixtures as in any other element of home decor.

Photo: William A. Boyd 

In the old days, choosing a faucet was a no-brainer: You said okay to whichever fixture your plumber provided. There were kitchen and bath showrooms, sure, but manufacturers hadn't started courting homeowners directly. Today, educated consumers, empowered by the Internet, well-stocked home centers, and, if we may be so bold, shows and magazines like This Old House, are steeped in the latest trends. For a look at what's hot now—and what's coming—turn the page.

The Past
A typical '70s kitchen had a chrome-finished faucet with acrylic hot and cold knobs. Single-lever controls were just beginning to catch on, and if you were truly cutting-edge, you had a separate side sprayer—"to wash the baby with," as our bemused host suggested during This Old House's first season, in 1979. 

The Present

Convenience, style, and functionality are the watchwords of today's kitchen and bath faucets. European manufacturers started a trend in the 1980s when they began treating faucets as an integral part of interior design. Today, there's as much variety in fixtures as in any other element of home decor. 

The Future

According to the MIT Media Lab, where inventors are busy brainstorming new kitchen technologies, faucets of the future will have more bells and whistles—and lights. LED lights hidden inside the faucet will turn the water from red to blue depending on the temperature. Here are some other faucet innovations we might see, based on MIT and industry sources. 

• Tiny cameras in the faucet will recognize what's under the spout and adjust the water temperature accordingly: cold for veggies, warm for hands, hot for pots, and so on.
• As water conservation efforts increase, electronic faucets will enter the mainstream, with voice commands ("the faucet is running") and built-in meters that monitor consumption.
• Antimicrobial coatings in the supply lines will help defend against waterborne bacteria.
• Installation will continue to get easier, with modular fixtures that snap into the faucet deck.

 
Innovations

Their looks grab lots of attention, but today's faucets also perform better, last longer, and are easier to install than previous models.

No-Drip Mechanics
Faucets used to work with compression valves — up to a point anyway. Eventually, the rubber washers that control the flow of water would erode, resulting in a slow, steady drip. Not so with today's ceramic disc technology. Disc valves, which shear open and shut, remain virtually leak free.

Finishes That Last
For years, chrome plating was king because of its durability (think car bumpers). Other finishes required clear coatings that would eventually chip, leading to corrosion of the base metal. But thanks to a high-tech bonding process called physical vapor deposition, or PVD, any finish, from brushed nickel to rubbed bronze, can last forever. The technology was adopted from the tool industry, where it's used to give drill bits their impervious finish.

No-Sweat Installation
Old copper tubing was inflexible and needed soldering at the joints. Today's fixtures have flexible supply lines with push-and-click connectors, so homeowners can make their own hookups with only a wrench and a free Saturday morning. 












Source: This Old House Magazine
by Dan Diclerico



Http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumbing Danville - Loosening a Stuck Nut - How to solve a common faucet-removal problem - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Loosening a Stuck Nut

How to solve a common faucet-removal problem.

Any time you replace an old faucet, you have to take off the locking nut that holds the faucet tight to the countertop. But often that nut will be frozen due to corrosion or mineral buildup from years of water seepage. Here are some nut-freeing tricks from Richard Trethewey. This Old House's plumbing and heating expert, listed in order from easiest to difficult.

1. Tighten the nut. Moving the nut in any direction is progress. Then try to loosen it using a correctly sized wrench.

2. Tap with a hammer. Jarring the nut can break its bond to the bolt. To make sure you hit the nut itself and not the surrounding threads, place a center punch on the nut and strike the punch with a hammer.

3. Apply heat. Metal expands slightly when hot, which may be enough to crack the nut free. You can do this with a hair dryer, heat gun, or propane torch. (If using an open flame within 12 inches of anything flammable, shield it with a flame-resistant fabric.) Try to turn the nut before it cools.

4. Soak the nut. If the bolt is covered with orange streaks or crumbly bits of rust, scrub them away with a wire brush and wipe the area dry. Then squirt a penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench on the threads as close to the problem as possible. Give it time to soak in. The longer you let the oil work, the better. If you have the time, try several applications over 24 hours. If the nut is encrusted with whitish lime deposits, remove what you can with a wire brush, then brush on white vinegar to dissolve what remains.

If a nut resists all these attempts to loosen it, it will have to be cut off with a hacksaw or reciprocating saw. Try making a vertical cut up through the threaded stem and nut, then crack the nut loose. 

Source by HARRY SAWYERSTHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE

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Plumber San Ramon - Hands-Free Faucets - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

Hands-Free Faucets - Optional manual control and new wireless technology make sensor powered spigots kitchen ready.

A novelty in public bathrooms—Look, Ma, no hands!—touchless faucets are moving into the kitchen. With pro-chef features such as high-arc swiveling necks for pot-filling, pull-down spigots for rinsing produce, and the ability to switch from automatic to manual control, these new high-tech sprayers are designed for serious KP duty.

The faucets, which turn on and off using combination motion and light sensors, help prevent the spread of germs because you never have to touch controls with grimy mitts. They also conserve water by doling it out only on demand. The technology has been around for about 20 years, but past problems with trigger-happy or unresponsive sensors, inconveniently placed temperature and stream adjusters, and the hassle of wiring the sensors have previously made hands-free impractical in kitchens.



The Parma from Danze and the Pascal from Brizo address all that with more-accurate sensors; side-mounted handles; manual overrides for when you want old-school control; and built-in battery packs, no electrical work required. Another option is Kohler's Wellspring, a hands-free-only faucet that's installed next to your existing manual one for use when rinsing a raw fish or chicken. "Just as people set separate cutting boards for meat, you can have separate faucets," says Les Patch, senior product manager for Kohler.

Like those first-generation Apple iPods, these new-fangled faucets are pricey. But as the technology evolves and more manufacturers introduce competing designs, the cost will likely come down.

 

By NATALIE RODRIGUEZTHIS OLD HOUSE MAGAZINE

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1561997,00.html

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Plumbing Danville - From the Ground Up - Plumbing

From the Ground Up: Plumbing

A primer on your pipes and fixtures

 

 Once, state-of-the-art in plumbing was cast-iron drains and brass supply pipes. Now, those materials have been supplanted (for the most part) by PVC plastic, copper, and flexible cross-linked polyethylene, known as PEX. But whether the pipes are plastic, metal, or a combination of the two, it's the plumber's skill that determines how well the system works. A lot is at stake: One leaky joint can cause thousands of dollars worth of damage. An undersize, improperly sloped drain will continually clog. And supply pipes that aren't anchored every 6 feet or so will rattle and thump every time a faucet is turned off.

There's more to proper plumbing than just following the codes and rules. Planning and installing a system that's quiet, efficient, and leak free is something of an art. You'll see it in the way a good plumber arranges pipes and valves for ease of maintenance, avoids wasting material or weakening framing, and takes care to wipe joints clean. "Too bad so much of our good work gets buried," Richard laments. Turn the page for a look at a system that meets his exacting standards. 

The Pipe Network
Clean water enters a house at a pressure of 50-60 psi through the supply lines. Dirty water, pulled down by gravity, exits through the drainpipes, while air coming through the vents keeps the drains flowing smoothly. It's a wonderfully simple and durable setup. Valves may wear, hoses may break, and appliances will fail, but the underlying network of pipes should last as long as the house itself.

Turn Off the Taps
Modern plumbing has made it easier than ever for us to get clean water—and to waste it. "We have to change the mind-set that we can just turn on the water and let it run like Niagara Falls," Richard says. He considers the 1994 law mandating low-flow, 1.6-gallon toilets and 2.5-gallon-per-minute faucets and showerheads a step in the right direction. What about those pre-'94 water-wasters? Refitting them with dams, flow restrictors, and aerator devices can make them as water-efficient as a new fixture, or even more so.

Beyond the Code: rules for better systems

1. Shutoff Valves for Every Fixture and Appliance
Individual shutoffs allow you to quickly isolate a problem without cutting the water supply to the rest of your house. After plumbing a house, Richard always leads the owner in a guided tour of all the shutoff valves, most notably the main shutoffs.

2. Don't Skimp on Vents
Codes dictate the proximity of vents to drains, and the rules should never be ignored. If the vent is too far away, it won't be able to break the vacuum and allow fast drainage. "When you pull the plug on a bathtub," says Richard, "you've got 40 gallons of water that want to scream down that pipe. If there's a vacuum, it can pull the water out of all the traps in the house."

source: from This Old House plumbing expert Richard Trethewey

by Max Alexander
This Old House Magazine

 

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