Plumber Danville - Should You Drain Your Water Heater - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

Should You Drain Your Water Heater?

I've read a lot of water heater installation manuals, and they all give the same advice on water heater maintenance, but most people don't do any type of maintenance on their water heaters, period. Today I'm going to go over the routine maintenance that water heater manufacturers recommend, and I'll throw in my two cents. My take on water heater maintenance should be much more interesting than reading the installation manual.

Flush the water heater

Every month (yes, every month) you're supposed to flush some water out of the bottom of your tank. There's a drain valve at the bottom of the water heater tank that can be opened to allow water to drain out. You don't need to literally drain the water out of the water heater, just open the valve and let some water come out; Rheem says a few quarts is fine.
If you want to really flush out the bottom of the water heater tank, you could attach a garden hose and let a bunch of water flow through. This water is constantly being replaced by the cold water coming in to the water heater, so you don't even need to have a floor drain close by if you have a long enough garden hose.
If the drain valve leaks when you're done, don't worry. The cheap, easy, and effective repair is to screw a garden hose cap on to the end of the drain valve. This is a perfectly safe and perfectly acceptable repair.
The reason for flushing the water heater is to help prevent the accumulation of sediment on the bottom of the tank. As sediment collects in the bottom of the water heater tank over the years, it will begin to surround and insulate the thermostat, which can lead to the water heater running for longer and longer periods of time, which will decrease the life of the water heater and lead to eratic water temperatures. I'm pretty sure this is why most water heater manufacturers don't actually publish the water temperature on their control valves.
So there's the what and the why... and now my two cents. I don't drain my own water heater. It seems like a pain in the butt, and I'm not convinced that doing this will actually help to extend the life of my water heater. I know it's anecdotal evidence, but just last year I came across a used water heater sitting out in someone's garage for disposal while doing a home inspection in Champlin. The water heater was installed in 1998 and failed approximately 12 years later. For the record, water heaters typically come with 6, 9, or 12 year warranties. What made this so juicy was that there was a chart on the water heater that the owner had diligently filled out every time he drained the water heater... but the water heater still failed after 12 years. Even though the owner hadn't drained the water heater every month I would have thought this would have helped out at least a little more.
Just for this blog, I hooked up a garden hose to the drain valve on my water heater and flushed some water out. After about three seconds, the valve itself started leaking extremely hot water out all over me. I quickly closed the valve and decided not to flush the water heater again.
If you have a new water heater and you're a diligent homeowner, go ahead and flush your tank every month. If you have a water heater that's several years old and has never been flushed, I've heard it's better to just leave it alone.

Test the pressure relief valve

Every year, the temperature and pressure relief valve is supposed to be opened to allow several gallons of water to drain out. Doing this will help to clear out sediment accumulation, and will let you know that the valve still operates freely.

The problem with this test is that the valve may not close properly after it gets opened. The older the water heater, the greater potential you have for a leaking valve. If the valve leaks after this test, it can be replaced. Temperature and pressure relief valves sell for about $10 - $15, and they're fairly easy to replace.

Check the Anode Rod

Every year, the sacrificial anode rod is supposed to be checked for deterioration and replaced if neccessary. The purpose of the anode rod is to save the rest of the water heater from destruction by sacrificing itself. Hey, maybe they should call it a Jesus rod ;). I don't remember much from chemistry, but I found this text at by doing a quick google search:

Cathodic protection is a scheme in which a piece of reactive metal, typically magnesium, is connected to the steel to form an electrochemical cell. Magnesium ions (Mg2+) form more easily than iron ions and enough electrons are given up by the magnesium atoms as they become positive ions to completely dominate the hydroxide ion formation process. With nowhere for their electrons to go, the iron atoms can't become iron ions and rusting can't proceed. As long as the magnesium metal, often called the "sacrificial anode", remains intact and connected to the steel, the steel won't rust significantly.

Wonderful. I don't quite follow, but the bottom line is that once the anode rod is badly deteriorated, the rest of the water heater will follow. Replacing the anode rod when needed is supposed to go a long way toward extending the life of the water heater.
To check the anode rod, you'll need to start by turning off the water supply to the water heater, and draining a few inches of water out of the tank. Now you just need to locate the thing on the top of the water heater that looks like a hex head plug - see the photo at right; that's the top of the anode rod. Get a 1 1/16" socket wrench (yes, this is a standard size), unscrew the anode rod, and pull it out of the water heater to inspect it. Once there is more than six inches of core showing at the anode rod, it's time to replace it.
There are four problems you might run in to if you want to check on / replace your anode rod:

1. Most homeowners in Minneapolis and Saint Paul don't have enough ceiling height in the basement to pull the anode rod out. If that's the case, they'd actually need to completely drain and un-install the water heater and lay it on it's side to check on the anode rod.
2. Most homeowners don't own a 1-1/16" socket wrench.
3. It will probably require an impact wrench to get this thing out. I tried getting mine out, but it's in there so tight that the water heater actually started to turn, and I didn't have a second person to help me hold the water heater steady. If you want to see just how tough it is, check out this video - changing a water heater anode rod.
4. Water heater anode rods aren't readily available at local home improvement stores - the Menards and Home Depot by my house don't sell them, but the Hardware Hank in Maple Grove does. They had two in stock - one long one, and one short one.

Sorry to be cynical, but checking on and replacing an anode rod is too difficult. When the manufacturers make it just about impossible to do this step that's supposed to dramatically increase the life of your appliance... of course nodody is going to do it. What incentive does the manufacturer have in making this step easy?
By the way, if you do happen to replace your anode rod, I've heard you're supposed to save the old magnesium rod for Independance Day. That's just what I've heard. Good times.

source  Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections

Alamo Plumber - Identifying Plumbing Problems with a Sewer Pipe Camera - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

Why This Plumbing Diagnostic Tool is Worthwhile for Most Homeowners

For people who are connected to the city sewer system, the biggest problems with plumbing occur when tree roots grow into a pipe. In the past, a plumber would snake out the line, eliminating the problem, but not the cause. Now, by using a sewer pipe camera, a homeowner can see what's really going on and if a pipe is cracked and should be replaced.
A sewer pipe camera looks like a snake and functions very similarly. On the tip there is a small infrared camera that transmits a video feed of the interior of the pipe. A plumber can then look at the sewer camera feed and determine what the problem is and the best method of fixing it. Best of all, the camera should indicate exactly where the problem occurs, allowing the plumber to only repair that small part of the pipe.
In the past if your plumbing was clogged, you would call a sewer contractor. The contractor would come and snake out the line, grinding any roots or clogs up into small enough pieces to pass through the system. However, if roots were in your pipes, that meant that your pipes had a crack in them, making the need for snaking out your pipes to be at least a yearly occurrence. By using a camera, you can take steps to eliminate the problem the first time it occurs.
Using a sewer pipe camera can also protect you from an unscrupulous plumber who would try to sell you more than what is necessary to fix your sewer problem. However, there have been horror stories of plumbers using someone else's video to convince a homeowner to alter their plumbing. To protect yourself against this trickery, insist on watching the live feed from the pipe camera.
A sewer pipe camera is a helpful piece of equipment, but not every plumber uses one, If you would like to use a one to diagnose your plumbing problem, be sure to ask about one before you choose a plumber. Also keep in mind that a plumber may charge you to use a pipe camera as a diagnostic tool, making it more costly to figure out your plumbing problem.
Despite these drawbacks, a sewer pipe camera will allow you and the plumber to understand precisely what is going on with your sewer system. So if you feel as though your sewer system is constantly under repair, make the commitment to fix the problem once and for all by taking a look with a sewer pipe camera.

source Amy Whittle, Yahoo Contributor Network

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Danville Plumber - Tips for Removing a Grease Clog in a Drain - Guaranteed Plumbing Co

Grease is not good to put down a drain but in the event that some grease went down the drain and caused a clog to happen you may be able to warm the grease up enough to get the drain open again. Grease melts pretty easy so you need to heat up the drain in the spot that is clogged.
One way to try and get a drain unclogged is to dip out any water that is standing in the sink. Then carefully take a pot of boiling water and dump it slowly onto the drain opening. Let the hot water sit in the sink and soon the hot water may open the clogged drain so that the drain is free and open again.
You can also take a heating pad and wrap the heating pad around the drain pipe under the sink. Put the heating pad in the spot that you think is clogged. A good spot is where the drain curves. Turn the heating pad on and let it get the drain hot. Soon if it works right the drain will open up and the clog will be gone. Flush the drain with some hot water to get the clog running out of the drain.
A hair drier can be held on the drain to heat up the drain. Hold the hair drier so it is heating up the drain pipe. Keep the hair drier pointed at the drain until the drain pipes get hot. Hopefully the grease will melt and the drain will open up. After you heat up the drain flush it with hot water to rinse down the grease.
Heating up the drain pipe may not unclog a drain. It will help open up the drain from a grease clog but the drain may be clogged by something else. Or you may have heated up the drain in the wrong spot if the drain does not unclog when you heat it up.
You can also try to open the clogged drain with a plunger. A combination of heat and plunging may also get the drain to open up.
If you can't get the drain opened you will need to call a plumber to help get the drain pipe open. It won't hurt to try to open the clogged drain yourself by heating up the drain pipe. If the pipes are made of plastic be careful you don't melt the plastic piping.

source: Donna Daniels - Yahoo Contributor Network

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Plumbing East Bay - The Facts On Faucets - Guaranteed Plumbing Danville

Three signs that your old bath faucets are treading water: Their finish is dull or pitted. They still drip even after you repair them. Or, their style looks dated with the bath remodel you're planning.
If that describes your faucets, get ready for a sea of replacement options. Stores are filled with quality $100 lav faucets with five-year warranties and others that take care of the needs of older users, tub faucets tough enough for a house full of teens and multihead shower walls that make you feel like you just stepped under a tropical waterfall. Making things tougher is that you'll also find poor-quality pretenders that glitter as brightly as top-of-the-line models.
Picking a style you like is the easy part of buying a new faucet. The harder questions are: What material and finish were used in the faucet you like? Will they last and still be easy to clean? If there is a problem, how difficult and expensive are repairs? In other words, which faucet will give you the style and service for what you want to spend?
TESTING THEIR METALS
Aside from style and features, what separates good lav, tub or shower faucets from the not-so-good is the material they're made of. Start by checking out the body, which encompasses the spout and controls. Solid-brass bodies last longest and require the least care, especially with hard water, which corrodes lesser metals. At $150 or so to start, these faucets also cost the most. If you aren't sure whether a fitting is solid brass, pick it up. It should feel heavier than other units. Often, the box will read "all-brass body" versus "ZMACK" for brass- or chrome-plated fittings.
Faucets with die-cast zinc-alloy bodies cost less (typically starting at about $70) and deliver good durability. Zinc is the metal beneath most brass- and chrome-plated fittings. Because zinc corrodes when it contacts water, these faucets must be replaced when the plating wears off. Stay away from low-end faucets with plastic bodies. Though their $50 entry price might be appealing, plastic simply doesn't hold up.
Finish is another crucial choice that determines not only how a faucet looks but also how easy it is to maintain. An electroplated chrome finish on a brass or zinc faucet looks good and lasts. If you opt for the warmth of natural brass, you'll avoid frequent cleanings with one of the proprietary lifetime finishes that block out oxidation. Examples of these finishes include Delta Brilliance, Moen LifeShine and Jado Diamond.
Pewter, nickel and satin finishes are also easy to maintain. Their muted tones hide water spots, scratches and fingerprints. They also match door and cabinet handles more easily than brass. Chrome and combination chrome-and-brass finishes are popular for baths but require frequent cleaning to maintain their shine.
With a spectrum of colors available, going with painted or enamel finishes is the easiest way to individualize a faucet and coordinate it with the rest of the bath. But because most of these finishes aren't bonded to the metal like plating, they chip and scratch relatively easily. Save them for less-used powder rooms and guest baths.

PICKING A LAV FAUCETIf you're replacing only the faucets and not the sink, you have to know which size unit to buy. Start by removing the existing faucet and measuring the distance, or spread, between the holes in the lavatory. Small lavs often have three holes that span 4 in.; they accommodate faucets that consist of a spout and separate handles connected by an escutcheon plate. Your new faucet must be configured the same way. The same holds for single-handle faucets and some two-handle units mounted in a single hole. Lavs with holes 6-, 8- or 12-in. spreads have separate handles and offer more replacement options.
Next, consider who will use the faucet; this factor determines the style you choose as well as the inner workings you opt for.
How many handles. Look for a single-handle faucet or one with lever handles for older users or anyone who has trouble turning round knobs. Also look for an "ADA Approved" (Americans With Disabilities Act) label. If you opt for round knobs, look for ones with rotational limit stops, which take just a quarter turn to open and close the valve inside.
Small children have different needs. "When children step up to the sink, they usually reach for one handle or the other. You hope it's the cold one," says Dale Archer, technical service manager for Hansgrohe, a Cumming, Georgia-based faucet manufacturer. The company suggests single-handle faucets for kids; these aren't likely to be in the full-hot position.
You can also find single-handle models that let you adjust the flow mechanism to limit the amount of hot water available
.
What kind of valve. Control valves open and close water flow inside the faucet body when you move a handle or twist a knob. There are four kinds, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.
Traditional two-handle faucets use compression valves, which control water flow with a rubber washer. Hard water and overtightening wear the washer, eventually causing leaks. However, the valve is easy to access, while washers cost only pennies to replace.
Sleeve-cartridge valves are used in one- and two-handle faucets. Because all the working parts are contained in a single unit that lifts out quickly, sleeve-cartridge valves are easiest to repair. Each company has a different sleeve design, so be sure the replacement parts match your faucet. Replacements cost $10 to $20. Choose brass cartridges over plastic, if possible.
Ball valves are exclusive to single-handle faucets. Introduced by Delta in 1954, they use a slotted-metal or plastic ball and spring-loaded seals to control flow. These systems are very durable and inexpensive to repair. But their many small parts make assembly difficult. Stick with metal ball valves and replacement kits (about $10), which hold up better than plastic ball valves.
Ceramic-disk valves are considered the best by many experts. A two-part revolving disk turns water on and off depending on the alignment of its ports. Replacing the self-contained disk is fast and easy (about $15 to $20). And because the disk is impervious to sand and sediment, this is the system to choose if your water has lots of either. If impurities aren't a problem, other systems should be fine.

Whichever control valve you consider, check the warranty. It's a good indication of how long the manufacturer expects the valve to last.

source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,214006,00.html
By: Jheri Fleet

www.guaranteedplumbingco.com

Danville Plumbing - How hot should I set my water heater - Guaranteed Plumbing Co Danville

How hot should I set my water heater

One can practice both safety and economy by keeping water temperature at doctor approved levels. Very hot water temperature can cause burns with great rapidity, and as such, care in setting your hot water heater is required. Setting the hot water temperature lower also means a savings in energy bills for heating the home's water in many cases. However, a lower temperature does mean you will run out of hot water more quickly.
Most experts recommend that hot water temperature should not exceed 125° F (51.66° C). A water temperature exceeding this poses serious risk of bad burns, particularly to children. In fact even at 125° F, if the child puts his or her hand in the water continuously for two minutes he or she may get second or third degree burns.
Some pediatricians instead suggest setting the hot water temperature at 120° F (48.88° C). With this water temperature, a child would have to run water over the same place for ten minutes prior to receiving a severe burn.
Temperatures higher than 125° F can burn a child, or an adult quite severely, and quite quickly. For example, it is estimated that it takes only two seconds of exposure to water at 150° F (65.55° C) and only six seconds of exposure to water at 140° F (60° C) to cause a very bad burn to a child.

source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-the-safest-temperature-settings-for-a-hot-water-heater.htm

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Guaranteed Plumbing Danville - How long should your hot water heater last

How Long Should Your Hot Water Heater Last?

Depending on the internal quality of parts in water heater and whether you have followed maintenance schedule of draining and flushing the tank every year. You can expect a hot water heater to last between 8 to12 years

Water heater problems normally become self-evident: A hot water faucet fails to summon hot water, you see dripping or puddles near the water heater, or the tank emits strange gurgling or popping sounds. These are a few warning signs telling you when your hot water heater needs replacing.

It would be nice to know before your water heater springs a leak and causes an inconvenience or worse yet damage to your home. If you determine you have some of the early warning signs you will have time to review your choices of sizes and models and choose a qualified installer rather than rushing to find a replacement water heater on a Friday afternoon or worse on a weekend.

Here are some signs that you may be ready for a new hot water heater;

• AGE: On average, your gas hot water heater should last anywhere between 8 to 12 years, while an electric model will last a bit longer at 10 to 15 years.
• WATER: When you use your hot water tap, does the water look a bit tinted? If so, there may be rust in your water heater, which is a possible indicator your hot water heater is showing signs of wear and may start to leak.
• GURGLING or POPPING: These noises are caused by the buildup of hard water sediment heating up and exploding inside your water heater tank.
• MOISTURE: Look around the base of your hot water heater for dampness for this may be a symptom of a slow or intermittent leak.
• COLD WATER: An unexpected cold shower is not only bad way to start your day, but of a hot water heater that needs to be checked out.
• PUDDLES: It’s time to call your plumber and look into replacing your water heater ASAP!

source: http://www.crisbro.com/blog/2011/12/27/how-long-should-your-hot-water-heater-last/

www.guaranteedplumbingco.com