Plumber East Bay - 10 Uses for a Copper Pipe - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Photo: Mark Weiss

With scrap tubing selling for as much as $4 per pound, copper bits are worth recycling—if you had 'em by the truckload and if gas weren't $4 a gallon. Fortunately, a trip to the scrap yard isn't the only way to give new life to the odd end or fitting left over from your last DIY plumbing job.

1. Hold a roll. Copper gleams as a support for toilet paper. TOH technical editor Mark Powers made the one above out of tubing and various fittings. To keep its sheen, spray it with lacquer.

2. Protect plantings. Solder or caulk a copper cap to one end of a 16-inch-long tube, then drive the other end into the soil to keep the garden hose from dragging over your daylilies.

3. Make a wind chime. Cut various lengths of tube; the longer the piece, the deeper the sound, says Dale Powell of the Copper Development Association. Drill a hole an inch from their tops. Loop fishing line through the openings and hang from a wood disc.

4. Aim high. Connect assorted adapters and elbows to a length of ½-inch tubing to form a hooked staff. Screw a showerhead on the hook end and a garden hose on the other to make a watering wand for drenching hanging baskets.

5. Shim a post. Short offcuts pounded flat make durable outdoor shims. Depending on tubing gauge, shims will range from 1/16 inch to 3/32 inch thick.

6. Deck out a stair. Use 1-inch-diameter pipe instead of wood for balusters. Be sure to follow local codes for spacing. Left in the weather untreated, copper develops a verdigris patina.

7. Clean gutters. Pound flat the last 6 inches of a long length of tubing, then bend the tip to form a 90­degree angle to rake out hard-to-reach muck.

8. Move mountains. Pyramid builders in ancient Egypt transported heavy stones by rolling them over pipe­like cylinders—it works with overfilled trash cans, too.

9. Coax a climber. Make a rot-proof trellis out of tubing and fittings. Mount it on a wall or anchor it in the soil for a freestanding ladder for vines to grow on.

10. Clean up. Duct-tape copper tubing to the end of a vacuum hose to suck spiders from rafters. Don't run the vacuum for more than a few minutes, though, or the increased back pressure caused by the narrow, makeshift extension will strain the motor.

source:  Mark Feirer, This Old House Magazine

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumber Dublin - Easy Fix for a Leaky Toilet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Easy Fix for a Leaky Toilet

Everything should be as reliable as a toilet. It's not unusual for one to last more than 40 years with only a minimal amount of care. But, occasionally, water will begin to leak out from under the toilet and spill onto the floor, which can lead to serious water damage. But this type of leak is easy to diagnose and fix, even if you've never attempted a plumbing repair.

The leak is usually caused when the seal under the toilet fails. Even if this hasn't happened to one of your toilets yet, this "Home Care" is for you. You'll learn how to install a new wax gasket to create a watertight seal between the toilet and the closet flange and install a new flexible water-supply tube.

Finding the Problem
Water pooling around the base of the toilet is a good indication that the wax seal has failed. But in some cases the problem lies elsewhere. Soak up the water from the floor with a sponge and dry off the toilet with a towel. Wait until a new puddle appears on the floor, then check to make sure the water is seeping out from under the toilet and not coming from a loose supply tube, faulty shutoff valve, cracked tank or sweaty bowl.

If water is leaking from beneath the toilet, you might be able to stop it by simply tightening the closet bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Use a putty knife or slotted screwdriver to pry off the caps that are covering the bolts. Then use a wrench to alternately tighten each bolt, a little at a time. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; you can crack the toilet's base.

If you're lucky, the leak will stop. If tightening the bolts doesn't help, you'll have to remove the toilet and replace the wax gasket. 

Removing The Toilet
The first step is to turn off the water at the shutoff valve, which is usually located behind the toilet, or in the basement or crawl space directly below it. Turn the handle all the way in a clockwise direction.

Remove the tank lid, flush the toilet and hold down the handle to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Use a sponge to get up the remaining water in the tank; a small paper cup will help you remove any water left in the bowl.

Next, disconnect the water-supply tube by loosening the compression nut on the shutoff valve (step 1). Pry the caps from the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the nuts (step 2). If either bolt spins as you turn the nut, hold the top of the bolt with needle nose pliers.

Grab the rim of the bowl directly below the seat hinges, and gently rock the toilet back and forth to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet off the floor (step 3) and lay it on a blanket or piece of cardboard. Use a narrow putty knife to scrape off the old wax gasket from the bottom of the toilet and from the closet flange in the floor (step 4).

Check the condition of the flange to make sure it isn't cracked or bent. After we scraped off the wax, we discovered that a large piece of the flange had broken off. If this happens, you can replace the entire flange (no easy task), install a full replacement flange or fill in the missing piece with a repair strap

To install the curved metal strap, first loosen the two screws that secure the flange to the floor. Insert a new closet bolt into the slot in the strap, then slide the strap under the flange (step 5). Tighten the flange screws to lock the strap in place. Install the remaining closet bolt in the flange. If the bolts won't stand upright, pack a little wax from the old gasket around the base of each one.

Take a new wax gasket and set it down on the closet flange, making sure it's perfectly centered (step 6). Most wax gaskets are simply a ring of solid wax, but we used Harvey's Bol-Wax No. 5 (about $5). This one has wax surrounding a core of soft urethane foam, and it easily conforms to the flange and toilet to create a superior seal.

Replacing The Toilet
If the toilet is fitted with an old chrome-plated copper supply tube, consider replacing it with a new flexible one made of stainless steel-enmeshed polymer. It makes the installation a whole lot easier, and it will virtually last forever. We installed a 12-in.-long Fluidmaster supply tube (about $5); other lengths are available ranging from about 8 to 24 in.

Apply a light coating of pipe-joint compound to the fitting at each end of the supply tube, then tighten one end onto the fill-valve shank protruding from the bottom of the toilet tank (step 7).

You're now ready to set the toilet back in place. Grip the bowl near the seat hinges, lift up the toilet and walk it over to the flange. Set the toilet down onto the wax gasket, using the closet bolts as guides. Slip the washers over the bolts and thread on the nuts. However, before tightening them, press down on the rim of the bowl with all your weight to compress the gasket (step 8).

Check to make sure the toilet tank is parallel with the back wall. Alternately tighten each closet bolt until both feel snug. Then, press down on the bowl again and tighten the nuts a little more. Continue in this manner until the nuts no longer feel loose after you press down on the toilet. Again, be careful not to exert too much pressure with the wrench or you'll crack the toilet. Use a hacksaw to cut the closet bolts nearly flush with the nuts (step 9), then snap on the bolt caps.

Your final step is to tighten the loose end of the water-supply tube to the shutoff valve (step 10). Open up the valve and flush the toilet several times. If a leak occurs, press down on the bowl and tighten the nuts a little more. If it isn't leaking, use the toilet for a couple of weeks, then pry off the bolt caps and retighten the nuts. The toilet will often settle after several uses.

The Caulk Question
There's a long-standing debate in the plumbing world over whether you should caulk around the base of a toilet. Most plumbers don't because they're concerned that the caulk would conceal any leaks. However, in some municipalities, the local building code requires homeowners to caulk around the toilet to keep bacteria from growing in the joint.

Check with your building department for the code requirement in your town. If you do decide to caulk, be sure to use a high-quality, mildew proof tub-and-tile caulk.

Step by Step
1. Disconnect the supply tube from the shutoff valve using a wrench. Be sure the valve is closed and the toilet is drained.

2. Pry off the rounded caps that cover the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the hex nuts.

3. Very carefully lift the toilet by the bowl, not the tank, and set it down on an old blanket or cardboard sheet.

4. Scrape off all of the old wax gasket from the closet flange. Note that a section of the flange is broken off.

5. Slide a repair strap under the closet flange after loosening the screws that secure the flange to the floor.

6. Set the new wax gasket down on the closet flange, making sure it's centered. Note: Both closet bolts are in place.

7. Connect the new water-supply tube to the threaded fill-valve shank on the bottom of the toilet tank.

8. Press down on the toilet bowl rim to compress the gasket. Tighten the closet bolts, then press down again.

9. Use a close-quarter hacksaw to trim off the tops of the closet bolts. Tighten the nuts before replacing the caps.

10. Connect the supply tube to the shutoff valve. Then open the valve, flush the toilet and check for leaks.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,202149,00.html
by Merle Henkenius

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Everything should be as reliable as a toilet. It's not unusual for one to last more than 40 years with only a minimal amount of care. But, occasionally, water will begin to leak out from under the toilet and spill onto the floor, which can lead to serious water damage. But this type of leak is easy to diagnose and fix, even if you've never attempted a plumbing repair.

The leak is usually caused when the seal under the toilet fails. Even if this hasn't happened to one of your toilets yet, this "Home Care" is for you. You'll learn how to install a new wax gasket to create a watertight seal between the toilet and the closet flange and install a new flexible water-supply tube.

Finding the Problem
Water pooling around the base of the toilet is a good indication that the wax seal has failed. But in some cases the problem lies elsewhere. Soak up the water from the floor with a sponge and dry off the toilet with a towel. Wait until a new puddle appears on the floor, then check to make sure the water is seeping out from under the toilet and not coming from a loose supply tube, faulty shutoff valve, cracked tank or sweaty bowl.

If water is leaking from beneath the toilet, you might be able to stop it by simply tightening the closet bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Use a putty knife or slotted screwdriver to pry off the caps that are covering the bolts. Then use a wrench to alternately tighten each bolt, a little at a time. Be careful not to apply too much pressure; you can crack the toilet's base.

If you're lucky, the leak will stop. If tightening the bolts doesn't help, you'll have to remove the toilet and replace the wax gasket. 

Removing The Toilet
The first step is to turn off the water at the shutoff valve, which is usually located behind the toilet, or in the basement or crawl space directly below it. Turn the handle all the way in a clockwise direction.

Remove the tank lid, flush the toilet and hold down the handle to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Use a sponge to get up the remaining water in the tank; a small paper cup will help you remove any water left in the bowl.

Next, disconnect the water-supply tube by loosening the compression nut on the shutoff valve (step 1). Pry the caps from the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the nuts (step 2). If either bolt spins as you turn the nut, hold the top of the bolt with needle nose pliers.

Grab the rim of the bowl directly below the seat hinges, and gently rock the toilet back and forth to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet off the floor (step 3) and lay it on a blanket or piece of cardboard. Use a narrow putty knife to scrape off the old wax gasket from the bottom of the toilet and from the closet flange in the floor (step 4).

Check the condition of the flange to make sure it isn't cracked or bent. After we scraped off the wax, we discovered that a large piece of the flange had broken off. If this happens, you can replace the entire flange (no easy task), install a full replacement flange or fill in the missing piece with a repair strap

To install the curved metal strap, first loosen the two screws that secure the flange to the floor. Insert a new closet bolt into the slot in the strap, then slide the strap under the flange (step 5). Tighten the flange screws to lock the strap in place. Install the remaining closet bolt in the flange. If the bolts won't stand upright, pack a little wax from the old gasket around the base of each one.

Take a new wax gasket and set it down on the closet flange, making sure it's perfectly centered (step 6). Most wax gaskets are simply a ring of solid wax, but we used Harvey's Bol-Wax No. 5 (about $5). This one has wax surrounding a core of soft urethane foam, and it easily conforms to the flange and toilet to create a superior seal.

Replacing The Toilet
If the toilet is fitted with an old chrome-plated copper supply tube, consider replacing it with a new flexible one made of stainless steel-enmeshed polymer. It makes the installation a whole lot easier, and it will virtually last forever. We installed a 12-in.-long Fluidmaster supply tube (about $5); other lengths are available ranging from about 8 to 24 in.

Apply a light coating of pipe-joint compound to the fitting at each end of the supply tube, then tighten one end onto the fill-valve shank protruding from the bottom of the toilet tank (step 7).

You're now ready to set the toilet back in place. Grip the bowl near the seat hinges, lift up the toilet and walk it over to the flange. Set the toilet down onto the wax gasket, using the closet bolts as guides. Slip the washers over the bolts and thread on the nuts. However, before tightening them, press down on the rim of the bowl with all your weight to compress the gasket (step 8).

Check to make sure the toilet tank is parallel with the back wall. Alternately tighten each closet bolt until both feel snug. Then, press down on the bowl again and tighten the nuts a little more. Continue in this manner until the nuts no longer feel loose after you press down on the toilet. Again, be careful not to exert too much pressure with the wrench or you'll crack the toilet. Use a hacksaw to cut the closet bolts nearly flush with the nuts (step 9), then snap on the bolt caps.

Your final step is to tighten the loose end of the water-supply tube to the shutoff valve (step 10). Open up the valve and flush the toilet several times. If a leak occurs, press down on the bowl and tighten the nuts a little more. If it isn't leaking, use the toilet for a couple of weeks, then pry off the bolt caps and retighten the nuts. The toilet will often settle after several uses.

The Caulk Question
There's a long-standing debate in the plumbing world over whether you should caulk around the base of a toilet. Most plumbers don't because they're concerned that the caulk would conceal any leaks. However, in some municipalities, the local building code requires homeowners to caulk around the toilet to keep bacteria from growing in the joint.

Check with your building department for the code requirement in your town. If you do decide to caulk, be sure to use a high-quality, mildew proof tub-and-tile caulk.

Step by Step
1. Disconnect the supply tube from the shutoff valve using a wrench. Be sure the valve is closed and the toilet is drained.

2. Pry off the rounded caps that cover the closet bolts, then use a wrench to remove the hex nuts.

3. Very carefully lift the toilet by the bowl, not the tank, and set it down on an old blanket or cardboard sheet.

4. Scrape off all of the old wax gasket from the closet flange. Note that a section of the flange is broken off.

5. Slide a repair strap under the closet flange after loosening the screws that secure the flange to the floor.

6. Set the new wax gasket down on the closet flange, making sure it's centered. Note: Both closet bolts are in place.

7. Connect the new water-supply tube to the threaded fill-valve shank on the bottom of the toilet tank.

8. Press down on the toilet bowl rim to compress the gasket. Tighten the closet bolts, then press down again.

9. Use a close-quarter hacksaw to trim off the tops of the closet bolts. Tighten the nuts before replacing the caps.

10. Connect the supply tube to the shutoff valve. Then open the valve, flush the toilet and check for leaks.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,202149,00.html
by Merle Henkenius

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Plumber San Ramon - How Do I Silence My Toilet - Guaranteed Plumbing Danville

How Do I Silence My Toilet?

Q: "I recently replaced the wax ring under the toilet. Now the water level in the bowl drops and makes a loud glugging sound."

 

When we hear "glugging sound" and "toilet" I think blocked vent. Water can't go down a drain ­unless there's a way to bring in air to replace it, so plumbing drains have vent pipes that go out the roof to draw in fresh air. If a vent is blocked or not connected properly, the vacuum caused by the draining will pull water out of sink traps instead—or the toilet, in your case.

I'm not sure why this is happening now and not before. It's likely not related to your repair, because it's hard to accidentally drop something in the vent from the toilet drain, where you were working. But vent problems can be a bear to diagnose; I'd have a plumber check the vent pipe. He or she might be able to snake it out from the roof. If that doesn't work, more invasive and expensive work might be needed to clear the clog.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,20229893,00.html
by Richard Trethewey

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

San Ramon Plumber - Low-Flow Toilets - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Low-Flow Toilets

A closer look at these water-saving commodes.

 

Contrary to popular myth, plumber Thomas Crapper did not invent the flush toilet. One of his contemporaries, though, did create the first toilet that prevented sewer gases from entering the home. Englishman Joseph Adamson's 1853 design — the siphon flush — eventually made obsolete both the chamber pot and the outhouse. Adamson's invention, like all modern toilets, relies on the tendency of a moving liquid to continue flowing, even in defiance of gravity: The tank is kept full, and during a flush, the water rushes into the bowl, creating a surge over the weir (or dam). The flow stops when the bowl is empty, and the tank refills in preparation for the next flush. Originally, tanks were placed high above the bowl to get water moving forcefully enough to clear the weir, but by 1915, narrower, smoother porcelain passageways allowed quieter, 5- to 7-gallon tanks to be mounted on the backs of bowls. The next giant leap in toilet technology came in 1994, when federal law restricted tanks to 1.6 gallons per flush, but to those who used the first generation of low-flow toilets, this leap seemed more of a stumble. "They often needed two flushes," says This Old House plumbing and heating consultant Richard Trethewey. Manufacturers largely fixed that problem by further modifying the passageways to move a reduced amount of water more vigorously into the bowl.

 

Anatomy of a Low-Flow Toilet

FLUSH LEVER: Pulls the lift chain. LIFT CHAIN:Opens the flapper. A chain float limits the flush to 1.6 gallons by closing the flapper when the tank has drained to a set level. OVERFLOW TUBE: Protects against an accidental overfilling of the tank. FLOAT:Shuts a valve on the supply line when the tank level reaches a predetermined depth. FLAPPER:Releases tank water into the bowl. When released by the chain float, drops against the flush valve seat, sealing the tank so it can refill. TRAP: Holds water in the bowl, blocking the entry of sewer gases, until the flow from the tank pushes the water over the weir. SIPHON JET: Concentrates flow from the tank, jump-starting the siphoning effect. RIM HOLES (not shown): Release water during the flush, cleaning the sides of the bowl.

 By Max Alexander, This Old House Magazine

 

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumber - Outdoor Showers - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Outdoor Showers

A place to rinse off outdoors is a no-brainer for beach dwellers. But it's also great for cleaning up grimy gardeners, sweaty Little Leaguers, and muddy mutts. Here's how to hook up one of your own

 

photo by Julian Wass

You don't have to be shivering in a sandy swimsuit to appreciate an open-air shower. Even landlocked homeowners—stressed-out townies, gritty greenthumbs, suburban soccer dads—are discovering that bathing outdoors is not just practical, it's downright luxurious. That's how architect Howard Backen sees his shower. Every morning, he's out there, lathering up to the sound of birds in his garden and the sight of mountains beyond his home in California's Napa Valley. "It's invigorating when it's cold, it's interesting when it's rainy, and it's incredibly refreshing when it's sunny and hot," he says. Whether the goal is to wash off the day or to commune with nature, there is an outdoor shower for you. The simplest is a foot sprayer hooked to an existing cold-water spigot. The most complicated and expensive is an outdoor shower with cold and hot water, a custom enclosure for privacy, and a built-in changing room for convenience. What's universal about any alfresco shower is that it beckons you outside. And yes, for some, it's also about the exhilaration of being in the backyard in the buff. Here's what you need to know to create the outdoor shower that best suits your naked—or not-so-naked—ambition.

Site Selection
Determining the best location for an outdoor shower depends on how you'll use it. Luke and Allison Babcock put the foot shower at their Sag Harbor, New York, home near the front door so when the couple and their two daughters return from the beach they can spray off the sand before going inside. Others opt for a shower by the pool for a postswim rinse, or close to the back door for the resident athlete just back from a sweaty jog.
The best outdoor showers also take advantage of the natural beauty of the surroundings. For a family in Bridgehampton, N.Y., architect Nick Martin designed a shower with a mahogany enclosure that he situated toward the back of the house to offer views of a rose garden and a farm across the street.

Plumbing can also dictate site. A shower on a deck near the kitchen or bathroom or on a ground-floor patio off the laundry room means you can tap into existing hot- and cold-water lines. One placed in a remote cluster of trees, though appealing, requires digging a trench and running pipe to the destination.

Privacy
When designing your outdoor shower, consider how much you are willing to expose, and account for the feelings of guests or neighbors. "I encourage people to build with the most modest person in mind," says Ethan Fierro, author of The Outdoor Shower. The most straightforward approach is a freestanding folding screen, which works especially well on a multiuse deck where permanent walls can eat up too much space. For an outdoor shower on a rooftop of a client's home in Washington, D. C., architect Kai Tong designed a roll-up bamboo screen that's high enough for a shield but low enough not to block dramatic views of the capital. The most organic approach draws on the landscape, whether a new privet hedge or an existing curtain of trees. Keep in mind that if trees are deciduous, you may have to wait until late spring for sufficient cover.

A custom wood shower enclosure offers privacy plus flexibility to add built-ins and other amenities. To prevent mold and mildew, be sure the space is well ventilated so it completely dries out after every use. Walls should be secured to corner posts and elevated about a foot off the ground to promote air circulation. And if you decide to add a solid roof, attach it only to the posts, leaving open space above the walls. A sunny location like the poolside spot that designer Beau Clowney selected for a client's shower in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina, will also help dry the enclosure.

 

Plumbing
Hook up an outdoor shower much like you would an indoor one. If you want both cold and hot running water, This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey recommends adding a pressure-balance valve to prevent scalding. "And for those who live in four-season climates, by far the biggest concern is having the ability to drain pipes when the temperature drops," cautions Richard; water trapped inside can freeze and crack the pipes. Shutoff valves should be located in the house with pipes traveling on a downward slope. An exposed riser and a showerhead that both unscrew, like the gooseneck model Steve Crandall used in a shower he built in Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains region, ensure that every drop is eliminated.

Drainage is also an issue when the shower is in use. Local building codes vary about the disposal of gray water. But for the most part, outdoor showers simply drain into the ground. A drywell consisting of an earthen pit lined with landscape fabric and filled with gravel can be placed underneath the shower floor to help disperse the flow. More complicated, but required in some locales, is routing wastewater into the sewer system.

Materials
For shower floors, walls, and fixtures, choose weather-resistant materials. Enclosures made of pressure-treated wood, cedar, teak, Brazilian ironwood, even salvaged window shutters will hold up well outside. When buying imported wood, look for FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification, which means the boards were sustainably harvested. Wood is also suitable for floors, but like most decking materials, it should be treated periodically to prevent mildew and fading. A stone floor requires less maintenance, but be sure to get a type that's comfortable under bare feet, such as bluestone or tumbled river rock.

Beau Clowney recommends bronze or copper fixtures because they develop a natural patina as they age. Brass also works well, but avoid anything too shiny, because the gloss will fade. In seaside locations, where salty air can pit most metals, corrosion-resistant stainless steel with a 304 rating is typically the best choice. To keep stainless looking new, wash it down every couple of weeks with warm soapy water, rinse, and then wipe it dry with a soft cloth.

Extras
The amenities you add to your shower will play a big role in how it feels and how frequently you use it. They also add to the price, which ranges from about $200 for a basic hose-connected shower to upward of $20,000 for a lavish bathhouse with a changing area and built-in seating. Among the simplest add-ons are hooks for hanging robes and wet bathing suits, and shelves for shampoo, and extra towels. A slatted teak mat will feel better on your feet than standing directly on a drain. Other options play off the natural setting. Homeowner John Brown used deer antlers as a towel rack in the shower outside his 1920s log cabin in Folly Beach, S.C. And then there are indulgences, such as an oversized rain-style showerhead to amplify the feeling of being out in the elements, outdoor speakers (some are disguised as rocks) to pipe in music, and low-voltage lighting to illuminate an evening shower. But of course, the best amenity of all is nature itself.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,20209468,00.html
by Nancy Beiles, This Old House Magazine

http://www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Orinda Plumber - Buyer's Guide to Kitchen Sinks - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

Buyer's Guide to Kitchen Sinks

How-to improve the only working area used to prepare meals and clean up after them

 

The kitchen may be the heart of the home, but the sink handles most of the daily chores. That's because it's the only working area used to both prepare meals and clean up after them. Although quality sinks can last 15 years or more, they do wear out. Finishes start to dull or chip, and annoying leaks appear mysteriously around the rim and drain. And if you're planning a kitchen remodel, it makes sense to replace your sink and faucet.

Manufacturers offer sinks in a variety of materials and styles, from gleaming stainless steel and durable porcelain on cast iron to several newer materials. Sinks are also one of the lowest-priced components of a kitchen remodel. Although some high-end models carry four-digit price tags, there is a wealth of well-made sinks on the market starting at around $200.

We'll cover buying a quality kitchen sink that won't break your budget and tell you what to look for in a pro installation. We'll also discuss some developments in the faucets section, including the latest styles, colors and features, and the companies that offer them.

Sink Size Vs. Kitchen Size?
With so many options — single bowls to multiple bowls of different sizes, shapes and depths — you need to consider the size of the room and how you'll use the sink. Large multi-basin models, which are popular right now, will overpower a small kitchen.

The National Kitchen & Bath Association, an industry trade group, suggests a standard 22X24-in. single-bowl model for kitchens less than 150 sq. ft. (the bowl itself measures about 16X21 in.). For larger kitchens, you can consider the added convenience of double and triple bowls that allow you to stack the dishes in one bowl while you rinse off vegetables in the other. Multi-bowl models start at about $200, and you'll pay 5 to 10 percent more for sinks with bowls of different depths.

Many designers specify one main sink and a smaller bar sink for large kitchens. Don't go for a second sink unless there are two or more cooks in the house who prepare meals at the same time. Even then, you'll have to determine if the plumbing upgrade and the $400 or so for the sink and faucet are worth it.

Whatever size and bowl configuration you choose, you'll also need to select the type of mounting you want. This is both an esthetic and a practical decision as described above.

You'll also need to specify the number of holes in the sink deck. This number will range from one to five, depending on the faucet and the number of accessories like spray hoses and soap dispensers you add.

Still another consideration is color. A colorful sink can be a nice accent, but remember you'll typically pay 15 to 40 percent more for anything other than white.

Finally, don't be surprised that your new sink doesn't include a drain strainer; it costs extra. A good one in stainless steel runs $10 to $15. Match the strainer to the sink; those designed for stainless sinks aren't long enough for cast-iron sinks.

You'll be living with your new sink for a long time, so choose carefully. A well-made sink will last as long as you need it and maintain its good looks as well.

 

Faucets: Combining Style and Function

In most cases, you'll want to replace the faucet along with the sink. If you spend at least $125 and stick with a well-known manufacturer, you're assured of quality. You'll also get nearly lead-free water delivery. A recent change in federal law now restricts the lead your sink can contribute to no more than 11 parts per billion. So what should you be thinking about? Style, finish and features.

What's hot: Single-handled models with pull-out spouts are getting the most attention. They come in different finishes, and are convenient for cleaning produce as well as the sink. Spouts with stainless-steel hoses kink less than others, and start at about $325. Faucets with water filters built into the spout, like Moen's Pure-Touch (below, $450) and Price Pfister's Pfilter Pfaucet, are hot, too. Pot fillers — cold-water taps on long swing-out arms installed near your range or cooktop — are also growing in popularity. They cost about $150, plus the cost of running the new water line.

As for finishes, chrome remains the most popular. It's durable, easy to clean and versatile. Lifetime finishes such as Moen's Lifeshine and Delta's Brilliance have also made polished-brass finishes much easier to live with. These finishes stand up to abrasive cleaners and eliminate spotting. Satin-nickel finishes are another increasingly popular option. "They're warm and soft, and blend in with just about everything," says Oklahoma City designer Faye Norton.

Features: Once you decide on a style and finish, look for the following: 1. Washer less operation: This term lumps together ball, cartridge and ceramic-disk valves. Ceramic-disk valves are likely to last longest, particularly if your water is hard or has lots of sediment. But all three should be trouble-free for years and are relatively easy to repair if necessary.

2. A long spout: If your sink has three bowls, opt for a 12- to 14-in.-long spout.

A spout that swivels at least 180 degrees, especially when buying a multi-bowl sink. You'll need that flexibility to reach the different bowls.

Mounting Choices
The plumbing for a new sink is fairly straightforward — there's not a lot of choice involved. But how and where the sink is attached to the countertop is a decision you'll need to make before you order your new basin.

Self-rimming sinks (see image 2) are easiest to install; most take about an hour. Lighter sinks, such as stainless-steel or composite models, are secured to the counter with clips and screws. Heavy cast-iron sinks are held in place by their weight.

A few stainless-steel and enamel-on-steel sinks are held in place by a separate steel rim (see image 3). However, you wind up with two seams where muck can accumulate.

Under mount sinks (see image 4) are popular because they're sleek looking, make wiping off the counters into the sink a breeze and allow you to combine bowls of different shapes and sizes. However, under mounts often take at least twice the time to install as self-rimming models. They also require solid materials, such as granite or solid surfacing, since the counter material is exposed.

Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,219963-3,00.html
by Fran J. Donegan

Plumber San Ramon - How to Replace an Old Faucet - Guaranteed Plumbing Co. Danville

How to Replace an Old Faucet

 

Steps:
1. Turn off water and remove the garbage disposer, if necessary.
2. Cut old copper water supply lines using a close-quarter hacksaw; catch any water dripping out in a bucket.
3. Use a basin wrench to loosen the nuts holding the old faucet in place; remove old faucet.
4. Apply a bead of plumber's putty under the mounting flange of the new faucet.
5. Set faucet's mounting flange on the sink deck, then tighten the two nuts from below with a basin wrench or wrench that comes with the faucet.
6. Use a propane torch to unsolder the old shut-off valves from the hot- and cold-water copper pipes (risers).
7. Buff clean the ends of the risers with emery cloth to remove old solder and grime.
8. Install the new shut-off valves onto the ends of the risers; tighten the compression fittings with two open-end wrenches.
9. Place the faucet on the mounting flange, then from below install the mounting plate and tighten the brass nut with the special wrench provided.
10. Connect the spray hose to the underside of the faucet by snapping on the spring clip.
11. Use a screwdriver to tighten the weight onto the spray hose.
12. Using a bending spring, bend the rigid lav supply line to reach from the valve to the underside of the faucet.
13. Use two open-end wrenches to tighten the nuts that connect each supply line to the shut-off valves and faucet.
14. Turn water back on, test for leaks.

by Richard Trethewey
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20238414,00.html